AND you probably should have checked the crankshaft snout for runout with a dial indicator when the old damper came off.
New balancer still wobbling
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New balancer still wobbling
I replaced my oem balancer with a powerbond and an arp bolt. The old balancer had a slight wobble to it and was making the belt tensioner rattle at low rpm(<650).
Here’s the process I went through;
Pulled the old balancer with a 3 jaw from the inside of the balancer
heated the new one up in the oven at 250° for a few minutes
attempted to slide the balancer enough to get the original bolt to grab but it wasn’t on enough
used the new ARP bolt without the washer since it’s much longer that the oem to press it on far enough for the oem bolt to grab comfortably(this took very little torque) using a strap wrench to hold the balancer from turning over.
Torqued the old bolt to 240 as the manual states
Backed the old bolt out and installed the ARP bolt and washer following ARP’s instructions
My tensioner is still shaking quite a bit at idle, it’s hard to see the balancer wobble at idle speed but when I crank the engine under wot(so it doesn’t start) I can see the wobble clear as day. Also looking at the pulley after the power steering pump I can see the belt moving side to side.
I can also see them bolt it’s self wobbling as if the crank snout is bent. Anyone have any advice?
Here’s the process I went through;
Pulled the old balancer with a 3 jaw from the inside of the balancer
heated the new one up in the oven at 250° for a few minutes
attempted to slide the balancer enough to get the original bolt to grab but it wasn’t on enough
used the new ARP bolt without the washer since it’s much longer that the oem to press it on far enough for the oem bolt to grab comfortably(this took very little torque) using a strap wrench to hold the balancer from turning over.
Torqued the old bolt to 240 as the manual states
Backed the old bolt out and installed the ARP bolt and washer following ARP’s instructions
My tensioner is still shaking quite a bit at idle, it’s hard to see the balancer wobble at idle speed but when I crank the engine under wot(so it doesn’t start) I can see the wobble clear as day. Also looking at the pulley after the power steering pump I can see the belt moving side to side.
I can also see them bolt it’s self wobbling as if the crank snout is bent. Anyone have any advice?
Drifting
Joined: May 2008
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From: Denver, NC
You never use the old bolt to try and pull a balancer on. You risk ruining the threads in the crank. You need to use an installation tool.
You also should not use a strap around the balancer because it stresses the rubber bonding material between the components abnormally and can damage the balancer. You should be able to tell if the inner hub is wobbling vs the outer ring at this point.
Your comment on the bolt wobbling is concerning. You may need to have this looked at by a qualified technician to assess the situation. It's hard to believe you pulled it on crooked, but I also can't believe you bent an ARP bolt. Are you certain the bolt is wobbling?
You also should not use a strap around the balancer because it stresses the rubber bonding material between the components abnormally and can damage the balancer. You should be able to tell if the inner hub is wobbling vs the outer ring at this point.
Your comment on the bolt wobbling is concerning. You may need to have this looked at by a qualified technician to assess the situation. It's hard to believe you pulled it on crooked, but I also can't believe you bent an ARP bolt. Are you certain the bolt is wobbling?
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Oct 26, 2020 at 11:18 PM.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 65
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You never use the old bolt to try and pull a balancer on. You risk ruining the threads in the crank. You need to use an installation tool.
You also should not use a strap around the balancer because it stresses the rubber bonding material between the components abnormally and can damage the balancer. You should be able to tell if the inner hub is wobbling vs the outer ring at this point.
Your comment on the bolt wobbling is concerning. You may need to have this looked at by a qualified technician to assess the situation. It's hard to believe you pulled it on crooked, but I also can't believe you bent an ARP bolt. Are you certain the bolt is wobbling?
You also should not use a strap around the balancer because it stresses the rubber bonding material between the components abnormally and can damage the balancer. You should be able to tell if the inner hub is wobbling vs the outer ring at this point.
Your comment on the bolt wobbling is concerning. You may need to have this looked at by a qualified technician to assess the situation. It's hard to believe you pulled it on crooked, but I also can't believe you bent an ARP bolt. Are you certain the bolt is wobbling?
Last edited by Corvette186; Jan 7, 2021 at 05:39 AM.
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I measured the old balancer and seen some discrepancies. I assumed that was my issue, didn't think anything of the snout at the time. How do those even warp?
Last edited by Corvette186; Oct 27, 2020 at 12:07 AM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 65
Likes: 5
You never use the old bolt to try and pull a balancer on. You risk ruining the threads in the crank. You need to use an installation tool.
You also should not use a strap around the balancer because it stresses the rubber bonding material between the components abnormally and can damage the balancer. You should be able to tell if the inner hub is wobbling vs the outer ring at this point.
Your comment on the bolt wobbling is concerning. You may need to have this looked at by a qualified technician to assess the situation. It's hard to believe you pulled it on crooked, but I also can't believe you bent an ARP bolt. Are you certain the bolt is wobbling?
You also should not use a strap around the balancer because it stresses the rubber bonding material between the components abnormally and can damage the balancer. You should be able to tell if the inner hub is wobbling vs the outer ring at this point.
Your comment on the bolt wobbling is concerning. You may need to have this looked at by a qualified technician to assess the situation. It's hard to believe you pulled it on crooked, but I also can't believe you bent an ARP bolt. Are you certain the bolt is wobbling?
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2018
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From: Golden Colorado
Not warp but "bent crank" couple examples, as I'm sure there are others. Road damage, parking stops, car slipping off of jack under the cross member, etc.
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Burning Brakes
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The reality is, the elastomer ring in the two piece balancer is the weakest point of any part you touched during that job. It wasn’t designed to sustain the 240 ft lbs of torque that you applied while torquing the balancer bolt. I would bet someone else’s paycheck you separated the bond in the power bond when you did that. Now that you have to do it again get a flywheel locking tool if you have an automatic or put the rear wheels on the ground in 6th gear if you hand a manual and you will have no issues applying the 240 ft lbs.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Long Island New York
You heated up the HB then you applied 240 FT pounds in a twisting movement, maybe that was an issue??
I bought the HB installer and the flywheel lock when I did this job.
No heat needed and it went on very easy and the flywheel lock went in without removing the exhaust or starter, just unbolt the starter and move it out of the way.
I bought the HB installer and the flywheel lock when I did this job.
No heat needed and it went on very easy and the flywheel lock went in without removing the exhaust or starter, just unbolt the starter and move it out of the way.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2010
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You heated up the HB then you applied 240 FT pounds in a twisting movement, maybe that was an issue??
I bought the HB installer and the flywheel lock when I did this job.
No heat needed and it went on very easy and the flywheel lock went in without removing the exhaust or starter, just unbolt the starter and move it out of the way.
I bought the HB installer and the flywheel lock when I did this job.
No heat needed and it went on very easy and the flywheel lock went in without removing the exhaust or starter, just unbolt the starter and move it out of the way.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 2,502
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From: California
Crankshaft bearing or crankshaft is done best is to get right down greasy and to say the least dis assemble detach the torque tube and all the good stuff un hook all the engine stuff pull off whatever needs to be pulled off and remove engine dismantle that replace the crank ...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 2,502
Likes: 187
From: California
The reality is, the elastomer ring in the two piece balancer is the weakest point of any part you touched during that job. It wasn’t designed to sustain the 240 ft lbs of torque that you applied while torquing the balancer bolt. I would bet someone else’s paycheck you separated the bond in the power bond when you did that. Now that you have to do it again get a flywheel locking tool if you have an automatic or put the rear wheels on the ground in 6th gear if you hand a manual and you will have no issues applying the 240 ft lbs.
Yup Yup & Yup he twisted the crank input shaft with manual force ...Like he said u should have dropped it 6th with the wheels in the ground and 200 actually and even 180-190 was plenty I only ripped 180 about on my install cause of fear of twisting the crank with manual force of that 3/4 inch torque wrench with a breaker bar on that
Last edited by Speedy007; Oct 27, 2020 at 03:05 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2018
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From: Orange County, CA
Crankshaft bearing or crankshaft is done best is to get right down greasy and to say the least dis assemble detach the torque tube and all the good stuff un hook all the engine stuff pull off whatever needs to be pulled off and remove engine dismantle that replace the crank ...
Yup Yup & Yup he twisted the crank input shaft with manual force ...Like he said u should have dropped it 6th with the wheels in the ground and 200 actually and even 180-190 was plenty I only ripped 180 about on my install cause of fear of twisting the crank with manual force of that 3/4 inch torque wrench with a breaker bar on that
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 2,502
Likes: 187
From: California
What he implies is possible but what I gathered from that statement it’s way more severe....But hopefully we will see the end results whatever the case may be
Use a summit puller and installing tool ...I have one works fantastic...ease of installing perfect...
Use a summit puller and installing tool ...I have one works fantastic...ease of installing perfect...
Last edited by Speedy007; Oct 27, 2020 at 03:36 PM.
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I’d like to update everyone here and say that the bolt it’s self is wobbling as well. So... I don’t really know where to go from here.
Drifting
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,695
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From: Denver, NC
Remove bolt and balancer and check crank snout for damage and runout. Check threads too. If all ok, properly install a new balancer. If not ok, take to qualified technician to assess repair. A video would be very helpful - pics might help.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Oct 27, 2020 at 04:41 PM.
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Last edited by Corvette186; Oct 27, 2020 at 04:41 PM.