Rapid - The dipstick tube on my 98 is bolted to the second header pipe. The air tube is over the first header pipe. When I insert the tube into the block 3" it hits the stop ring on the tube. Then the bracket bolt hole is at the right height to be bolted to the header pipe. However the angle where the bracket meets the header bolt hole is off ever so slightly. I'm going to have to tweak it a bit.

You know, even before I ordered this system (3 weeks ago) I read about the poor allignment problems your experiencing with the air tube flange. When I ordered (from LAPD) I mentioned this. Shawn (at LAPD) said I'll get you the right system for your car. Well as I said earlier, my air tube flange alligned nicely. I had the header threads tapped out prior to install. Well anyway, I guess what I am saying is there maybe differences (in dip stick tube placement) since your ride is a 2002 ZO6. Good luck. ;)

 

I didn't have that much of a problem...........I wonder If you have the right set?
I did have to bend the dipstick tube holder bracket maybe 1" to fit up, but that was all



[Modified by ALLTHROTTLE&NOBOTTLE, 7:12 AM 12/9/2002]

 

Hi guys,
Still have mine installed in the spare bedroom at this time. Question though - do I need to run O2 sims if I install the ORP's?

thanks,

 

Well here I am again and I have GREAT NEWS! I torqued the FLP headers to the heads yesterday; I waited till this evening (after work) to check out the allignment of the collector tabs to the front hangar bracket. Are you ready?! They allign PERFECTLY !!!! So combined with the fact that the passenger air tube flange alligned PERFECTLY what gives with all these misallignment problems many seem to be having??? 98 Coupe system ordered through LAPD 3 weeks ago.

OK that being said: Blue Locktight and 37 ft lbs. of torque??? Note I like the idea someone posted about a rubber washer, grommet or whatever to absorb vibration...to hot down there for rubber? Come on...what do you all think? :D

 

Hey THRAP 42 - Yes.. at least that is what I learned here on the Forum. The best price is from LAPD and they are simple to install. :seeya

 

Yup that was me with the following,

Could you not use a metal lined rubber grommet between the tabs and where they bolt in. It would isolate vibration damage and give you some room to "fudge" the exact alignment???

CapeCodCoupe is right, maybe to hot for rubber. Any other solutions? Motor mounts get pretty hot and they use rubber (or something like it).

:cheers:

 

This pix is of the dipstick, viewing from the driver's side. As you can see, the top of the dipstick is about level with the plastic wall that sourrounds the battery & fusebox. The bracket on the dipstick is still a couple inches above the header. I pushed it down as hard as felt safe. Is this still too high?

Thanks,

 

This pix shows the throttle body area looking from the passenger's side. There are a couple of gold holes in the middle of the photo. I don't remember unscrewing any bolts from there. Do you guys know what these are for?

Thanks,

 

Man, I'm discovering more problems as I go! :mad Are the 2 sides of your X-pipe the same length? Mine's not! This means that I have to slide the the straight pipe (the section with the 02 bung) out to make up for the missing length, and I now have barely 1/2" of over lap between that pipe and the X-pipe. Also, the flange of the passenger X-pipe now OVERLAPS the flange of the Titanium crossover pipe on same side. How the hell am I gonna be able to mate them up? Perhaps it's just my bad luck, but FLP really needs to pay mroe attention to their QC!

:mad

 

Hey Rapid - The X pipe is designed that way so the clamps can be offset from one another. Of course, you put the long connector pipe into the shorter X pipe and the shorter connector pipe into the longer X pipe side...right?

Odd that my system fits fine and yours is so out of it! I would call FLP or your distributor to verify you received the right package for your car! :smash:

 

I was pretty sure that was how I lined them up. But that was 1 AM I could have been too tired to see straight. I'll go check again. Thanks!
:cheers:

 

Cape Code...congrats on the install. I would just like to make it aware to everyone that 97-99 cars have different headers than the 00 on up cars. If you car is a 97-99 it may have been why you have had such good luck with the install. Black Magic who did one of the first write ups on it has a 98 or a 99 and didnt have any problems but it seems that those of us with newer cars are having the problems. Also I think in either 00 or 01 the location of the dipstick changed . Rapid keep playing with it and you will get it somewhat lined up. If you are done with any mods to the exhaust on your car it may be worth it to take it to a good muffler shop and have them seal up everything well. Oh and watch out for tall speedbumps cause the system will scrape a little on a car that is lowered only with the factory bolts. :cheers:

 

Update: Lined the tips up evenly, tightened everything down. Looks very nice! The front hanger bracket still is off, so I'll get some washers tomorrow and shim the bracket, that should take care of it. Lastly the dipstick still won't go down to the correct depth, I'll probably have to take the car to the dealer and have them do that. How are you doing CapeCod Coupe?

:cheers:

 

Hey Rapid - Glad to hear your basicly done! Have you gone for a ride yet? There's an interesting recent post about gains on the ZO6 with the FLP's. You've probably seen it.

I am making good progress. Underneath is all done except need to invite a buddy over to align the PRT's. I have a few comments:

1. How tight is tight on the V flange clamps and the band clamps? I've tightened everything as far as I dare go. I understand we have to recheck after awhile so I will do that. Are the band clamps stainless..they should be. My car is basicly a garage queen rarely if ever driven in the rain.

2. Everything lined up well. There was a half inch offset between the Driver's ORP and the extension coming out of the X pipe. No problem..but not perfect!

3. I can see future problems with speed bumps cause the V flange clamps have a higher profile then a routine muffler clamp.

4. I'm on hold now for Kool Socks which should be here by Friday and I ordered a new steering shaft bolt ($12.00 at the dealer). I am replacing this cause I rounded the head of it getting it off and it has blue locktight on it. That baby was on there securely and I want no compromise with that bolt!

5. I realize yours is a 2002 but mine is a 98 with 22,500 miles. When removing the valve covers I noticed spidery like cracks or stress lines leading up to some of the bolt on receptacles for the coil packs. These cracks or whatever do not appear on the inside of the valve covers (I removed both) but they do concern me. I'm pricing new valve covers. We shall see.

Other than that, hey it has been fun hasn't it? I really got to know my car up close and personal shall we say. Maybe I'll get the confidence to do my own install of heads and cam from this in the spring. We shall see. All for now,
CapeCodCoupe. :D :chevy :flag

 

Yeah I saw that other post about the FLP gain, hopefully I will have good result as well, I'll dyno again after the relearn.

Like you, I didn't tighten the clamps too much either, I'm planning on getting the car on a lift and verify everything. They're fairly tight though. My car does see the occasional rain, but it rarely rains around here anyways.

I have the bolts for the V clamps pointed a little upward to keep the overhang to a practical minimum.

I just ordered some MSD wires, should be here tomorrow. I might try the Koolsocks if you like them. They only cover the boots right. Don't know if I should get the sleeves for the wires themselves. I don't think the stress cracks in the valve cover will give you any problem, but just for peace of mind might as well get new ones.

Can't wait to fire her up! :chevy :cheers:

 

You may want to take a closer look at those.........More than likely, casting imperfections and where the molted alum. is pored into the mold. I believe those are sand cast. I don't believe you have an issue. I saw the same manf. scerf on my PS.
As for the tightness. I crank the shi* out of them. SS can take 30 ft. lbs.
It did not deform the V-clamp ring in the middle. Once that starts to happen you have reached the point of diminshing torque!
You can always start low and torque it more if it leaks :yesnod:

 

Thanks for the input ATNB and all your other posts on this install process!

By the way, do you happen to know the torque setting for the steering shaft bolt that I am replacing? Cheers. :seeya