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Hello, In serious need of some help. Started with a radio buzz and fog light switch not working. Fog lights flash when locking. 3 months later curtesy and tail lights fail. 1 month later was checking fuses in the foot well. Created more issues. Now car will not crank. No radio, approach lights, gauges don't sweep, Can't retrieve codes no display. Turn signals, head lights, brake lights is about all that works now. Additional note: The light under the hood lights dimly. Goes out if the door is opened, or if the key is just inserted. Not turned. Battery was tested bad and replaced. Found no ground corrosion. Cleaned anyway. Thank you in advance. All help is greatly appreciated.
Last edited by TRPLBLKC5; Feb 17, 2022 at 04:44 PM.
Try wiggling the rubber boot between the driver door and frame…there is a connector under there that sometimes has a poor connection…give it a few good shakes and see what happens !!
No, power or ground is back feeding onto the serial data network wire….if the connector is not the issue it may be any module causing this…a good scan tool that can communicate with all of the cars modules would help…if the scan tool can’t communicate it’s usually the data network.
Try wiggling the rubber boot between the driver door and frame…there is a connector under there that sometimes has a poor connection…give it a few good shakes and see what happens !!
The harness for the passenger door can also cause an issue, same failure as the drivers door. This is just not as frequent.
Has any recent work been done to the car either by you or someone else ??…you can pop off the “comb” with the 4 wires as in the video and see if it starts. If you buy a scan tool don’t get a code reader if you want to diagnose…you need a scan tool that can communicate with all the modules.
I installed rotors on the rear. Also rear markers. The curtesy, marker and tail lights were out before this. Started checking grounds and fuses.
During this I lost the ability to crank, radio and numerous dash lights. The analog gauges don't sweep. No scrolling text, can't check codes.
At this point I halted and looked for advice.
Have you checked that you have +12 volts at the passenger footwell fuse box? The passenger footwell fuse block is supplied power from the engine bay fuse block, you will see where the cables when you lift the fuse block cover. Another possibility is the Ignition switch contacts, there is a sticky on removing Ignition switch and inspecting and cleaning the contacts, hope this helps.
Thank you for the suggestions. I do have 12 volts in the foot well. Was wondering about the ignition switch.
Crazy what works and doesn't. I was amazed at how clean and corrosion free the grounds were.
Last edited by TRPLBLKC5; Feb 19, 2022 at 11:17 AM.
OK, try this...install both combs in the splice packs and take your voltmeter and probe any of the purple wires on the splice pack...the purple wires are the data line and each one goes to a splice pack...with the key on see if the voltage jumps around from .2 to .4 volts or so...if at 12 volts or ground that's not good...if voltage jumps around it may not be a serial data issue...now there are some grounds for the radio and cluster that are grounded at G201 which is at the bottom of the A pillar...remove the trim piece in the picture and there is a splice pack which is screwed into the A pillar and that is the ground...you will see 2 splice packs there...
pic enclosed...see if anything else on that ground is inop !!
I have and was perfect. Cleaned anyway and applied dielectric grease.
Since dielectric grease is an INSULATOR you have to be careful where you apply it…mostly on low current circuits like the ECM connectors, Airbag, and O2 sensors !!…I use Stabilant 122 which is an “enhancer” I guess you can call it !!…they also make a grease but forgot the name of it !!
do you think the ignition switch may be the issue?
OK, lets diagnose the ignition switch !!...we are going to do a "voltage drop check" across the switch contacts...if you have 12 volts going into the switch but 6 coming out you'll have issues. There are a few different power wires going through the switch so we will measure from the positive battery terminal with your voltmeter to a fuse downstream of the switch and see what comes out !!...you can hook up the leads either way end but you're just looking for a voltage number...if you see a minus voltage don't worry you would just have to flip the leads around...lets go from B+ of the battery to fuse 13 (fuel pump fuse)...put the tip of the voltmeter in any of the 2 metal "nubs" on top of the fuse...crank the car over but since it's not cranking just hold it in the crank position for a few seconds...should be a low voltage like .5 to 1 volt...that's good...if you see 7 volts on the meter that means you are dropping 7 volts across the switch with only 5 getting through...now try fuse 9 (BCM A)...record the voltage ...now try fuse 14 (CRK fuse) which is in the IP fusebox near the BCM...last one is fuse 21 in IP fusebox (BTSIBU)...check all 4 !!
2002 Corvette issues.
