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If I open my doors lights come on . Put the key and turn to acc 1 click over dash lights off . MPG has a slight glow ..open door same Key position door switch will illuminate dash light will not appear lit until turning on the night rider lights lol or the heads lights...So what’s going on with your car exactly ?
Key out lights will remain off if u open door prior to having shut off heads lights ..close door wait about 2 seconds. Open door lights illuminate again ...turn on lights turn off again light remain off with door open on the dash .
Test the pins with the ignition on see what voltage Your pulling on your illumination wires it just can’t be all that hard to figure out
Last edited by Speedy007; Aug 22, 2020 at 03:31 PM.
If I open my doors lights come on . Put the key and turn to acc 1 click over dash lights off . MPG has a slight glow ..open door same Key position door switch will illuminate dash light will not appear lit until turning on the night rider lights lol or the heads lights...So what’s going on with your car exactly ?
Key out lights will remain off if u open door prior to having shut off heads lights ..close door wait about 2 seconds. Open door lights illuminate again ...turn on lights turn off again light remain off with door open on the dash .
Test the pins with the ignition on see what voltage Your pulling on your illumination wires it just can’t be all that hard to figure out
Thanks
I used to have a ‘03 so I know how it should function - I tried to make a video but was unsuccessful in loading it on here. I have not removed the instrument cluster from the dash.
Lol at my age some of this stuff is just plain difficult -
I guess I was hoping someone else has had this same problem and had a solution.
My car is in very good condition and I realize even a brand new cars can develop issues - with as many C5 Corvettes out there I know there are others out there.
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Over 300 hits on this - I wish there were more comments - especially any links that can repair the instrument cluster unit would be nice.
It was previously suggested that the UV fluorescent bulbs or their high voltage power supply could be at fault, but that doesn't seem to be the case because the IPC illumination correctly works with Parking Lights ON and Headlights ON. If either one of those components were defective, you wouldn't have IPC lights at all.
I've been trying to find an schematic for the UV lights circuit, but so far unsuccessfully. As you know, the UV lights can be triggered in more than one way and we need to track down the path for the modes that are not working.
It would be great if someone could locate this(these) schematic(s) and post them here.
I guess my goal is the eliminate any issues that could cause this lighting problem going to the instrument cluster - once this is done then I can search for a vendor that repair the instrument cluster unit.
The schematic attacheded to Post 6, is for the Courtesy Lamps Circuit and it doesn't include the UV bulbs. As mentioned above, we need the schematic for the UV lights and its power supply to check the triggering path for the modes that are not working.
Without that schematic we're blind. In the meantime, and I know it's a long shot, perhaps it could be the MFS. It's a known point of failure and among its multiple functions, it signals the IPC illumination to go ON when Parking Lights and Headlights are switched ON. Although those functions are fine, it's possible that when it returns to its OFF position something doesn't make contact as it should.
I'm just mentioning this to give you some food for thought. I rather prefer to have the schematics to be able to analyze them before proceeding.
The schematic attacheded to Post 6, is for the Courtesy Lamps Circuit and it doesn't include the UV bulbs. As mentioned above, we need the schematic for the UV lights and its power supply to check the triggering path for the modes that are not working.
Without that schematic we're blind. In the meantime, and I know it's a long shot, perhaps it could be the MFS. It's a known point of failure and among its multiple functions, it signals the IPC illumination to go ON when Parking Lights and Headlights are switched ON. Although those functions are fine, it's possible that when it returns to its OFF position something doesn't make contact as it should.
I'm just mentioning this to give you some food for thought. I rather prefer to have the schematics to be able to analyze them before proceeding.
I’ve only owned this car for a couple months so I know nothing about it’s history, but I doubt that both UV bulbs could burn out together - but I will admit I know nothing about how the UV system works. Question: what are MFS & IPS mean - also if the alternator was weak could this have any affect on my problem - thanks for the help.
I’ve only owned this car for a couple months so I know nothing about it’s history, but I doubt that both UV bulbs could burn out together - but I will admit I know nothing about how the UV system works. Question: what are MFS & IPS mean - also if the alternator was weak could this have any affect on my problem - thanks for the help.
As I mentioned in Post 25 above, both, your UV bulbs and the high voltage power supply that feeds them, should be fine. Otherwise you wouldn't have IPC illumination with Parking Lights ON and Headlights ON.
MFS (Multi Function Switch) is the lever that activates the turn signals, parking lights, headlights, etc.
IPC is the instruments cluster.
The alternator shouldn't have anything to do with your reported problem.
The schematic attacheded to Post 6, is for the Courtesy Lamps Circuit and it doesn't include the UV bulbs. As mentioned above, we need the schematic for the UV lights and its power supply to check the triggering path for the modes that are not working.
Without that schematic we're blind. In the meantime, and I know it's a long shot, perhaps it could be the MFS. It's a known point of failure and among its multiple functions, it signals the IPC illumination to go ON when Parking Lights and Headlights are switched ON. Although those functions are fine, it's possible that when it returns to its OFF position something doesn't make contact as it should.
I'm just mentioning this to give you some food for thought. I rather prefer to have the schematics to be able to analyze them before proceeding.
Hey guys help us out - we need this schematic - I’m sure there’s other people with the same issue that I have - thanks
Our friends at Batee.com were helpful yesterday - said we need the UV wiring to get a better idea what’s the the possible problem is. May be an issue before power gets to the instrument cluster or it could be the UV tubes, or it could be the high power box - all items that are no longer available.
Our friends at Batee.com were helpful yesterday - said we need the UV wiring to get a better idea what’s the the possible problem is...
I tried to find the corresponding schematic(s) with no luck. Waiting to see if someone is finally able to find it and post it here.
Originally Posted by BLUDICE
...May be an issue before power gets to the instrument cluster or it could be the UV tubes, or it could be the high power box - all items that are no longer available.
In my opinion, it's probably a triggering issue from the 2 modes that are not working.
As I mentioned in Post 25 and Post 31 above, both, your UV bulbs and the high voltage power supply that feeds them, should be fine. Otherwise you wouldn't have IPC illumination with Parking Lights ON and Headlights ON.
I am digging through GM Service Information trying to find the wiring diagram for the UV IPC lights ... so far no luck but not done looking yet
Gonna call it a night.
So far what I can find is the door latch switch in an input to the Driver Door Module AND to the Body Control Module. This era of GM vehicles had the BCM starting to control everything in the vehicle so I suspect that the BCM is sending a signal to the IPC when the driver door opens. The IPC lighting controller for the UV lights has it's own built in logic and handles it all from there. No wiring diagram just yet ...
Last edited by abflyboy; Sep 1, 2020 at 11:23 PM.
Reason: edit to add
I think it’s all in your ambient light sensors that little clear piece at the top right hand side of your dash universe the buttons...it’s not functioning correctly.
I think it’s all in your ambient light sensors that little clear piece at the top right hand side of your dash universe the buttons...it’s not functioning correctly.
Removing the dash anyways is a breeze ....should only take maybe a good hour to wiggle it out slowly.
Remove A - pillar , 4 screws, 4 more screws underneath pop the under on the cluster free disconnect the harnessing and your just about home free .. replace dash or repair ....
I tried to find the corresponding schematic(s) with no luck. Waiting to see if someone is finally able to find it and post it here.
