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I have a 2000 C5 that sporadically throws up the infamous "Reduced Engine Power" warning as well as every other warning you could think of. Often when this happens the power windows and power doors also stop working, as does my keyless entry, AC, and ability to open the hatch.
I swapped the battery as I heard low voltage could cause this and have also cleaned all ground wires. I pulled my passenger fuse box today to search for loose or open wires but had no luck.
I can get the problem and messages to go away temporarily by pushing down on the passenger fuse box, but this fix only lasts a week or so (or until I hit a decent-sized bump). This leads me to believe it should be a loose or open wire.
I heard it could be the ECM but I am not convinced that is my issue as, like I said, the issue goes away by simply putting a little pressure on my passenger fuse box.
I did try looking for different threads as I know this is a hot topic, but have had no luck as of yet...
Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated or if you could point me to a thread that would also be helpful.
I have a 2000 C5 that sporadically throws up the infamous "Reduced Engine Power" warning as well as every other warning you could think of. Often when this happens the power windows and power doors also stop working, as does my keyless entry, AC, and ability to open the hatch.
I swapped the battery as I heard low voltage could cause this and have also cleaned all ground wires. I pulled my passenger fuse box today to search for loose or open wires but had no luck.
I can get the problem and messages to go away temporarily by pushing down on the passenger fuse box, but this fix only lasts a week or so (or until I hit a decent-sized bump). This leads me to believe it should be a loose or open wire.
I heard it could be the ECM but I am not convinced that is my issue as, like I said, the issue goes away by simply putting a little pressure on my passenger fuse box.
I did try looking for different threads as I know this is a hot topic, but have had no luck as of yet...
Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated or if you could point me to a thread that would also be helpful.
When you say you cleaned all the grounds, did you actually pry apart the connectors under the hood, and clean each pin? I did this wrong when I first heard about it, by removing the ground nut and using Emory cloth on the underside of the mounting tab and then the frame around the ground stud. After further reading, and still having problems, I then realized my error, and pried the plastic pieces apart with a thin blade screwdriver. Good luck......
You have two current codes which are:
P0441 EVAP System No Flow During Purge
B0361 Left Actuator Feedback Short to GND The other codes are H which means history
Sounds like another serial data bus issue...if any module (BCM, PCM, HVAC) loses power or ground that power or ground needs to find “its way home” and that’s via your serial data wire and when that happens you’ll get all those DIC warnings plus you’ll see your gas gauge go to E and your water temp gauge maxes out...you also have a lot of U codes which are communication DTC’s...I’d have to look at your wiring and see what modules are powered from the IP fusebox !!...Oh, and welcome to the Forum !!
I have a 2000 C5 that sporadically throws up the infamous "Reduced Engine Power" warning as well as every other warning you could think of. Often when this happens the power windows and power doors also stop working, as does my keyless entry, AC, and ability to open the hatch.
I swapped the battery as I heard low voltage could cause this and have also cleaned all ground wires. I pulled my passenger fuse box today to search for loose or open wires but had no luck.
I can get the problem and messages to go away temporarily by pushing down on the passenger fuse box, but this fix only lasts a week or so (or until I hit a decent-sized bump). This leads me to believe it should be a loose or open wire.
I heard it could be the ECM but I am not convinced that is my issue as, like I said, the issue goes away by simply putting a little pressure on my passenger fuse box.
I did try looking for different threads as I know this is a hot topic, but have had no luck as of yet...
Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated or if you could point me to a thread that would also be helpful.
I have a friend that's been chasing the same problem for two years now. He has many of the same codes, but no current codes (all history). Just yesterday tech told him he might need a new RDCM because it wasn't communicating. If you find a fix please post it. If we do I will post as well. Good Luck
I have a friend that's been chasing the same problem for two years now. He has many of the same codes, but no current codes (all history). Just yesterday tech told him he might need a new RDCM because it wasn't communicating. If you find a fix please post it. If we do I will post as well. Good Luck
Yikes !!...Tell your friend to tell his tech to check the RDCM power and grounds if he can’t communicate with that module...just because it can’t communicate doesn’t mean it’s bad !!
Sounds like another serial data bus issue...if any module (BCM, PCM, HVAC) loses power or ground that power or ground needs to find “its way home” and that’s via your serial data wire and when that happens you’ll get all those DIC warnings plus you’ll see your gas gauge go to E and your water temp gauge maxes out...you also have a lot of U codes which are communication DTC’s...I’d have to look at your wiring and see what modules are powered from the IP fusebox !!...Oh, and welcome to the Forum !!
Im new to the Corvette world and I've got the same problems as the original guy posted and what you said about the gas gauge and temp. When you say serial bus is that the harness in the doors? I'm not sure how to trouble shoot that. Honestly got a used bcm on the way to try that not sure it will help.
No, each module has 1 serial data wire and ALL of those serial data wires come together at 2 splice packs near the BCM...you would be looking at a bad power or ground at any of those modules that might not be communicating !!...videos below for your info !!...the drivers door module has a connector inside the rubber boot when you open the door and that connector goes bad because that door is opened and closed many times.
No, each module has 1 serial data wire and ALL of those serial data wires come together at 2 splice packs near the BCM...you would be looking at a bad power or ground at any of those modules that might not be communicating !!...videos below for your info !!...the drivers door module has a connector inside the rubber boot when you open the door and that connector goes bad because that door is opened and closed many times.
Great information in those videos thank you. So it order to troubleshoot like it was talking about I'm going to need a good scan tool correct? I've seen people talk about the Tech 2 but I have no idea where to get one or equivalent to do those steps. Any suggestions?
First you would want a scan tool that will allow you to see all the modules...you can use a DVOM to troubleshoot (I use a scope and a CAN breakout box) to see if you have either 12 volts or ground on the serial data wire which is pin 2 on the DLC (where you hook up your scan tool to)...here is another good video below !!
The OP of this thread states that problem goes away for a week or so after he presses down on IP fuse block, could problem be something as simple as a loose/dirty connection of the main power cable at the fuse block?