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Well,,,,,,, If you are talking about the receiver for the FOB & Tire Pressure Sensors (Remote Function Actuator RFA) (which is behind the plastic trim cover above the drivers wheel well) the answer would be YES.
Its a module that is connected to the car via the serial data buss. It requires 12 VDC Power and a chassis ground. If the module has the proper power and proper ground and is properly connected to the serial data buss, it should work. I would start by reading the DTCs and posting what DTCs you have. If the module doesn't function, you can open the module and do the basic circuit board and input pin inspection. Board should be clean and corrosion clean. Each solder joint should be clean and crack free. Especially around the module connector pins. Antenna connections inside should be secure. - Make sure that you use a DC Voltmeter and Ohm Meter and check for power and ground at the connector for that module.
NOTE! Check the harness connector female pins to see if they are in good condition. They can get:
- Corroded
- Female pins can spread apart and make a poor connection on the male pins.
If all that is good, the module can be bad.
If you read the C5 DTCs using the cars built in Diagnostic Code Reading software, what DTC are you seeing? Especially for that module!
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Oct 16, 2020 at 02:32 PM.
yes sorry, i remote control door lock receiver.
My Fobs work erratically and only unlock the drivers door. TPMS sensors which are new and tested are only registering the left rear, which as i understand it is the closest to the receiver.
It's beyond me why GM would cease production on a known issue part for one of their so called "flagship" vehicles.
I've got barely 45000 Km.s on this car and shouldn't be having any electrical issues whatsoever (HVAC display, door lock modules, )
I wonder if the never models are any better given that they have even more electronics.
Start with the basics. There are NUMEROUS things that can cause this issue. Start by clearing ALL of DTCs that you have. Then read the DTCs and see what new DTCs come back and post them.
Try locking and unlocking the car and then read the DTCs again and posting what comes back.
Post all the DTCs including the "H" and or "C" suffix after the DTC - Example BCM B-2134 H or RFA B-2211 H C or PCM P-0233 H or U-0100 ect ect
yes sorry, i remote control door lock receiver.
My Fobs work erratically and only unlock the drivers door. TPMS sensors which are new and tested are only registering the left rear, which as i understand it is the closest to the receiver.
It's beyond me why GM would cease production on a known issue part for one of their so called "flagship" vehicles.
I've got barely 45000 Km.s on this car and shouldn't be having any electrical issues whatsoever (HVAC display, door lock modules, )
I wonder if the never models are any better given that they have even more electronics.
I wouldn't bet on the newer electronics being better. Even if they are, they're a lot more complex. I love my C5, but I've learned GM doesn't much care about our car problems. All they DO care about is selling us a new Corvette. Good luck with your problem. Bill C is a smart guy. If you like beer, go with Bud or Michelob. If you have electrical problems, C5 Diag and Bill C. are two of the best to see......
10-PCM No codes
28-TCS U1016 H
40-BCM B2723 H
58-SDM No codes
60-IPC No codes
80-Radio No codes
AO-LDCM B2262 H
A1-RDCM B2265 H
A6-SCM No codes
BO-RFA No codes
NO MORE CODES
Hmmmmm,, I don't really see any specific DTCs that would point to a specific cause for your issues. If you clear ALL the DTCs and then try to use the FOBs, (without turning off the ignition switch, read the DTCs after you experience a failure and see what pops up.
How many times have you tried to relearn the Tire pressure sensors?
What magnet are you using and where are you placing it on the wheel?
What procedures are you using to retrain or learn the FOBs?
Does the passengers door lock and unlock from the passengers side buttons?
relearn was done at a tire shop i work with on a regular basis with a proper programing device. all sensors were working perfectly last summer before putting it away for the winter. car is stored in unheated, dry garage under cover with battery tender plugged in and attached all the time.
last retrain was done by the dealer as a favour but i'll try again myself over the weekend.I'll clear the codes as well and check again.
passenger unlocks from side button but wont lock, has to be done manually,
If you have OEM Schrader Brand sensors, all you need is a decent magnet to relearn the TPS. I place the magnet on the inside rim of the wheel just inboard of the stem. That's where the body of the sensor lives. The magnet closes a reed switch in the sensor and wakes it up so it can transpond to the RFA. The RFA in turn receives the signal and sends a digital message thru the serial data buss to the BCM, The BCM sends the data to the IPC via the same serial data buss. If one sensor is transponding, the others should if they are working., If you can receive the FOB signals, the RFA is also working.
I believe that you are having a RDCM issue in that the relays on the board are not functioning. I would start by shaking the rubber accordion tube with a vigor and see if that changes the symptoms. The six pin power connector that attaches to the door may be having connection issues. (VERY COMMON) Shaking that harness inside the rubber tube may change the symptoms. See if that makes a difference.
Yep, see if relearning the FOBs using the FOB re learn routine in the DIC does anything also.
reprogrammed FOB"s using the dashboard info centre. replaced original #1 with new OEM fob, seems the old fob was the problem... i should've compared it to FOB 2 as it's pretty much never been used. Now everything works fine now except the passanger door won't lock with the fob or with the door switch. Unlocks fine either way but won't lock except by hand. I'm guessing the door module is my next point of attack.
Yep,, The relay on the board is most likely the issue. Some people actually replace the bad relay. Please don't throw the old module away as it may be valuable to someone. Im going to start collecting old C5 parts as I will try to repair them in my upcoming retirement. You could pop the board out of the box and make sure that there isn't a cold or broken solder joint on the relays. That may save you some cash,'
Bill
Yep,, The relay on the board is most likely the issue. Some people actually replace the bad relay. Please don't throw the old module away as it may be valuable to someone. Im going to start collecting old C5 parts as I will try to repair them in my upcoming retirement. You could pop the board out of the box and make sure that there isn't a cold or broken solder joint on the relays. That may save you some cash,'
Bill
I'm rapidly learning that from here on we're pretty much on our own for some parts, especially electronics, so any parts pulled need to be saved or repaired. Much as I love my C5 I had naively expected better build quality from a Corvette.
Just reinforces my appreciation for my Tundra,. Which ironically is built in Texas....
I'm rapidly learning that from here on we're pretty much on our own for some parts, especially electronics, so any parts pulled need to be saved or repaired. Much as I love my C5 I had naively expected better build quality from a Corvette.
Our cars are Chevys first, and Corvettes second. And all C5's are between 23 and 16 years old. "Normal" sparing from a mass manufacturer is 10 or so years, so anything still available is almost a bonus. And don't expect the aftermarket to provide electronics - not going to happen unless it is a simplistic part and has no onboard "logic".
I'm rapidly learning that from here on we're pretty much on our own for some parts, especially electronics, so any parts pulled need to be saved or repaired. Much as I love my C5 I had naively expected better build quality from a Corvette.
Just reinforces my appreciation for my Tundra,. Which ironically is built in Texas....
so i noticed that while the new FOB"s work perfectly, the TPMS still is only registering the left rear which is closest to the module so looks like i still have an issue.
i guess I'll have to pull it out over the winter and take a look..