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Torque Tube Questions

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Old Feb 8, 2021 | 07:41 PM
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Hi all,

I just picked up my first Corvette, a 2004 C5Z. I bought it with the intention of auto crossing, which it has been set up for and competing in for over 5 years. The previous owner told me that the transmission was went through 10,000 miles ago (roughly 6ish years), as well as the clutch being replaced. He mentioned before I saw the car that the torque tube bushings/bearings were not replaced when the rear subframe was dropped for the clutch and transmission, and there was some noise. I knew going into it that I would most likely have to drop the rear subframe to rebuild the torque tube. I was wondering if the problem really was the bushings/bearings as I would rather not have to drop the rear subframe. It makes slight noise when not in gear and idling with the clutch not engaged, when the clutch is engaged the noise goes away. When driving it makes a slight clunking noise, but its not too loud, and I do not really feel it in the car. It sounds like it is coming from the middle of the car. From my understanding these cars normally make a little noise at idle in neutral, but not when driving. I'm sure there are many threads like this, but any help would be appreciated as I could not find any issue that were just like mine.

Thanks!

Last edited by Autoxz; Feb 8, 2021 at 07:46 PM.
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Old Feb 9, 2021 | 08:30 PM
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The torque tube is basically a long input shaft to the transmission, with two couplers (rag joints) and three ball bearings. When the clutch pedal is down and the clutch is disengaged, the torque tube should stop rotating, so if you get noise then it's likely to be either the release bearing or the pilot bearing. With the pedal up and the clutch engaged the torque tube is spinning at engine speed, if you're stopped and in neutral then rattling and banging could easily be the couplers giving up the ghost. Pulling the trans and not going through the tube is ludicrous. The O.E. couplers are well made and last many, many miles, but they are rubber and fabric, and will eventually fail just due to elapsed time. Not a lot of trust in 17 year old tires.
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Old Feb 11, 2021 | 01:08 AM
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Thanks redzg,

I figured what the previous owner said had merit, however I just wanted to make sure that I did not have to drop the rear end if I didn't have to. Looks like that is the case, however.
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Old Feb 11, 2021 | 08:24 PM
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Not trying to convince you. I'd want to make sure I'd exhausted all other alternatives before dropping the drive train. I had my clutch changed last year and had already planned on have the tube done at the same time. Original couplers were cracked in multiple places, but not catastrophically. Bearings were much looser than new, but again, not catastrophically.
I seem to recall reading of others running the car with the rear wheels off the ground to locate noise and vibration sources. A bit too risky for my blood.
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Old Jul 17, 2023 | 12:33 PM
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The new driveshaft and the old stage 3 monster clutch kit with flywheel. I will have the clutch kit up for sale, apparently no issues with it, not what exploded, rather, the couplers are what that disintegrated dust is lol.
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Old Jul 19, 2023 | 11:30 AM
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You are dropping the rear subframe regardless of where the issue is whether it be clutch or TT.
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