Budget radiator upgrade recommendations
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,036
Likes: 119
Budget radiator upgrade recommendations
So it's summer, and temps are sneaking up close to 100 with absurd humidity. I was taking a 20 minute drive yesterday around noon, and temps were getting quite toasty at highway speeds (235). I've confirmed coolant is full, fans are blowing, core isn't blocked, coolant was changed out last year when I had the pump off, etc. My car has a 6lr iron block in it, so I think with the increased capacity and worse thermal characteristics, I need a better radiator.
That said, I can't afford a DeWitts. Is there anything cheaper you all would recommend? I know you get what you pay for, and all that, but $600+ is a bit beyond the pale if you ask me. I've upgraded radiators on several cars over the years, and I've never had one cost more than $300 or so, so you can imagine my sticker shock.
That said, I can't afford a DeWitts. Is there anything cheaper you all would recommend? I know you get what you pay for, and all that, but $600+ is a bit beyond the pale if you ask me. I've upgraded radiators on several cars over the years, and I've never had one cost more than $300 or so, so you can imagine my sticker shock.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 289
Likes: 102
From: Texas
Hi JRP1588. So, you could do some checks first, like take the radiator out, flush it thoroughly, makes sure there is nothing stuck on it to reduce airflow. But, besides the basics, my understanding is the angle of the radiator is also part of the issue. You want it as straight up and down as possible, not angled. That usually means another smaller radiator. On top of that, or maybe instead of that, it was explained to me that what you want to do is basically build a way to seal and force the air to go to the radiator. Your air dam angle and height needs to be just right, and then if you can essentially box that all together to force the air will also help drop the temps. You might also consider thinking about lower the fan temp startup so it gets in there sooner to start the cooling process. I hear you about the radiator costs. Not exactly excited but I am looking at a similar thing, although my temps are a little lower than yours, I'd still like them even lower in summer if I can swing it.
Hrere's someone who made a splitter and some relocation that might give you some ideas.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...project-4.html
Hrere's someone who made a splitter and some relocation that might give you some ideas.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...project-4.html
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2013
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Drifting
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: NW Chicago
St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14-'15
My ECP manual trans radiator is going on 5 years, so far all good. Had a 17 year old Fluidyne that failed and they needed the old radiator to duplicate since they don't stock Corvette radiators. The ECP was a cheap replacement until I got the Fluidyne back. I still have my old Fluidyne that I never sent in, lol.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Akron Ohio
2025 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Modified
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
Take a look at BeCool. Budget friendly and made in the USA. We put one in my buddies track car and it fit great and looked well made. I will probably be doing one in mine soon too.
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Drifting
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,552
Likes: 324
From: Mid Ohio
A few yrs ago I did a cheap all aluminum rad in my C4. Here is a post I made about it --> https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-radiator.html
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 12,864
Likes: 4,668
So it's summer, and temps are sneaking up close to 100 with absurd humidity. I was taking a 20 minute drive yesterday around noon, and temps were getting quite toasty at highway speeds (235). I've confirmed coolant is full, fans are blowing, core isn't blocked, coolant was changed out last year when I had the pump off, etc. My car has a 6lr iron block in it, so I think with the increased capacity and worse thermal characteristics, I need a better radiator.
That said, I can't afford a DeWitts. Is there anything cheaper you all would recommend? I know you get what you pay for, and all that, but $600+ is a bit beyond the pale if you ask me. I've upgraded radiators on several cars over the years, and I've never had one cost more than $300 or so, so you can imagine my sticker shock.
That said, I can't afford a DeWitts. Is there anything cheaper you all would recommend? I know you get what you pay for, and all that, but $600+ is a bit beyond the pale if you ask me. I've upgraded radiators on several cars over the years, and I've never had one cost more than $300 or so, so you can imagine my sticker shock.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,036
Likes: 119
There's a USED Ron Davis on eBay in my price range, but it's not technically the right radiator. It's got the oil cooler on it, which my car doesn't have.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,320
Likes: 242
From: NW Chicago
St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14-'15
My ECP manual trans radiator is going on 5 years, so far all good. Had a 17 year old Fluidyne that failed and they needed the old radiator to duplicate since they don't stock Corvette radiators. The ECP was a cheap replacement until I got the Fluidyne back. I still have my old Fluidyne that I never sent in, lol.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 2,306
Likes: 747
If you're concerned with cost/budget, why not just leave it the way it is? 235 is still within normal operating temps for a C5. The factory fans are programmed to turn on high at that temp. If it's not going very high over that, you're totally fine.
With that being said, if you really want a more affordable (and easier to install) option, Sac City makes a Cool-It product that allows you to turn on your fans when you want. It's about $100 or so. Turning your fans on earlier is a proven way to reduce temps. Most people do it via a tune, but this would be a cheaper option.
With that being said, if you really want a more affordable (and easier to install) option, Sac City makes a Cool-It product that allows you to turn on your fans when you want. It's about $100 or so. Turning your fans on earlier is a proven way to reduce temps. Most people do it via a tune, but this would be a cheaper option.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,036
Likes: 119
If you're concerned with cost/budget, why not just leave it the way it is? 235 is still within normal operating temps for a C5. The factory fans are programmed to turn on high at that temp. If it's not going very high over that, you're totally fine.
With that being said, if you really want a more affordable (and easier to install) option, Sac City makes a Cool-It product that allows you to turn on your fans when you want. It's about $100 or so. Turning your fans on earlier is a proven way to reduce temps. Most people do it via a tune, but this would be a cheaper option.
With that being said, if you really want a more affordable (and easier to install) option, Sac City makes a Cool-It product that allows you to turn on your fans when you want. It's about $100 or so. Turning your fans on earlier is a proven way to reduce temps. Most people do it via a tune, but this would be a cheaper option.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 12,414
Likes: 1,750
From: DFW TX
The stock radiator easily handles even a high output engine for 'normal' driving. Ensure the 'scoop' under the radiator is there so it gets full flow.
I have a LS2 based 427 making 550whp. Stock radiator. Works fine. I actually watch the engine oil temp more than the coolant temp. It takes a good 10min or so for it to come fully up to temp.
Engine stays 225-235, Ac ice cold, 100+F weather.
previous 2000 FRC was similar, iron 402ci LQ4 making 500whp, stock cooling system. current owner takes it auto-xing and 1-mile events. It stays cool. It did overheat the oil during HPDE's so they added an oil cooler.
I have a LS2 based 427 making 550whp. Stock radiator. Works fine. I actually watch the engine oil temp more than the coolant temp. It takes a good 10min or so for it to come fully up to temp.
Engine stays 225-235, Ac ice cold, 100+F weather.
previous 2000 FRC was similar, iron 402ci LQ4 making 500whp, stock cooling system. current owner takes it auto-xing and 1-mile events. It stays cool. It did overheat the oil during HPDE's so they added an oil cooler.
Last edited by acroy; Jun 18, 2021 at 09:25 AM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,036
Likes: 119
The stock radiator easily handles even a high output engine for 'normal' driving. Ensure the 'scoop' under the radiator is there so it gets full flow.
I have a LS2 based 427 making 550whp. Stock radiator. Works fine. I actually watch the engine oil temp more than the coolant temp. It takes a good 10min or so for it to come fully up to temp.
Engine stays 225-235, Ac ice cold, 100+F weather.
I have a LS2 based 427 making 550whp. Stock radiator. Works fine. I actually watch the engine oil temp more than the coolant temp. It takes a good 10min or so for it to come fully up to temp.
Engine stays 225-235, Ac ice cold, 100+F weather.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 2,306
Likes: 747
Well, the thing is, it was a 20 minute trip, and I was traveling about 60mph. From my understanding, at highway speeds, the fans are basically a fart in the wind compared to the air already blowing into the radiator from the movement of the car. I can't be sure, but I FELT like the temps were going to keep creeping up if I hadn't reached my destination.
I know you said the core isn't blocked, but when's the last time you cleaned out the radiator shroud cavity, condenser fins, and radiator fins? Stupid question of course, but the front center air dam is in place, correct? That alone can wreak havoc at speeds if it's not there. And I'm assuming you're using the OEM radiator cavity/shroud still?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 2,306
Likes: 747
And another dumb question, you don't have a front lip that blocks airflow to the air dam, do you? lol
Welp, if you're really oppose to spending $600 (which I don't blame you), you can always throw in a Trackspec center vent for a couple hundred bucks (or find any cheaper vent that will work). That'll help pull air out.
I honestly don't see why a stock radiator wouldn't do the job if the system is in good health otherwise.
I'm running out of cheaper ideas here.
Welp, if you're really oppose to spending $600 (which I don't blame you), you can always throw in a Trackspec center vent for a couple hundred bucks (or find any cheaper vent that will work). That'll help pull air out.
I honestly don't see why a stock radiator wouldn't do the job if the system is in good health otherwise.
I'm running out of cheaper ideas here.