New balancer still wobbling
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2019
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From: SW Ohio
If the crank is in fact bent like that - don't start it again or you may cause catastrophic damage to the block. You will be looking at a complete lower end rebuild at a minimum.
FWIW, crank distortion / shaft deflection (I saw a commercial for medication regarding this medical condition) is measured in thousandths of an inch - not visible to the naked eye.
Hoping for the best for ya.
Last edited by CinciZ06; Oct 27, 2020 at 04:52 PM.
Melting Slicks
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From: California
Yet I’m wrong and u laugh at me when the bolts is wobbles with the shaft duh lol do the wobble wobble then drop drop it sorry Op I do feel for u though it’s a lesson well learnt if anything ....
A simple pry bar a on the crank snout and if he tries to wiggle it there should be no play if it wiggles there’s the problem if not then crank snout bent ...simple as it gets here to solving it
A simple pry bar a on the crank snout and if he tries to wiggle it there should be no play if it wiggles there’s the problem if not then crank snout bent ...simple as it gets here to solving it
Last edited by Speedy007; Oct 27, 2020 at 05:03 PM.
Melting Slicks
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From: California
I don’t understand, I’m not laughing at anything here. Anyways, the lesson I’m picking up is that I should have checked run out while it was apart because I know damn well I didn’t bend it. Call it denial, but there is no way I applied enough force to do that. And if anything, it seems a flywheel lock would apply more load to the crank.
Wasnt implied to 2 u Tsaxton....u may luck out and it be a bearing either way your taking out the engine to get at it soooo...u might as well grab a brand new 150 dollar 3.622 in the process for safe measures
Depending on where the lop is u might actually gain a extra 1/16 of stroke j/k but I could t resist...
Last edited by Speedy007; Oct 27, 2020 at 05:16 PM.
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https://drive.google.com/file/d/14Qq...ew?usp=sharing
There we go. Drive killed the quality but it is still visable.
There we go. Drive killed the quality but it is still visable.
Last edited by Corvette186; Jan 7, 2021 at 05:36 AM.
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I agree, its fixable though.
My balancer was already wobbling which is why I took this project on. My front main seal has leaked a lot of oil out based on all the residue(which I wish I would have investigated further at the time).
My balancer was already wobbling which is why I took this project on. My front main seal has leaked a lot of oil out based on all the residue(which I wish I would have investigated further at the time).
Last edited by Corvette186; Jan 7, 2021 at 05:36 AM.
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Take it apart and see what you got. I can see you need another H/B and maybe a new bolt... I doubt the crank is bent from what I can see in that vid
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Last edited by Corvette186; Oct 27, 2020 at 10:09 PM.
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Burning Brakes
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From: Seattle area, WA (On the Eastside)
I agree with smoken1. Although rare, there may come a time that someone gets a defective product as well. I had thought perhaps you had cross threaded in earlier posts. Just take it off and see how it goes. If the crank is bent, that car has been in an accident, or someone dropped it prior to installation.
Burning Brakes
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From: SW Ohio
I watched it numerous times and I agree with Smoken1. My only fear is the bolt is somehow cross threaded. But I bet you are going to find the problem is balancer / bolt related.
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I agree with smoken1. Although rare, there may come a time that someone gets a defective product as well. I had thought perhaps you had cross threaded in earlier posts. Just take it off and see how it goes. If the crank is bent, that car has been in an accident, or someone dropped it prior to installation.
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Melting Slicks
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If that crank is bent it could ruin the seal in time ...Get it up so 60 in 3500 rpms and it’s gonna jigggle ..........amd if it does slow down drive easy return back before trans takes a serious decking at the input of that shaft oh the damage wouldn’t be pretty
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At this point I’m not even gonna risk it. Balancer is coming off tonight will be further inspected. Thanks for all of the suggestions though speedy, I appreciate the help.
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Well I think I have some good news, please check these videos out and see what you think. First video is measuring on the crank, second is on the bolt, third is on the bolt spinning it by hand.
*Second video isnt loading for me, let me know if its working for you please.
also Id like to add that I can hand screw the bolt all the way in till it bottoms out so there is definitely no cross threading, looks like great news to me.
Last edited by Corvette186; Oct 28, 2020 at 04:58 AM.
Burning Brakes
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From: SW Ohio
That’s great news and glad you aren’t jerking the motor out! Does it appear the drilling and tapping of the crank is a bit off or was it the bolt itself? If you put the old bolt back in is it on centerline like it should be?
Last edited by CinciZ06; Oct 28, 2020 at 06:31 AM.
Melting Slicks
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From: Orange County, CA
Are we looking at the same thing? First video, the dial indicator on the crank shows a TIR of something like 0.002", but that needle movement could be exacerbated by shaking due to the engine turning over. That checks out IMO.