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The front part of the Ignition switch has the spring loaded contacts that press against the key resistor pellet, but if it sometimes doesn't work your Security light won't turn off. I am afraid that your BCM might be the cause of your no start problem. You might try disconnecting the negative battery cable for a few minutes and see if that works, pointing to the BCM. Hope this helps.
[[[ UPDATE ]]] - So after doing the TDR swap in my C5, my starting issues went away....only for awhile. Turns out I had a battery of issues. Excessive heat from my headers had weakened the starter solenoid, and when removing the starter I found the wires were bare and crumbling away. So what I hoped would stop at the relay, turned into removing the header & swapping the starter out after fixing the wires. Which all turned out to be a good thing anyway, as I ended up finding other melted lines connecting to the O2 sensors.
So after a few days of busted knuckles, MANY cuss words & timeouts, starter went in and all new extension lines for the O2 sensors were installed (all wrapped in DEI heat sleeves) and all new O2 sensors went in as well.....because why not! Everything was apart anyway! All of which btw I sourced and bought from "Rock Auto" for a fraction of the cost of my local Dealers and only waited at most 5 days for delivery as opposed to 2 to 4 weeks from GM!!
Good to hear that you got it all straightened out, love headers the look, the sound but because of the heat generated, I have never installed them on my cars.
Before I installed mine I coated the headers and cross pipe with Titanium Ceramic at my shop. Never had a heat issue until recently, as I had overheating troubles which made the ceramic brittle and less efficient at moving the heat out of the engine. So.....next project is removing the headers again and recoating them. But I'll save that fun for a winter project. Pretty happy with my coating as it lasted over ten years!
Sometimes a hard starting LS motor may be due to a bad cam position sensor, or bad wiring in the sensor circuit. This is far more common on the front timing cover mounted cam sensors. Happened to me once. The serpentine belt ate thru a poorly routed pigtail......
Last edited by grinder11; Jun 10, 2021 at 04:46 PM.
I’m brand new here and just wanted to say you guys are awesome! I have a 2002 zo6 that wouldn’t crank. I tested the fuses under the passenger footwell, pulled the ignition switch and tested it, finally tried jumping the starter at the TDR per recommendation of Mmartinez. At first I was just getting some sparking on my jump wire. Then the starter bucked once. I tried a regular keyed start and it fired right up. Bad starter, right?
I’m brand new here and just wanted to say you guys are awesome! I have a 2002 zo6 that wouldn’t crank. I tested the fuses under the passenger footwell, pulled the ignition switch and tested it, finally tried jumping the starter at the TDR per recommendation of Mmartinez. At first I was just getting some sparking on my jump wire. Then the starter bucked once. I tried a regular keyed start and it fired right up. Bad starter, right?
Welcome to the Forum! . Help is aplenty here as the wealth of knowledge is vast in this Forum. Guys are great to communicate with and can save a guy much time on troubleshooting!
Could just be the starter in your case. If you don't have headers then that might be an easy swap for you if you can get under the car and starters are pretty inexpensive at least. I went with Bosch and it was a ten minute install once I got passed the Headers.
Honestly I can’t confirm factory or aftermarket headers. I know it has aftermrket exhaust of some variety but I don’t know how far forward it goes. My buddy has a shop and now that I can drive it over there, we’ll throw it on the lift and see what’s what.