Well, finally got back from vacation and went at it again. I'm having a little trouble geting the passenger's header in. I assume all you guys got it down from the top. My problem is that the collector's tab is preventing the header from going through. How did you do it? I've removed the valve cover, spark plugs and wires. The driver's side is done. Any tip is appreciated.

:cheers:

PS: What can I use to plug up the O2 bungs if I decide to go w/o the cats?


[Modified by Rapid Transit, 1:42 AM 12/5/2002]

 

RT - The passenger side was difficult as the tab wants to hang up on the starter. I finally was able to get it past the starter after removing the valve cover. It required some patient turning, twisting and cursing. :cuss It helps to have someone work it from the top while you guide the collector tab past the starter from underneath. Good luck.

Alan :seeya

 

Ya just gotta play with it...... Start with the collector pointing straight down.
Get the tab under the snout of the starter 1st off, then tie back any of the wiring harness that maybe in the way. Don't be afraid to push hard against the frame or block. Just make sure you don't get hung on wiring.
As some others have said, you can pull the starter down just enough to get the header in and then bolt it back up before continuing with the header install. :thumbs:


[Modified by ALLTHROTTLE&NOBOTTLE, 7:14 AM 12/5/2002]

 

I removed one starter bolt, loosened the other one, pivoted the starter slightly, and the header dropped right into place.

 

Question on the Drivers Side... looks like I need to move the steering shaft. Is it the bolt closest to the front? I made a couple attempts to loosen this with about 75% effort and it would not budge. Want to verify this is the correct bolt before going for broke here! Loosen the bolt then pull the shaft of the steering joint and move it to the side.. right? 98 car with the two fuel lines! alternator and oil filter already out...thanks!

Also having a tough time with passenger side. Starter loosend but air cond. hose and air to header hose really making things tight and difficult. Scratching inside of header on valve cover seat. Not good.

 

RT, We sell the 02 bung plugs along with 02 simulators. Give us a call at 480-517-4969.

Thanks, Chad

 

CapeCodCoupe:
I got both sides in, so here's what I've found to work great for me. Driver's side: The most forward bolt on the steering shaft is the one to remove. YES it is VERY hard to turn, I just placed a socket wrench there and use a rubber mallet to hammer away at the wrench's handle. It will loosen with no problem. After your pull the bolt out, don't turn the steering wheel or it'll be very hard to get the bolt back in. No good reason to turn the wheel but just thought I'd remind you. Assuming you already have the valve cover, plugs, plug wires, and alternator removed. Now move the steering shaft outboard (toward the fenderwell) and there'll be plenty of room for the header to drop in.

Passenger's side: Remove valve cover, plug wires, plugs do not have to be removed but be careful that the header don't drop down on them during install. You MUST loosen the starter (this is the gold-looking cylinder) for the collector's tab to slide through. When you're under the car looking upward at the starter, you'll see 2 bolts holding it in. 1 bolt is low and is very visible, and the other one is higher up and hard to see. Only LOOSEN the visible, lower bolt, no need to remove it completely. Use a deep socket to remove the "invisible" bolt, the starter will now pivot on the lower, visible bolt and when you slide the header down, the collector's tab will easily slide through. I just did all this last night, so the information is very fresh in my mind. PM me if you need any more tips. I'm no expert, this is my 1st "major" car project, and I'm taking my sweet time, so what I post here is from a novice installer's perspective.

Chad: Thanks for the offer, but I just went to AutoZone and got the correct bolt to plug up the bungs. ORPs are going in tonight, no need to worry about 02 sensors!

:cheers:

 

Hey Rapid Transit! I did get the passenger side in everything looking good there. The drivers side ... haven't been able to get the sterring shaft bolt out. You wacked it!? If i wack it it will probably break! Thought I might try some liquid wrench over night.

How did your allignment to the front hangar come out? :chevy

 

The alignment of the front hanger bracket is way off. I just got a vice so I can hold it in place and use a big hammer to whack it a little bit. My driver's side collector's tab is further off than the passenger's side tab. At the rate I'm going, we'll probably gonna finish at the same time.

:cheers:

 

What I did for the passenger side was just bend the tab out of the way and then bend it back underneath. I did not disconnect the battery on the car and after i hit the starter a few times and saw some sparks fly i just decided on bending the tab. Easy and effective. :cheers:

 

Rapid Transit - My passenger side collector tab lines up close: drivers side not in yet. Av8ter agrees with you... install the headers than make the bracket fit to where the headers want to be after they are securely fastened to the heads! I may job my bracket out to the local machine shop depending on the variance.

I noticed your installing the ORP's and O2 sims. This is indeed what I am doing. My O2 sims are in place. They are very close to the Passenger header even with a tie back...hope they don't melt! You know, I installed aftermarket O2 sensors in the front and I'm glad I did! The aftermarket ones have a much smaller profile then the stock ones. But even then, there is barely enough room for these never mind the stock behemoths!

Also I have aftermarket wires (MSD), hope these work out better than the stock heat shields which many say touch the headers (arcing?). What do you think about the Kool Socks? Necessary even with MSD wires?

What year is your car? :chevy :flag

 

My 02 only has 8000 miles on it, so I'm not gonna bother with changing to aftermarket plugs and wires. If it were higher mileage I certainly would. Did the flange/tab of the AIR tube line up on your passenger's side header? Mine's not. :mad

 

My car had 5k on it when i did the install and changing the wires is recommended because the headers will give off much more heat which could cause the stock wires to get fried. If you start having a misfire you will need to upgrade the wires.

 

What wires are recommended and are readily available at PepBoys or AutoZone? I don't wanna wait for shipping if I don't have to. How about the spark plugs, should I change them too?

Thanks,

 

Hey Rapid Transit! Yes my passenger O2 flange lines up nicely with the new header. Don't know about the driver yet since I haven't got that steering shaft bolt out yet. I haven't buttoned up the passenger side entirely yet..waiting to catch up on the driver's side. But I did notice the dipstick bracket is going to have to be slightly bent to fit where the bolt retainer holds it in place. I am getting the Kool Socks just to be safe with my new MSD wires. So I'm waiting on them also...no hurry.. roads up here are all snow, ice and sand! I guess you got your dipstick in..I got a headsup on this earlier so I've been practicing. For the record the dip stick goes in between the second and third pipe.. the hole is just above the forward part of the starter.
:seeya

 

I dont know how high you have your car but I installed the drivers side from the bottom and didnt have to loosen the steering shaft at all. Also, I didnt have to bend the oil dipstick tube at all either.

 

The car is 16" in the air all the way around. I tried the driver's side from the bottom and just couldn't make it happen.

The dip stick tube..ah, just a small bend of the bracket right where it screws into the header.

 

I found the hole in the engine block where the dipstick goes to, but now I'm not sure if I have it in all the way. I can see that the orange O ring is already past the opening, and now the stick is prevented from further movement by the metal notch just above the O ring. I should have taken some pix of how things were before disassembly, so now I lost all the refernce point. At this point, the top of the dipstick is almost even with the rubber wall around the battery and fuse box. Am I supposed to push the dipstick down some more?

Thanks!

 

Good news, I have both headers in and torqued! The steering shaft bolt has blue lock tight on it..well it works!

Concerning the dip stick tube, don't know if I can add anything. Mine slides into the block about 3" and then hits a ring on the tube. If your bracket from the tube lines up with the bolt hole on the header.. I'd say your in there brother!

How did you make the front hangar for the collector tabs work? As I said above I torqued the headers in to the head. Now I plan to somehow make the hangar meet the tab holes. AV8ter has a good post on how he did this. I didn't check my variance on the driver's side! Saving it for the "problem of the week". At least you will be able to drive yours when your completely done. I'm going to have to wait for the sand to leave the roads! Cheers to ya... let me know how you make out. :chevy :thumbs:

 

CapeCodCoupe:
I think we're at the same stage. Here's to both of us. :cheers: Well both headers are in, I just finished the very tough task of bending the steel air tube on the passenger side so the flanges lined up. Well there was actually still a slight off-angle problem, not too much,so I just tightened the bolts in and things look good. You said your oil dipstick slid in about 3" and then stopped at the ring on the tube, well the distance from the tip of the tube to that notch (the ring) is about 3", so I'm right there. However, the bracket on the tube is still much higher than the header, so I think I need to push it in another 3"? The bracket is bolted to a hole in the header right? Please check for me, is the hole just behind the air tube flange? I'm still in the process of hammering the hanger bracket to line up with the collector tabs. What a PITA!

I'll go rest now.
Take care,
:chevy