Intake R & R Pointers Wanted
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 563
Likes: 201
From: Montgomery City, MO
Intake R & R Pointers Wanted
Recently acquired this gem [link] to take daily driver duties during daylight savings time.
I've been going over it and correcting all the little issues such as parking brake adjustment, HID ballast resistor so the headlight doors will close, de-blinging, etc.
Two of the issues dinger clued me in on were a P0410 A.I.R. code and that the vent control doesn't work (air only blows out the dash vents).
I've deduced from the symptoms that the vacuum line on the back of the intake is either disconnected or broken. It wasn't difficult, because I can plainly hear it (as did my buddies who are professional mechanics).
Being an LS virgin, I searched this forum and found essentially nothing about R & R'ing the intake on this thing. I'd be eternally grateful to have some pointers so I don't end up with the car still sitting in pieces tomorrow afternoon when my wife gets home from work.
I do have the FSM and I will break it open if necessary, but was hoping someone might have some quick & dirty pointers / warnings that avoid all the unnecessary verbiage contained in said document. I've pulled the engine out of my '95 C4 more times than I can recall, clearanced the block for a stroker crank, etc., so you're not talking to Gomer Pyle here.
I've been going over it and correcting all the little issues such as parking brake adjustment, HID ballast resistor so the headlight doors will close, de-blinging, etc.
Two of the issues dinger clued me in on were a P0410 A.I.R. code and that the vent control doesn't work (air only blows out the dash vents).
I've deduced from the symptoms that the vacuum line on the back of the intake is either disconnected or broken. It wasn't difficult, because I can plainly hear it (as did my buddies who are professional mechanics).
Being an LS virgin, I searched this forum and found essentially nothing about R & R'ing the intake on this thing. I'd be eternally grateful to have some pointers so I don't end up with the car still sitting in pieces tomorrow afternoon when my wife gets home from work.
I do have the FSM and I will break it open if necessary, but was hoping someone might have some quick & dirty pointers / warnings that avoid all the unnecessary verbiage contained in said document. I've pulled the engine out of my '95 C4 more times than I can recall, clearanced the block for a stroker crank, etc., so you're not talking to Gomer Pyle here.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,361
Likes: 1,592
From: Western NY
It's actually pretty easy, since there's no water crossover, like the older small block Chevy engines. One key thing is that the rear most bolts won't clear the intake manifold bosses, as they'll contact the underside of the cowl, before they can be removed. Lift them, then use a long rubber band, to keep them in the manifold bosses, but disengaged from the cylinder head. A popular "while I'm in there", is to replace the oil pressure sending unit, as it's a LOT easier to access with the intake removed, and it's a known part to fail.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 563
Likes: 201
From: Montgomery City, MO
Thanks for the pointers!
I see what you mean on the rear bolts. I'll be making some standoffs for those out of some 1/4" pvc supply line to make installation simpler.
As I pulled the manifold out it became apparent the cause of this one was evidently the previous replacement of the aforementioned oil pressure sender. It's all shiny and new compared to everything else under there. And apparently the dipsh1t that did the job didn't bother with the vacuum connector in question.
Super simple fix.
The easter egg in the job is that I'm seeing these heads have been CNC ported. Me likey! :-D
I see what you mean on the rear bolts. I'll be making some standoffs for those out of some 1/4" pvc supply line to make installation simpler.
As I pulled the manifold out it became apparent the cause of this one was evidently the previous replacement of the aforementioned oil pressure sender. It's all shiny and new compared to everything else under there. And apparently the dipsh1t that did the job didn't bother with the vacuum connector in question.
Super simple fix.
The easter egg in the job is that I'm seeing these heads have been CNC ported. Me likey! :-D
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,361
Likes: 1,592
From: Western NY
Does that "shiny and new" oil pressure sender have a silver plated body, or a brass colored one. The brass ones are the preferred ones.....
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 12,864
Likes: 4,667
It's actually pretty easy, since there's no water crossover, like the older small block Chevy engines. One key thing is that the rear most bolts won't clear the intake manifold bosses, as they'll contact the underside of the cowl, before they can be removed. Lift them, then use a long rubber band, to keep them in the manifold bosses, but disengaged from the cylinder head. A popular "while I'm in there", is to replace the oil pressure sending unit, as it's a LOT easier to access with the intake removed, and it's a known part to fail.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 563
Likes: 201
From: Montgomery City, MO
Thanks guys. The intake went back on without a hiccup. In the grand scheme of things that piece of the project was less trouble than getting the car up in the air to change the oil.
No brass body oil pressure sender, so I guess I'll be revisiting that in the future. But, the intake was so easy to R & R I don't consider that a problem. Pulling the headlight and quarter panel to access the vacuum reservoir was far worse.
My gut tells me the driveshaft couplers are toast in this one, which is what I fully expected going in. That job is gonna suck 10x worse. Any volunteers? :-)
No brass body oil pressure sender, so I guess I'll be revisiting that in the future. But, the intake was so easy to R & R I don't consider that a problem. Pulling the headlight and quarter panel to access the vacuum reservoir was far worse.
My gut tells me the driveshaft couplers are toast in this one, which is what I fully expected going in. That job is gonna suck 10x worse. Any volunteers? :-)
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Verdad Gallardo
Pro
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 651
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From: North Port Florida
intake
It's actually pretty easy, since there's no water crossover, like the older small block Chevy engines. One key thing is that the rear most bolts won't clear the intake manifold bosses, as they'll contact the underside of the cowl, before they can be removed. Lift them, then use a long rubber band, to keep them in the manifold bosses, but disengaged from the cylinder head. A popular "while I'm in there", is to replace the oil pressure sending unit, as it's a LOT easier to access with the intake removed, and it's a known part to fail.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 12,864
Likes: 4,667
Thanks guys. The intake went back on without a hiccup. In the grand scheme of things that piece of the project was less trouble than getting the car up in the air to change the oil.
No brass body oil pressure sender, so I guess I'll be revisiting that in the future. But, the intake was so easy to R & R I don't consider that a problem. Pulling the headlight and quarter panel to access the vacuum reservoir was far worse.
My gut tells me the driveshaft couplers are toast in this one, which is what I fully expected going in. That job is gonna suck 10x worse. Any volunteers? :-)
No brass body oil pressure sender, so I guess I'll be revisiting that in the future. But, the intake was so easy to R & R I don't consider that a problem. Pulling the headlight and quarter panel to access the vacuum reservoir was far worse.
My gut tells me the driveshaft couplers are toast in this one, which is what I fully expected going in. That job is gonna suck 10x worse. Any volunteers? :-)
