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WTF point are you trying to make about the bolt???
You TOTALLY ignored the thick ARP washer in the length comparison.
The total thread length difference means nothing because neither bolt uses all it's thread length. The stocker just has extra un-used threads.
No it doesn’t ....I put that little sucker in I bet the Op is attached to about 8 threads that’s why the balancer is looping of the crank isn’t bent ...cause of the two different bolt types ...Disagree stock bolt has un used threads I would love for a gm tech state that ....
Last edited by Speedy007; Oct 28, 2020 at 02:25 PM.
The balancer is located by the interference fit between it and the crank. The bolt does not center the balancer in any way.
The ARP is LONGER without the washer and the SAME length with the washer. So NO it won't engage the crank threads less.
The recommended minimum thread engagement for a bolt to properly hold is 1x the bolt diameter. It's a 16mm x 2mm thread pitch bolt which means 8 threads engaged is 16mm of thread length engaged and that works just fine.
Besides, it's WELL KNOWN the ARP bolt works just fine because LOTS of people are successfully using it. So, if you put both bolts side by side and the stock bolt has a longer thread length then the stock bolt has extra threads that DO NOT get used. The stock bolt can't just magically screw in further because it has a longer thread.
Last edited by lionelhutz; Oct 28, 2020 at 02:51 PM.
I haven’t seen not 1 arp bolt fit the 2000 ls1 ....based off what I clearly have on had to compare and have tried so I will just totally disregard your statement the bolt work done with ls1 5.7 maybe ls6 or later years I have no clue nor any say ....as the package does indicate ls6 6.0 as well ...having to never had a need to break out my snake camera to inspect the crank snout thread count ...for me at the time was simple enough to realize same thread different thread count cause my bolt to stick out and I wouldn’t risk wrenching it down compare to insertion of the stock bolts was also way different before any torques needed to be applied ...I have 1st hand experience and sorry to say it was a bad one that my judgement is made off ...
Last edited by Speedy007; Oct 28, 2020 at 03:06 PM.
It is difficult, albeit possible, to get an accurate reading for cam straightness on V-blocks, so we recommend having this specification checked at your machine shop. Any more than about 0.002-inch. runout measured at the intermediate journals is generally unacceptable.
heres how’s to use the gauge just imply specs for the crank ...
I enjoy the dumb *** shenanigans on this forum as much as the next dude, but lets me honest here and all agree the back and forth bullshit doesn't really help the OP.
Cranks are hard mother f'ers.... like the 2nd hardest component in the motor behind the sleeves. They just don't "bend". I've been around engine building since I was 12 yrs old. His crank is fine. Jesus, don't take that out of context!!! The ONLY possibility is the crank snout was drilled and tapped off centerline a degree or two. And if it was???? Bolt the new balancer up and keep an eye on it.
It's that simple. Motors mounts don't bend crankshafts. Crank snouts aren't bent. The dial caliper doesn't like. And even the measured deflection was likely the mounting device, however a couple of thousandths is tolerable.
If you think cranks don’t bend, kick on over when it’s standing on end and then measure it.
Kind of a "yeah no ****" comment. I would first ask why for the love of sweet baby jesus would you EVER store a crankshaft like that?! If I drop it off my garage roof it may be out of spec too.
Last edited by CinciZ06; Oct 28, 2020 at 09:11 PM.
I spun the crank by hand while measuring and it seems to be okay, now has anyone used this flywheel lock? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all96426 Or is there a different one that anyone would recommend? I learned my lesson and I want to do everything right this time around.
I have never used that one but it says it mounts on the dowel pin, so I'm thinking they are talking about the locating pins on the block for the trans, so you would have to have the engine and trans separated to mount it is my thinking.
I spun the crank by hand while measuring and it seems to be okay, now has anyone used this flywheel lock? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all96426 Or is there a different one that anyone would recommend? I learned my lesson and I want to do everything right this time around.
I used one from eBay that bolts into two of the started holes. I also used an ARP bolt and the included washer on my HB. Not sure why there is confusion, but with the washer they are the same length. My 2 cents, I would bet your balancer was ruined during the install because you used a strap wrench. Do it again, lock the fly wheel, don't heat the HB, and use an ARP bolt. Also, if you didn't already, replace the main seal while you are in there. Good luck!
Unless ur blind I guess or have some serious vision impairments the stock bolt and the arp aren’t the same bolt not even close with or without a washer ...That’s why to me it sits packed away and will never be out on my car ...all this junk about the stock bolt snapping is what it is hear say bs ..stock bolts holds 900 hp with a pinned crank just fine but don’t take it from some one who actually runs it .....amd yes we can argue all day over that mis matched arp wouldn’t fit my ls1 so given I like stuff to fit as it should I say use the stock bolt and it’s 1/5 of the cost of a arp.......Now let’s start crying can someone please stop the thread because some of us have a slightly different outlook .....boo hooo
Unless ur blind I guess or have some serious vision impairments the stock bolt and the arp aren’t the same bolt not even close with or without a washer ...That’s why to me it sits packed away and will never be out on my car
Yikes. The proper ARP bolt for this application, P/N 234-2503, when used with the included washer is the same length as a stock bolt. I verified this myself when I swapped the original HB for an ATI unit 8 months ago.
The BS trying to be spread here is pathetic. Here is a picture of the stock bolt and ARP bolt beside each other. The third bolt is being touted as better because it's longer and has more thread engagement (except that much thread engagement is not any better).
Missing the point still ....non of those bolts side by side look identical to the oem even if it were a harder bolt spec why not make it exact to stock thread and flange spec ? Then all the fuss is gone ....if they had done just that ....having that extra thread locked down is obviously needed for the safety of it ...the only thing in my mind that the so called better bolt did was take away from $ that could have been better spent ....not really required..the stock bolt and balancer lasted 20+ years already ...
Last edited by Speedy007; Nov 2, 2020 at 04:59 PM.
Missing the point still ....non of those bolts side by side look identical to the oem even if it were a harder bolt spec why not make it exact to stock thread and flange spec ? Then all the fuss is gone ....if they had done just that ....
If we're missing the point, then enlighten us... what's the point? Why does the bolt need to look identical to OEM? It functions exactly like OEM, but better because it's reusable due to not being torque-to-yield.
If we're missing the point, then enlighten us... what's the point? Why does the bolt need to look identical to OEM? It functions exactly like OEM, but better because it's reusable due to not being torque-to-yield.
it
Indeed all you have stated would had been true given someone could have just replicated the oem bolt exact ......but since it’s not the exact not even 1 or two threads off we are talking 6 or more and to me that’s not right I don’t care how much extra grip people say those threads are providing nothing but a potential torque build up under stress or in any case of bearing failure where wobble is present your gonna 100 % rip threads clean out with that bolt hole with that kind of thread strength period of you want some enlightenment there is it I wouldn’t risk a bolt that didn’t line up within 2 or 3 threads max and of course because the stock bolts completes the thread lock with in its virtual boundaries to stay secure safely with the right amount of threads and thread grip on the metal ....or steel crank in this case I think gm knew a little bit more about metal reactions with threads and strength the some places trying to sell 60.00 bolts what a lol ......just saying if people are gonna ask a bucks for a bolt I expect it to be a exact copy but a better grade ......or in this case a paper weight ...
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