Good afternoon—-I’m getting to know my 1998 C5. Upon purchase, with a single key, I noticed sometimes the key wouldn’t turn, however after jiggling, turning over it would turn & start the motor. Stupidly I tried to free it up w a squirt of silicone and not it’s frozen. Several times I’ve gotten it to work after much time wiggling it but it is now a drive way fixture. Questions.

Both the key and ignition seem worn. If I get a new key by providing the dealer a Vin code, is it possible this might work? If I order a new lock module, I assume it must be programmed at a dealer? Then I have differing ignition keys from the door locks? Is this something a novice mechanic can install himself—or might I add to existing damage. The transmission is locked, but not the steering so I assume the steering lock has been bypassed? The electrical components seem fine, I simply cannot twist the key?

thank you—I looked at the sticky’s but didn’t see my issue?

dan

 

Time for a locksmith... a good one that isnt out to screw you... preferably one with a shop and not a van that comes to you(along with the $100 service call for him too come to you).

I went through this on a 2007 Chevy Colorado a few months ago. Same key as the C5, but the Colorado doesnt have the resistor pellets.

I got the lock cylinder assembly out of the truck(had to pull the steering wheel, which wont be the case in the Corvette) and took it in. He was able to get the key out with a lot of "finagling" LOL. You cant pull the lock cylinder out of the housing without being able to turn it. He took the whole lock cylinder apart and inspected the wafers(they arent pins) and said they were a bit worn. My key was pretty worn. He wasnt able to cut me a key based on the VIN because their system was down, but had me go to the dealership and they cut me a key based on the VIN. I took the new, sharp key back to him along with the cylinder and he replaced a few wafers with new ones of the exact same code. The whole assembly worked slick as snot after that.

Also he told me never spray anything liquid in the lock cylinders, only dry graphite lube.

So, get a dealer to cut you a key so you are starting fresh. Get the lock cylinder wafers inspected and cleaned. Replace any wafers that are worn with the same coded wafer...

The whole process cost me like 65 or 70 bucks...and a whole damn day of running around.

 

Try a new key first before replacing Ignition lock cylinder or calling a locksmith. You will need the cars registration and a driver's license as ID. Yes you have a column lock bypass if your steering wheel doesn't lock.

 

I had a ignition issue with my key turning OK but no start. I squirted some CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner in the ignition and the car started. Now I add this 'cleaning' to my yearly must do list.