Rod broke on engine. Need new engine recommendations.
Le Mans Master
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Ack
Somehow you are consistently incorrect in every sentence
Wrong as he is clearly concerned about the weight of Iron Block. And yes it makes one hell of a difference. Dear people considering Iron vs Aluminum: do research. There have been MANY complaints from people who didn't realize how much 125lbs is on the front of a vehicle. Also 100lbs is worth something like 10 horsepower so, displacement per displacement there is some transfer between the two engines in terms of non-rotating mass that is accountable for in the power equation which power literally means and is defined by how far you can move some mass in how much time.
Wrong again as you fail to specify "outperform"- are we talking rally, road racing? because the Aluminum engine will outperform the IRON engine, it isn't always about torque or power.
The 5.3L (and other smaller displacements) may also have an advantage in terms of RPM capability that allows it to produce more power than the 6L as well, as max piston velocity and stroke length among other factors are related to an engine's balance, frequency, susceptibility to failure when high RPM Is involved.
sigh, wrong again
I submit that there is a replacement for displacement as A factory154 cubic inch engine from 1995 can reliably 700rwhp which is more than you'll ever see from a reliable 6L daily driver setup N/A. It will also 28 to 30 miles per gallon and six speed transmission just like the 6L. Both Nissan's and Toyota's 6-speed Getrag transmission is even more capable/sturdy than the 6L variety are routinely attached to, it was designed with that kind of power in mind and 8,000rpm shifts which by the way both Nissan's 2.6L and Toyota's 3L are factory capable of 8,000rpm as they include solid over head valvetrain hardware.
The replacement is the turbocharger. It allows you to make any power from any engine. Thus we should choose the engine based on it's availability, cost, ease of installation/maintenance, and not how much displacement it has.
For example my favorite engine is Toyota 2jz-gte but they cost too much. I'd rather use the free LM7 that are readily available and people will give you free if you look hard enough. Both engines weigh approx the same and support the same power but one is just way more expensive to replace.
Unless you turbocharge both of them in which case they both make the exact same power- almost. The 5.3L will make more power due to reduced friction, reduced momentum loss, and reduced rotating mass and let's not forget the reduced physical mass of the engine which also assists power to move the vehicle.
It isn't "my" philosophy. It is the general, professional route. For example
https://www.theturboforums.com/threa.../#post-2049195
This is just one of thousands of helpful posts from experienced turbocharging professional car builders strewn across the internet.
Google "sloppy mechanics" and count how many cars dyno over 600rwhp using the factory engines.
Sorry but you are so blind it hurts, please do research. I am not trying to be mean Just you have no idea what is happening in the world.
You must INSPECT them. It is a mystery that you must become a detective and unravel how an engine was treated. I've inspected a THOUSAND engines from over seas and I learned how to spot the good ones. I posted what to look for. Just because you have trouble using your eyes and nose and senses to detect a good engine doesn't mean everybody is that way. Worst case scenario is you buy a few cheap engines and pick the best one sell the parts out from the rest. Still cheaper than building an engine!! And then having it fail two three times before you realize.... its out of your depth!
Wrong again! I think you are just used to Naturally aspirated engines, V8 from chevrolet tend to fall apart because when they are NA and in a car like corvette people redline the living @#(*# out of them and that is what destroys and NA engine in short order.
In comparison, Toyota Supra and Nissan Skyline are "driven hard" as you so put it, redline to near 8,000 rpm and those engines are still around after 250,000 miles and twenty years!
The fact is that turbocharging preserves the bottom end, it protects the rod cap and rod bearing, it enabled very high RPM without the consequences of rod cap and rod bolt failure. Those turbo engines just like V8 engines can sustain 250,000 miles with very little if any wear to their bearing systems thanks to the exhaust gas pressure which protects the rod bearing on the exhaust stroke.
Your post was 100% inaccurate
Somehow you are consistently incorrect in every sentence
Wrong as he is clearly concerned about the weight of Iron Block. And yes it makes one hell of a difference. Dear people considering Iron vs Aluminum: do research. There have been MANY complaints from people who didn't realize how much 125lbs is on the front of a vehicle. Also 100lbs is worth something like 10 horsepower so, displacement per displacement there is some transfer between the two engines in terms of non-rotating mass that is accountable for in the power equation which power literally means and is defined by how far you can move some mass in how much time.
Wrong again as you fail to specify "outperform"- are we talking rally, road racing? because the Aluminum engine will outperform the IRON engine, it isn't always about torque or power.
The 5.3L (and other smaller displacements) may also have an advantage in terms of RPM capability that allows it to produce more power than the 6L as well, as max piston velocity and stroke length among other factors are related to an engine's balance, frequency, susceptibility to failure when high RPM Is involved.
sigh, wrong again
I submit that there is a replacement for displacement as A factory154 cubic inch engine from 1995 can reliably 700rwhp which is more than you'll ever see from a reliable 6L daily driver setup N/A. It will also 28 to 30 miles per gallon and six speed transmission just like the 6L. Both Nissan's and Toyota's 6-speed Getrag transmission is even more capable/sturdy than the 6L variety are routinely attached to, it was designed with that kind of power in mind and 8,000rpm shifts which by the way both Nissan's 2.6L and Toyota's 3L are factory capable of 8,000rpm as they include solid over head valvetrain hardware.
The replacement is the turbocharger. It allows you to make any power from any engine. Thus we should choose the engine based on it's availability, cost, ease of installation/maintenance, and not how much displacement it has.
For example my favorite engine is Toyota 2jz-gte but they cost too much. I'd rather use the free LM7 that are readily available and people will give you free if you look hard enough. Both engines weigh approx the same and support the same power but one is just way more expensive to replace.
Unless you turbocharge both of them in which case they both make the exact same power- almost. The 5.3L will make more power due to reduced friction, reduced momentum loss, and reduced rotating mass and let's not forget the reduced physical mass of the engine which also assists power to move the vehicle.
It isn't "my" philosophy. It is the general, professional route. For example
https://www.theturboforums.com/threa.../#post-2049195
This is just one of thousands of helpful posts from experienced turbocharging professional car builders strewn across the internet.
Google "sloppy mechanics" and count how many cars dyno over 600rwhp using the factory engines.
Sorry but you are so blind it hurts, please do research. I am not trying to be mean Just you have no idea what is happening in the world.
You must INSPECT them. It is a mystery that you must become a detective and unravel how an engine was treated. I've inspected a THOUSAND engines from over seas and I learned how to spot the good ones. I posted what to look for. Just because you have trouble using your eyes and nose and senses to detect a good engine doesn't mean everybody is that way. Worst case scenario is you buy a few cheap engines and pick the best one sell the parts out from the rest. Still cheaper than building an engine!! And then having it fail two three times before you realize.... its out of your depth!
Wrong again! I think you are just used to Naturally aspirated engines, V8 from chevrolet tend to fall apart because when they are NA and in a car like corvette people redline the living @#(*# out of them and that is what destroys and NA engine in short order.
In comparison, Toyota Supra and Nissan Skyline are "driven hard" as you so put it, redline to near 8,000 rpm and those engines are still around after 250,000 miles and twenty years!
The fact is that turbocharging preserves the bottom end, it protects the rod cap and rod bearing, it enabled very high RPM without the consequences of rod cap and rod bolt failure. Those turbo engines just like V8 engines can sustain 250,000 miles with very little if any wear to their bearing systems thanks to the exhaust gas pressure which protects the rod bearing on the exhaust stroke.
Your post was 100% inaccurate
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: South Western Ontario
I didn't read anything past the part where he proved he just wants to prove his superior turbo knowledge even though I was posting about naturally asperated engines. But, it'd be stupidity to try and point that out again when someone has such a love affair for the L33 engine. Actually, I might just try since he so badly feels the need to be personally insulting.
Last edited by lionelhutz; Nov 8, 2021 at 08:37 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,152
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
I don't have to do any research. What I posted was about a NATURALLY ASPERATED engine (PERIOD).
None of your ranting crap about turbos applied and you're misquoting me to use it as an excuse to prove how specially smart you are.
FYI, I helped a buddy with his turbo 6L turbo project this summer. I know what a turbo can do, everyone here does. The OP does not want to dump way over 10K into the car, he just wants to drive it. So what obsessive compulsive need makes you rant on about turbos in a thread that isn't about a turbo LS build?
None of your ranting crap about turbos applied and you're misquoting me to use it as an excuse to prove how specially smart you are.
FYI, I helped a buddy with his turbo 6L turbo project this summer. I know what a turbo can do, everyone here does. The OP does not want to dump way over 10K into the car, he just wants to drive it. So what obsessive compulsive need makes you rant on about turbos in a thread that isn't about a turbo LS build?
Last edited by lionelhutz; Nov 8, 2021 at 08:54 PM.
Le Mans Master
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From: Akron Ohio
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Not getting into the 5.3 vs 6.0 debate here, but the L33 would be a viable option if you choose to rebuild. There are about 6 longblocks within an hour drive from my house right now on FB marketplace for $350ea. You can safely bore it to match the LS1 (3.898) and use all the LS1 stuff on the block (sensors, heads, etc.) and its aluminum. The Summit Pro line of forged pistons is an absolute bargain, new bearings, throw a cam in it and some low budgets heads and you could have a very fun 400+hp engine in your toy for a lot less than some of these crate options.
Race Director
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Not getting into the 5.3 vs 6.0 debate here, but the L33 would be a viable option if you choose to rebuild. There are about 6 longblocks within an hour drive from my house right now on FB marketplace for $350ea. You can safely bore it to match the LS1 (3.898) and use all the LS1 stuff on the block (sensors, heads, etc.) and its aluminum. The Summit Pro line of forged pistons is an absolute bargain, new bearings, throw a cam in it and some low budgets heads and you could have a very fun 400+hp engine in your toy for a lot less than some of these crate options.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,152
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
Not getting into the 5.3 vs 6.0 debate here, but the L33 would be a viable option if you choose to rebuild. There are about 6 longblocks within an hour drive from my house right now on FB marketplace for $350ea. You can safely bore it to match the LS1 (3.898) and use all the LS1 stuff on the block (sensors, heads, etc.) and its aluminum. The Summit Pro line of forged pistons is an absolute bargain, new bearings, throw a cam in it and some low budgets heads and you could have a very fun 400+hp engine in your toy for a lot less than some of these crate options.
It's very hard to find any of the rarer LS engines around here. Heck, even finding a good LS engines of any kind that the seller doesn't think is made of gold is hard.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 9,698
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From: Akron Ohio
2025 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Modified
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
That's an nice option if you can find cheap blocks. That Summit stuff certainly is a bargain. Their rods and pistons are what my buddy put in his engine.
It's very hard to find any of the rarer LS engines around here. Heck, even finding a good LS engines of any kind that the seller doesn't think is made of gold is hard.
It's very hard to find any of the rarer LS engines around here. Heck, even finding a good LS engines of any kind that the seller doesn't think is made of gold is hard.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 303
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From: Houston Texas
Interesting discussion. There are a lot of opinions being presented, lots of knowledge and experience here and I appreciate the discussion.
I don't think I want to go the L33 route with a turbo and attain 700+ hp - I think I would shred through the rest of the drivetrain (~140k miles on the t56 and diff currently). How much hp/abuse can the stock drivetrain take? Sounds like $$$ on transmission/diff rebuild. It also sounds like a route that would require more time than I have with three kids under 5 years old. They love to work with me in the garage, but their help is usually comprised of rearranging all the sockets and wrenches and scattering tools throughout the garage.
I feel like an L33 with a cam would be inexpensive and might get me to 400hp. I would have a slightly faster car while keeping the rest of my drivetrain safe. In a few years, I can always swap pistons and throw on a turbo and upgrade my drivetrain if I decide I am too slow. Can an L33 or any LS be reliably rebuilt? If not why, what makes rebuilding any different from a factory-assembled engine?
I don't think I want to go the L33 route with a turbo and attain 700+ hp - I think I would shred through the rest of the drivetrain (~140k miles on the t56 and diff currently). How much hp/abuse can the stock drivetrain take? Sounds like $$$ on transmission/diff rebuild. It also sounds like a route that would require more time than I have with three kids under 5 years old. They love to work with me in the garage, but their help is usually comprised of rearranging all the sockets and wrenches and scattering tools throughout the garage.
I feel like an L33 with a cam would be inexpensive and might get me to 400hp. I would have a slightly faster car while keeping the rest of my drivetrain safe. In a few years, I can always swap pistons and throw on a turbo and upgrade my drivetrain if I decide I am too slow. Can an L33 or any LS be reliably rebuilt? If not why, what makes rebuilding any different from a factory-assembled engine?
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Safety Car
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From: Portland OR
The L33 is a viable option. Bolts straight in. While it is 20 cubes smaller, it’s the same stroke and has better heads.
Add the right cam and it will run well.
Since you will have the heads off to do the cam, I’d freshen them with a nice perf valve job. They rarely have valve guide issues. Also have better rods.
LS engines rebuild just fine. I find them very easy to assemble.
Add the right cam and it will run well.
Since you will have the heads off to do the cam, I’d freshen them with a nice perf valve job. They rarely have valve guide issues. Also have better rods.
LS engines rebuild just fine. I find them very easy to assemble.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Akron Ohio
2025 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Modified
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
Yeah nothing wrong with a rebuilt engine. Just like anything else, as long as its done correctly it will last a long long time.
Safety Car
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From: South Florida
The L33 is a viable option. Bolts straight in. While it is 20 cubes smaller, it’s the same stroke and has better heads.
Add the right cam and it will run well.
Since you will have the heads off to do the cam, I’d freshen them with a nice perf valve job. They rarely have valve guide issues. Also have better rods.
Add the right cam and it will run well.
Since you will have the heads off to do the cam, I’d freshen them with a nice perf valve job. They rarely have valve guide issues. Also have better rods.
I recommend altima fans 93-97, cheap twins and very powerful if they will fit, if you ever need another set of fans. I used them for lots of different engines always turbo and 400-800rwhp never any issues and they are super cheap
reocmmend full length exhaust
I know its annoying to run a full exhaust but it doesn't need to be, you can use small diameter tube, its fine to choke the engine a bit when you want comfort.
Just use a cutout for when you want the full power back.
Use 2 mufflers and resonator for absolutely stealth and you'd be surprised how much power you can still make through a small system with the turbo (maybe youd be surprised)
4l80e - a monster but the overdrive might be worth it if you could use some MPG for long trips. I get 18 city / 22 highway average with my 3000lbs, gear 3.5:1, 27.4"Tall tire 4l80e setup. It could probably be raised to 25mpg or 26mpg if I you used 3.2:1 gear and a slightly higher compression than 9.5:1 like my 5.3 is.
wideband a bit too close to turbine for gasoline, not sure if you ever run gasoline but when the EGT reaches around 1400*F the AEM and similar widebands will read rich (wrongly rich). Usually need 3-4 feet of pipe away from turbine for constant output situations (like a boat at WOT for long periods or full mile racing stuff)
get sleeves for plug wires, noticed your bare wires. I have 40k on my first set of wires and pretty impressed with the sleeves from ebay (cheap sleeves from ebay seem to work good). Exhaust wrap, coatings, sleeves, blankets, shields, layers, etc... Use any kind of insulation on the exhaust, the more the better, keep it out of the engine bay and conserve kinetic energy in exhaust (flow work, work done by hot moving exhaust gas flowing through a tube).
ditch 90* elbows, use a metal elbow and only straight couplers if possible,
This is just from twenty years of fooling with intercooler plumbing. In 2005 I started welding up my own systems and after I made a hundred or so I got really good at it and found out the best way to set one up is ONLY Using straight hard pipe connections between very short lengths of straight couplers. This usually makes it much easier to attach and remove the pipes as well as reducing potential leaks and fitment issues.
Finally,
"Only one concern. It smokes on decel after I lift at the finish line. There is no oil in the intake, and the plugs show no signs of oil either. So a little puzzled there. "
It sounds like you need a full PCV system yet. It is esoteric but it shouldn't be; Add a supra 95-98 TT PCV valve inline with the OEM Chevrolet PCV valve and connect it to the intake manifold like OEM pcv. We want to replicate the OEM pcv system from the supra. The other valve cover goes to the compressor inlet, that is WOT PCV. And finally the air filter has to create some pressure drop for best effect, especially when piston ring gaps are open and using forged pistons with large piston wall clearances at low temperatures (Not fully expanded during cold start and normal driving = needs more PCV action).
Here is video of pressure test and showing my PCV system for my 5.3L
Safety Car
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From: South Florida
Whenever I get the brain pain from looking at diagrams and words trying to fix an engine, I just remember back to the old days when they used to run on points and carbs.
I think if you start with the carb and points, you realize how fundamental and simple an engine really is, and it will give you confidence with all engines because indeed they are all so such simple devices, pack as much electronics and hardware on top of one and you still haven't changed what its really doing and depending on at heart.
I think if you start with the carb and points, you realize how fundamental and simple an engine really is, and it will give you confidence with all engines because indeed they are all so such simple devices, pack as much electronics and hardware on top of one and you still haven't changed what its really doing and depending on at heart.
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From: Portland OR
Safety Car
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From: South Florida
My thinking is general. I post on every popular car forum, around 20 of them I guess.
The advice I give can be applied to all cars; there is NOTHING corvette specific about any of my suggestions or details because it works for ALL cars.
Speaking of which, what kind of car does RonSS have his 5.3L turbo, the one he is using to give his advice? Is it a Corvette?
Probably not. And yet- it is a valuable source of information that can be used towards Corvettes.
Thus,
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From: South Florida
Hey, you've got to be good at something.
I didn't read anything past the part where he proved he just wants to prove his superior turbo knowledge even though I was posting about naturally asperated engines. But, it'd be stupidity to try and point that out again when someone has such a love affair for the L33 engine. Actually, I might just try since he so badly feels the need to be personally insulting.
I didn't read anything past the part where he proved he just wants to prove his superior turbo knowledge even though I was posting about naturally asperated engines. But, it'd be stupidity to try and point that out again when someone has such a love affair for the L33 engine. Actually, I might just try since he so badly feels the need to be personally insulting.
2. Everything an Naturally aspirated engine does and applies to, also applies to turbo engines. It is a natural progression when climbing the mountain of car-mastery in effort to fully understand all situations that engine tuning applies to in the face of every safety and performance related aspect. For example when engines are taken up to higher altitude this is the same exact situation as lowering the boost pressure. At sea level the atmosphere provides 14.5psi of 100% adiabatic boost pressure, exactly as if supplied by a giant turbocharger in the sky. Likewise all naturally aspirated mods which reflect engine performance against natural pressure from atmosphere will similarly affect turbocharged engines.
This is why turbocharging is considered the final frontier of combustion engine performance. It gives the end user full control over atmospheric pressure, takes the atmosphere and turns it into a dial in the glove box. You learn to control and confront the issues of kinetic energy, temperature, fluid velocity, turbulence, flow work, gas laws etc... and combine them in effort to understand how combustion engine reliability and performance interplay with all combustion vehicles... general rules that apply to all engines
