I take it you left the factory ignition intact and spliced into the wiring. If this is the case that may be your issue. The way the factory ignition works is complex because it does not only start the car but also control the steering lock and vats electronically. If you put your key into the ignition and turn it to the on position I don't think there would be any voltage passing through it until you turn the key to start. With this in mind if you spliced the push button behind the ignition it would not have the voltage needed to crank the starter...ect.

 

No, I hooked up my push to start the same way you hooked up yours. I completely unplugged the wiring from the ignition switch and plug the wires from my push to start module into that. I also did the relay mod for the key in / key out function. The vats has its own wiring and I just left that plugged in and put the key in ignition and turned it to on so it would see the resistor pellet in the key. I am leaning towards my control box for the push to start being bad, just want to rule everything else out first before I send it back.

 

If you unplugged the harness from the ignition there would be no power to power the vats. I think that vats has to have power. Its not just reading resistance from the key. Voltage goes through the key's resistor and the car reads how much resistance is present. When you unplugged the harness from the ignition there would be no power available to complete this.

 

Can this be done if you do not have a key at all currently? Just bought a C5 project that came with no key. So I have no key, which means I can’t measure the VATS ohms on original key. Seller is searching for original key, but not looking good and no way to figure out the VATS ohm to get the correct key. Wondering if this could be done instead of getting a new key or if I need the key with the correct VATS anyway before doing this? Trying to get around getting it towed to the dealer to get a key cut and have them find the VATS info. If I can do this instead of getting a key I’d rather do that. Car is not currently running so it would need to be towed to dealer if that is the only way.

 

You do not need the physical key. You would need the vats info though. As you said the dealer will be able to provide that. I don't think you need to bring the car to them. They can look it up with the vin #. Alternatively there are vats bypass kits for sale that come with all the possible resistors. Get one of those and try until you get the correct one. Good luck.

 

I was thinking the same thing with one of these resistor kits...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/19078697185...mis&media=COPY

but wouldn't you need the key to see if the car will start once you have the right resistor in place? I guess if you don't have a key, you could take the lock cylinder out and take it to a locksmith and have them make a key that will turn it. Then you could try different resistors in the kit and see which one works. That way you wouldn't have to take the whole car to the dealer. The ignition the switch is really easy to remove.

 

Thank you both for the reply. The dealer I spoke with said he can cut a key based on the vin, but couldn’t see VATS info and would need the car to hook it up to get that. I seen the resistors, and may pull the cylinder and have a standard key made to explore the resistor route. I appreciate the info!

 

If you have the vats information and bypass it with a resistor, there would be no need for a physical key. The push to start kit would replace the key and ignition cylinder completely.

 

VETTEYOG, not sure if you figured this out yet, but I had the same problem and just figured out my issue. The ES002 system does not look for positive or ground wires to be connected, it is actually watching for current, kind of like a test light or multimeter. So when it sees 12v running across the line it is connected to it reacts to that and either arms or disarms. In my case I was connecting it to an aftermarket remote door lock system and just providing it a connection to ground and it was not working. As soon as I put a test light to it, the system sensed the current from the test light and it started working as expected.

One thing to consider is that based on this depending on where you hook up your wire, I would think unlocking the door with the door lock button would also disarm the system.

 

​​​​​​Thanks for the response, what wire(s) did you use the signal arm and disarm for your alarm? When I initially hooked it up it I would start the car, but was not recognizing the lock unlock feature as it supposed to. I tried using the positive feed right from the door lock actuator as well and I didn't work either.

 

Sorry, I won't be much help there. I found this post while searching for a solution to my problem on google. Mine is actually in a 68 Mustang (sorry if that is a dirty word around here) so no unlock button to be concerned about. I would say you would be looking for a wire that comes directly from the factory keyless entry module (if that is even a thing) and does not get 12v when the unlock button is pressed, but does when using the key fob.

I did wonder if there was a feature built into ES002 that would only disarm when the system saw 12v on the unlock and the brown parking light wire, but I don't think that is the case. Not really sure the purpose of the brown wire, maybe Easyguard support can provide a solution.

 

Actually I stand corrected, I forgot I connected my brown wire and that is exactly what the system does, Looks for 12v on both unlock and brown light wire. I disconnected the brown wire and the system would not unlock. So maybe you have an issue with that wire as well.

 

Did you ever figure anything out? I also have the ES002 and I can start the car, but locking does not disable the start button. I set the #2 switch to always allow starting once disabled and can get around it for the time being, but don’t want the light left on for obvious reason.

I connected to the door lock control module red/black - lock and orange/black unlock with no luck. Also tried the gray wire that is supposed to send the signal to the lock actual with no luck either.


edit: I figured my problem out. I wired the brown wire just to my running light switch, not to the actual turn signal for it to get the pulse. I did use the lock output wires on the smaller gray and black connectors on the LDCM. Lock was on connector C - gray wire. Unlock was on connector D - tan wire.

For right now I have to lock/unlock then flip my running lights on/off so it can get the pulse lol to turn on/off the start switch. I’ll wire it up to the actual running light tomorrow 😅

Question for anyone else, I was thinking about running a relay or something to the fuel pump for additional security… anyone do anything similar with this kit? Or maybe instead of looping the resistor for the VATS, maybe wire it on a switch?

 

I'm in the middle of my own install, can you elaborate on this?

 

I installed one of these kits in my car. I did not wire in a key in/out. I didn't think I needed it so I just disabled the chime. After I left my lights on I wired it up. I made a few videos on YouTube if you search c5 push button start.