OP, how's the system holding up?

 

Its running good. I've since added a relay for the key in/out wires.

 

Do you ever get the dumb "Security" lamp on?

 

The "security" lamp comes on when the doors are open. I think because from bypassing the VATS. The car thinks there's a key left in and lights up the "security" lamp when the doors are opened.

 

But does it stay like that when you're operating the car?

 

No, it does not stay on. Just when the ignition is off and the doors are open.

 

Cool. This might be a great add for the car. My key fits loosely and sometimes it will back out and give me the security lamp unless I cycle the ignition.

A new lock cylinder will be... Prohibitively expensive.

 

Pretty cool mod. Thanks for sharing!

 

To the OP, did you ever get a chance to do your review video? This seems like a cool mod, and it's pretty cheap.
Also, I did a quick amazon search for "Easyguard ec002" This brought up over a dozen different versions of this system with different numbers and letters after them. I'm not really sure what the difference is with each of them. I would pretty much just want PKE, push button start/stop, and remote start. Other than that, I'd be looking for normal functions(like opening the trunk), and I definitely DON'T want a vibration sensor, or a keypad.. I had an aftermarket alarm on my old mustang that added remote start, and the alarm would go off whenever it rained too hard or the wind blew. I don't want another experience like that. Do you ever have the alarm go off when it shouldn't?

 

Can this be done on an auto trans vehicle ? When I took out my ignition switch, I also had a shift interlock cable ( at least that is my best guess after researching ) attached to the switch and leading to the shifter, I imagine since there will no longer be an ignition switch that this cable is just tucked away, or is this addressed by the relay installation ?

 

I'm not familiar with the automatic transmission cars. I have seen people disable the shifter interlock at the shifter. It sometimes get stuck for whatever reasons. I think its a spring with a pawl. Controlled by the cable you are referring to. Of course if you do this you'll lose the function of the interlock.

 

It is my understanding that the only thing that cable does is prevent the key from being removed from the ignition unless the car is in park, if that is the case and since I would be eliminating the keyed ignition itself, I would be losing the interlock anyway by losing the key.

 

Like I said before I'm not familiar with the automatic cars. In general shifter interlocks prevent shifting out of park without the key. And yes as you stated you will not be able to remove the key without first putting the car into park.

 

Subscribed..

 

So far I have been able to get door locks working with the new fobs, which is a win for me as I had no fobs prior to this, from there I moved on to the trunk release and I am now encountering problems with that. I have tried both of the wiring diagrams in the easyguard manual, with both, I can hear the central unit from easyguard clicking but I get nothing at the hatch release, I have not yet connected anything to the light blue wire in the BCM as I thought I was basically tying into the same wire via the black wire at the hatch release switch. I have done plenty of research trying to find the answers for myself with no luck any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated.
On a side note, for those solely interested in pushstart only, so far I have hooked the ignition wh harneses to the easyguard unit and tried to start the vehicle, it tried to crank twice with no success and then the pushbutton went dark, today one day later my pushbutton now has a red light showing. I have decided to tackle one issue at a time so remote start will probably be the last thing I attempt to get working
If anyone can offer assistance in determining whether the systems on the vette are positive or negative trigger, or how one would determine such a thing, it would be greatly appreciated.
I don't consider myself an unintelligent person, but I am fully aware of my ignorance on this topic, please forgive if I have or do ask any stupid questions.
If I am successful in the long run, I will document all connections necessary for install.
Again, I have tried to educate myself before being a bother about this and I don't know where else to search.

 

Like you said lets try one thing at a time. The door locks are a single negative pulse. You already have that working. The trunk release is a positive single pulse. Its the black wire at the relay. If you are using the same system (easyguard ec002) this will apply. On the main harness there are 3 wires for the trunk release. Purple labeled trunk positive/negative optional, green labeled out put of trunk and a green wire labeled trunk motor. Since the trunk release is a positive pulse trigger you need to wire the purple wire to a 12 volt source. Take the green wire labeled out put of trunk and wire it to the black wire at the trunk release button. The other green wire is not used. Also make sure to ground the 2 black wires from the ec002 harness. Without those nothing is going to work. But sounds like from your post you already did that.

 

I was able to get the hatch working, thank you very much !

 

Hello, great video... I am trying to install the ES002 version of this. It's similar to the EC002, but it is only the push to start button and you use your OEM remotes. The problem I am having is, I have everything wired up correctly but when I push the start button it flashes five or six times and does nothing else. What is supposed to happen is when you unlock a car with an oem remote it enables the car to be started via the push button. I have double and triple checked my wiring and it is correct. I was wondering if you could tell me what wires in the door module are arm and disarm for the factory alarm, and are they positive or negative pulse? I wanted to try to use those wires instead of the lock and unlock wires? I have spoke to Easyguards customer service, and they are saying that the button is flashing because the brain thinks the car is still locked. I was also wondering if having my remotes set too unlock the drivers door with one push, and then another push to unlock the passenger door maybe messing with the system as well. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!

 

Did you bypass the vats? Unlocking with the factory remote will not deactivate this feature. The resistor chip in the key is what allows the car to be started. Hence the need for the bypass/disable.

 

I have a resistor ordered it to permanently do that, but I was just putting the key in the ignition and turning it to the on position while initially hooking everything up.