The edge of the bolt head is not a controlled machined surface plus there is movement in the threads - that video does not mean much.

The runout of the actual snout is the one that is going to tell the story.

Curious if you take the stock bolt and run it in and rotate what it visually looks like. Won't tell much as far as measurements, but if it looks much better you can feel better.

 

Yup the dial indicates a bend at -.002 and -.004 determined there’s a lop outside of the 0 rotating value which the hub picks up and show of you were to run that dial on the hub it would prob spike up to way outside the centerline ...sorry boss man crank surely loos bent .....so I’m no expert or mechanic but seems to me u had applied some excessive over force somehow to make this kinda bend or like u said the problem is pre existing which the motor mounts have failed a while back this is why the crank bent under taking off hard yada yada under any kinda performance....soo...change motor mounts during the rebuild ....u will save yourself a ton of re occurring bs ....


also the lop comparing the two side by side seems the same just one has a hub on still one a dial both are loping out of circulation ...I’ll watching maybe he could get us a more lengthy video with the dial gauge something at least 30 seconds of good view it’s worth the starter bearing IMO
But in my own opinion only it’s def bent I can see in all 3 videos and yes I did watch the in 1 u really have to look but 2& 3 show the result when a object is on it so ...it may not be the result u wanted but it is what is ...right. What ya do is head up to the scrap yard find a used stock hub throw that on cause it’s dirt cheap see what that does as a 3rd configuration test if it wobbles after 3 balancers exchange then for sure without a doubt something is up in the crank or the hole that shaft went into is over warped from heat ....and run which would require u to discard the entire lower end for a new one cause even a new crank might not fix it .....so here’s that time to throw in a 6.0 or a 6.2

 

Again, are we looking at the same thing? The first video, IMG-0164.mov, shows the needle deflecting between -.001" and .001, which could also influenced by the engine shaking.

 

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The snout variable just reading gauge a off number in that spot other then a maybe a little itzy spike but certainly not something you can spot and I say it’s lop ..The more circumference he seems to add make the lop more visible hence a small bend at the crank will cause huge visible results where it’s center lining circumference isn’t in syc with rotation same result would be implied if for say a arm retaining bracket is loose it would fail to sync rotation smoothly or the motor mounts are hella loose


What else can he do get a new oem bolt and balancer and test it again well it’s worth a shot I guess no one is saying otherwise other then I really don’t think that’s gonna help but I will be here watching

 

I'm highly doubting the crank is bent. The crank is tough so that doesn't just "happen". Put a good balancer on. I would tend towards the Powerbond Race balancer or the Summit Bracket Racer balancer, or better instead of a OEM type replacement. No 25% under drive. Then, watch the pulley grooves for wobble, not any other part of the balancer.

I'm still shaking my head at the comments about the motor mounts causing the crank snout to bend.

If you wanted a real cheap test then peel the outer ring off the balancer and clean the elastomer surface for the dial indicator and install that to measure.

But, I would turn the crank by hand with the dial indicator first in a few different spots to see if the high and low spots are always on the same side.

 

So every one really believes it’s not bent well ..

He replaced the stock balancer to a power bind because it wobbles now after a new balancer it wobbles still sooo......I’m not doubting the guys install skill as he seems up to snuff maybe maybe it’s another bad balancer and bolt but it wouldn’t hurt I guess to return what he bought say it’s defective get another and try a stock bolt this time and if the problem doesn’t cure .......??? The the — — — — — is bent ....

 

There are a lot of comments I am shaking my head at lol. Throughout the entire thread - starting very early - was the advice to pull the balancer and check the runout. All these posts (some of which just do not make sense), and we finally get to pulling the balancer and checking the runout. On the video of it running, it looks like .001 or .002 (but it's shaking) runout unless I missed something.

 

No. Most of the time everyone is better off by simply ignoring your advice.

 

Indeed that’s why my **** runs perfect ...because I have made every mistake there’s is to possible make on a lot of cars ....but I know if I went through two balancers and my **** wobbles like it’s the 70’s I would have been torn out the lower and and bucked that shitz right to scrap yard where it belonged to get smelted ...

 

Yes, looks good to me. In the first video you can clearly see the outer ring moving relative to the inner hub which appears to be causing the runout of the belt grooves which is THE reference point to use when determining balancer wobble. I could care less what the bolt is doing as long as it's torqued correctly to hold the balancer in place.

 

I just turned on sound and caught that it was being cranked not run. Either way, with what I see, if it were my car, I would be properly installing a damper before tearing out the motor. I think I would have done the test without the plugs out to make it as smooth as possible.

 

We will see but hey if I am wrong I wrong but obviously if a 3rd new balancer a 3rd new bolt doesn’t fix it ...

 

Depending where u are I do have a summit puller and installer


Also I have a pinning tool..I will provide the stock bolt here in a second after I find just to show u that these bolts the arp and oem aren’t the same size either and this could be ur issue as I been explain a **** load of stuff as to why and try before removing engine ....


Here is the original 20 year old stock bolt and a New not used ARP these bolts are different lengths maybe causing a lop ...hey hey hey as I already stated yesterday....

Now do You see the flanges on this neck how high up the stock bolt is and how low the arp is causing u to slip threads omg ouch...this could be the issue as well

 

Speedy, You quoted me before I corrected plugs from in to out. Also, seems like you have a beef with others here, if you could leave me out of it that would be great. I'm just here for the party.

 

Why do you need a Summit puller and installer? Is Summit your favorite?
I would NEVER recommend using a OEM parts as a replacement

 

The reason I said that is because the original balancer could have simply been failed. The replacement was improperly installed with a strap. Pulling the engine is a hell of a big deal compared to properly installing what would actually be the 1st replacement damper if it's done properly.

 

This puller seats and removes pulley with ease of mounting ect ...I’m always happy to recommend quality install/ removal tools that I myself have used already ...

 

Check out the two bolts and look how one flange on the stock bolt see how high up and how many more threads there are ...then the ARP has a lower flange and less threads ...oh I use a stock OEM bolt on my supercharged ls1 just so u know that all the hype the oem bolt snaps is total bs especially I have pinned my crank as well which really doesn’t involve this topic much ...

 

No actually my favorite is prob like complete street performance......the load of stuff I got from them dirt cheap but that another story ...


Wow summit puller is the best mounting removal and install tool for the ls1 balancer out there in the market today it’s just a bit costly that’s why they actually recommend you send it back after your done with it ...I’ve kept it though cause it’s a beauty...

 

WTF point are you trying to make about the bolt???

You TOTALLY ignored the thick ARP washer in the length comparison.

The total thread length difference means nothing because neither bolt engages all it's thread length. The stocker just has extra un-used threads.

IT should be obvious that once you pin the balancer the requirements for the bolt actually holding the balancer in place go way down. You could way under-torque the bolt and not spin a pinned balancer. The pin more or less makes it like a keyed SBC balancer which didn't require nearly the torque on it's bolt.

The amount of BS polluting the poor OP's thread is sad....