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Hi everyone, was looking on the YouTubes and the forum here and could not find any videos of a remote slave bleeder install on a C5. I did find a thread that had some pics of a TIC bleeder, but it didn't go into the depth I was looking for. Has anyone recently done one? And if so, is there a best known unit to buy? I saw a thread about a Kateck one, but being new to the game here, I'm at a disadvantage. Any info would be helpful. Thank you
Katech is the best construction and materials I’ve found. That’s what I had installed while my driveline was out for a clutch job. The Katech is about $140. Go on their site and read about their company and what they build. It’s a really nice piece.
The Tic Performance bleeder is about $45. It’s not the level of construction, obviously, as the Katech, but I’ve not heard complaints about them.
Katech is just about the only one that can be installed without dismantling the drivetrain. So I'd say that's your best bet if you're not also planning a clutch job, torque tube rebuild, etc. already.
Katech is just about the only one that can be installed without dismantling the drivetrain. So I'd say that's your best bet if you're not also planning a clutch job, torque tube rebuild, etc. already.
Yes, thanks MM2, I did read that thread prior to posting. And just to confirm, your Katech fitting didn't seat properly in an aftermarket slave, or just a new OE one? I'm not doing a clutch job, so it will be with drivetrain still in. I appreciate the help.
Yes, thanks MM2, I did read that thread prior to posting. And just to confirm, your Katech fitting didn't seat properly in an aftermarket slave, or just a new OE one? I'm not doing a clutch job, so it will be with drivetrain still in. I appreciate the help.
I just installed the Katech unit in my car with no issues. I had it in and bled in about 45min, although the exhaust was already off the car. I was careful tightening the adapter into the slave because I didnt want to hurt anything. When I asked my wife to push the pedal and I watched, there was a little bit of fluid seeping out of the threads for the adapter. Another 1/8 turn on the adapter and its dry as a bone.
There are posts on here, you would have to do search and read a alot to find them, on people that installed one with out pulling torque tube. An example from a post in the past from Bobtam: "Install a remotebleeder. Remove the tunnel plate and exhaust and get your hand up there and take out the bleeder. It is possible to do without removing the torque tube. Cut a 12 mm wrench in half and get your hand up there to remove the bleeder. Then screw in remotebleeder. You may have to cut another wrench to tighten the remote depending on size. It is possible. I have done it with a lot of scraped up hands and a lot of cursing. It’s a tight squeeze but doable"
I've had a Tick brand bleeder for almost a decade with no problems. The included Speedbleeder bit the big one after about 5 years.
Don't think you can go wrong with either.
Just to clarify for OP's sake, was your Tick remote clutch bleeder installed with the drivetrain still in the car? OP mentioned not wanting to drop the drivetrain.
I bought the Katech bleeder recently because I like the tapered seat design over the crush washer every other brand uses, and I intend to install with the drivetrain in the car. If you don't file the slave cylinder surface flat for the crush washer design you run the risk of leaks. How can you flatten the sealing surface with the slave cylinder in the car? I'll be attempting this from up top with the intake off when I replace my oil pressure sensor. I'll let everyone know how it goes.