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Thanks in advance for some help. I am still having issues with c1243. I have replaced the battery, checked grounds, put power to the abs motor, driven it above 35 mph, slammed on brakes, bled the entire system and I have gotten no where. When I did apply power to the ABS motor I heard it run and it did turn off the issues momentarily. But came back once I drove the car.
I plan to do the ABS motor again. Is there a certain process for this? I put the battery to it in what I thought was the right polarity. Had the motor run for 3-4 seconds 2 times. As the motor builds and reduced pressure should it be run both ways? Did I run it enough?
Any other thoughts to clear this code? Thanks Again. FG
found this on digital corvettes...
"I have a 2000 C5. ABS, traction control and active handeling light was staying on. And it really means ABS isn't working. Code C1243 is a stalled ABS pump motor (read as ..."frozen"). There is a green wire easily visable on top of the ABS pump that powers the pump. I stuck a test light in the insulation and injected 12 volts from the car battery into it. THE PUMP STARTED. The test wire got hot in 2 seconds, so I rested it for about 5 seconds. Then another 3 second injection of 12 volts, then rested. I did this until I got 8 to 10 seconds to the pump with out the test wire getting hot. THE COMPUTER CODE IS GONE AND LIGHTS ARE OUT. Be sure to keep the point of the test light in the insulation and just tap the other end of the test wire on the battery so you don't put more than one tiny hole in the green wire insulation. That is my fix. For those of you that don't have this problem...DRIVE FASTER, BREAK HARDER and your ABS pump won't freeze up from lack of use. PS. Be sure to use a fused wire!"
Thanks for the reply. I have a 2002. Both wires look black. I just stuck some power to the pump by taking some little probs to the connector. I hear it run. Maybe I’m going backwards. I saw a video and copied that polarity.
It’s a track only car. ABS is in constant use. Worried it’s actually needs replacement.
I wanted to finish out this post for others looking at this in the future. I spent 2 weeks cleaning grounds, checking fuses, new battery, exercising the ABS pump, sent EBCM out for service with ABS fixer. ABS fixer guys said the EBCM was throwing the same code and they repaired the unit but warned it could still be a short in the ABS pump. So after reinstalling the EBCM the same C1243 code returned. Very disappointed. I then removed the whole pump, exercised it once again, cleaned it and opened up the motor to see if there was any obvious wiring issues. Nothing seemed out of place. Reinstalled everything and still C1243. Finally, ordered a new ABS pump from RockAuto for $444. Pulled it all apart once again and put the new pump in. Code is gone and brakes are functional again. Sometimes its just the part the code is showing. Hopefully, this is all solved. After a 10 mile drive all seems fine.
Interesting post. The code itself is tripped when the ABS pump is stalled or turning slowly. I wonder if maybe your old motor lost a few turns of the winding thanks to some internal short. Good to hear you were able to fix the problem.
I am sure that someone who is more electrically inclined could have potentially fixed my old motor. However, I'm unfortunately only capable of pull and replace. As this is a track only car I'm happy to have a fresh motor and the ABS working properly. The real annoying part about this was when I exercised the old ABS pump while in the car you hear the motor turning and it sounds strong. It would have been a very easy diagnosis had I put power to the motor and heard nothing. I would have replaced the motor weeks ago. Also, interesting is there are used motors all over the place from $200-$1700. Rock Auto had a new one for $444. I thought that was a good deal in the end.