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I got the Vette up on Quickjack let’s and dropped the exhaust, tunnel plate and the lower cradle. My diff is covered with thick black dust, but it is not wet. When I droc
ve it on Monday, I smelled differential oil, but found no active leak. When I pulled the axle shafts, I found grooves on the output shafts. No leaks, but the grooves look kind if deep on the o
pasenger side. Should I replace the axle shafts or will I be ok to continue to use them? Any advise would be appreciated. Passenger side Driver’s side
Greetings:
I just wanted to update the thread. The driveline is on the ground just ahead of much rain and a temperature drop. One thing is sure, this is a lot of work for one man on Quickjacks! Doable, but labor intensive. After a week off I will return to remove and replace the rear main seal, flywheel and clutch, rebuild the torque tube and possibly change the rear axle shafts. Frankly, axle shafts are not in my budget, but I must clean up and reseal the differential. I'll post some pictures for advice. You guys have been great. More to be forthcoming.
I worked on the Torque tube yesterday. Man, is anything easy on the Corvette?: The BF snap ring took me four hours to get off, then the rear coupler did not want to come off due to some rust on the drive shaft. What a day!
I worked on the Torque tube yesterday. Man, is anything easy on the Corvette?: The BF snap ring took me four hours to get off, then the rear coupler did not want to come off due to some rust on the drive shaft. What a day!
Update: The torque tube is complete and ready to go, spark plugs removed and headers are loose. Now is the time to drop the inspection plate, remove the clutch, replace the rear main seal and remove and replace the pilot bearing. Now I am waiting for the temperature to go up. We're slowly getting it done.
Well, I'm back! the clutch is out, the rear main is installed, The LS7 clutch and pilot bearing installed, and I now have to reinstall the bell housing. I had to remove it because I could not get the rear plate bolt started, cross threaded one of the bolts, and had to get the bell housing out of the way to make things right. Did I mention that nothing is easy on the Corvette? Any way, here are few picks of what I found:
Yeah, I think some oil got on it . I cleaned up the rear of the motor, installed a new rear main seal and I am keeping my fingers crossed. I do not want to go into this thing again.
OK, I'm back. I have a question regarding slave clearance. Per instructions on the Forum, my "A" measurement is 2.01. My "B" measurement is 2.229. When I subtract "B" form "A" I get .372. My question is do I need a shim on my slave cylinder? I am using a Dorman slave cylinder and an LS7 clutch. I'll be standing by for any input. Thanks!
and the Luk 04-905 LS7 clutch kit, then you shouldn't need a shim. That is the exact combo in my C5 that has been running well for the past 3-4k miles.
My apologies if you posted earlier in this thread that you're using different P/Ns.
If you're using this Dorman slave and the Luk 04-905 LS7 clutch kit, then you shouldn't need a shim. That is the exact combo in my C5 that has been running well for the past 3-4k miles.
My apologies if you posted earlier in this thread that you're using different P/Ns.
Those are the parts that I used, but the measurements aren't in spec. Does the self adjusting feature of the clutch make it work?
I did not check. I just installed and torqued to spec.
Well, my opinion: the SAC position can affect the measurements you shared.
Ideally we would assume the SAC is zero'd out from the factory and remains that way by the time you unbox it. Thankfully my Luk LS7 pressure plate's SAC was zero'd. However, several years back for another platform I bought a Luk clutch kit for Audi B7 RS4 that arrived with a non-zero'd SAC... so it can happen.
Would you be able to take a picture of the pressure plate? We can peek at the SAC and try to determine its position.
Thanks for the feedback MetalMan. I have shut down for the night due to an out of town trip. I’ll post a picture ASAP. I read that some adjustment takes place after a few miles of break in driving. It would be nice to know before we put everything back together. Thanks for the feedback!
Well, I'm back! the clutch is out, the rear main is installed, The LS7 clutch and pilot bearing installed, and I now have to reinstall the bell housing. I had to remove it because I could not get the rear plate bolt started, cross threaded one of the bolts, and had to get the bell housing out of the way to make things right. Did I mention that nothing is easy on the Corvette? Any way, here are few picks of what I found: