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Old Mar 7, 2022 | 11:16 AM
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Default C5 air conditioning

Hi there. My C5 has 155K. On the way south to fl my air conditioning stopped flowing cold air.
can anyone help with advice for testing the system? If it needs a Freon charge what is used for C5s. I’m in Delray Beach and tried C&S Corvette for repairs and they’re booked.
Thanks
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Old Mar 7, 2022 | 11:40 AM
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C-134a.
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Old Mar 7, 2022 | 12:00 PM
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I’d check for leaks first and that the compressor is engaging before adding refrigerant…you don’t have to take it to C&S !!…any shop that does AC work should be able to handle it as long as it’s a refrigerant issue…if it’s anything else like wiring find yourself an auto electric shop.
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Old Mar 7, 2022 | 01:22 PM
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Thank you for your military service. I will start by checking the points you recommended.
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Old Mar 7, 2022 | 01:28 PM
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Thank you for your military service jcgunn. I’ll start with what C5 Diag recommended then try a C-134a charge.
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Old Mar 7, 2022 | 02:24 PM
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R-134a, not C-134a
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Old Mar 7, 2022 | 02:41 PM
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Most likely low refrigerant. Normally one side starts blowing warm while the other side is cold. Also your ac light will blink when it’s really low. I would recommend having a recharge with a lot of dye and buy yourself a black light and do a visual inspection after a 2-3 weeks. The two seals on the back of the compressor are very very common for leaks.
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Old Mar 9, 2022 | 01:24 AM
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Can those seals be replaced?
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Old Mar 9, 2022 | 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by RC81
Can those seals be replaced?
Yes, they are typically a rubber o-ring bonded to a metal washer and are replaceable once the system is discharged. The seal at the front of the compressor, however, is much more involved and usually just warrants replacing the compressor.

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Old Mar 9, 2022 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by RC81
Can those seals be replaced?
yes. Ac delco part number 15-2722.
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Old Mar 9, 2022 | 12:13 PM
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with the current mileage - I would just replace the AC compressor - after checking for leaks. any AC shop should be able to point you in the right direction.
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Old Mar 9, 2022 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by don37
with the current mileage - I would just replace the AC compressor - after checking for leaks. any AC shop should be able to point you in the right direction.
the mileage doesn’t mean the compressor hasn’t been replaced previously. The fix for the OP could be a 12 cent o-ring and not necessarily a $700-900 ac compressor.
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Old Mar 9, 2022 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by don37
with the current mileage - I would just replace the AC compressor - after checking for leaks. any AC shop should be able to point you in the right direction.
I disagree. While it very well could be the compressor I wouldn't start throwing parts at it without a proper diagnosis. It could be as simple as a bad Schrader valve in one of the pressure ports, or a bad O-Ring. Throwing a new compressor at it would be a needless expense that would do nothing to fix the problem if it's not the compressor in the first place.

I also disagree with just blindly pumping fresh refrigerant into it. It may temporarily fix the warm air problem, but that refrigerant doesn't just wear out or evaporate over time-- it got out somehow. Any new refrigerant will just get out the same way and OP will be right back where they started.

I suggest getting a can or two of R134a that has UV dye in it. It will still leak out eventually, but the UV dye will allow for either OP or an AC shop to find and correct the leak. The C5 air conditioning system isn't cosmic and doesn't require any kind of specialized AC shop to diagnose and properly fix. Pretty much any competent shop that does AC work will be able to properly handle the job.
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Old Mar 10, 2022 | 03:28 PM
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Thanks. your all right.The problem had to be diagnosed and repaired.
I took it to the dealer. Extremely knowledgeable. The leak? Beware C5 drivers. The lines wearing holes thru are crossed and the low side aluminum line that crosses the high side insulated aluminum high side line at under heater hoses between the exhaust manifold and fender liner&battery shield.
I’m shopping for the low side aluminum line. Again thanks

Last edited by km60sb@yahoo.com; Mar 10, 2022 at 03:35 PM.
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Old Mar 12, 2022 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by vettedays
Most likely low refrigerant. Normally one side starts blowing warm while the other side is cold. Also your ac light will blink when it’s really low. I would recommend having a recharge with a lot of dye and buy yourself a black light and do a visual inspection after a 2-3 weeks. The two seals on the back of the compressor are very very common for leaks.
You're correct about different temps side to side, but I think this is a more common symptom on the electronic climate control cars than the non climate controlled cars. Going by memory here, so not 100% sure, but at least 90%, lol!! The 2 seals on the back of the compressor were the major leaks in my system. The high and low port Schroeder valves were also leaking. High side was junk, low (fill) side was actually coming loose!! It could also be the actuators going bad, but I think youre right on the low R134 level......
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Old Mar 12, 2022 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by grinder11
You're correct about different temps side to side, but I think this is a more common symptom on the electronic climate control cars than the non climate controlled cars. Going by memory here, so not 100% sure, but at least 90%, lol!! The 2 seals on the back of the compressor were the major leaks in my system. The high and low port Schroeder valves were also leaking. High side was junk, low (fill) side was actually coming loose!! It could also be the actuators going bad, but I think youre right on the low R134 level......
It is more common in the electronic climate control cars because there's effectively 2 evap cores in series. The pass side evap core receives refrigerant first, then the driver side. With a low refrigerant charge, the heat carrying capacity is reduced, and by the time the refrigerant reaches the driver side evap core, it's warm and unable to absorb additional heat.

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Old Mar 12, 2022 | 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by VetteMed
It is more common in the electronic climate control cars because there's effectively 2 evap cores in series. The pass side evap core receives refrigerant first, then the driver side. With a low refrigerant charge, the heat carrying capacity is reduced, and by the time the refrigerant reaches the driver side evap core, it's warm and unable to absorb additional heat.
Thank you for the explanation!! Now I know why this happens. Care to elaborate whether or not the climate systems have 2 small heater cores for the opposite effect? Or is this handled by just a single core and the actuators/air dams? Sorry for the hijack, but thought this was useful info.....
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Old Mar 13, 2022 | 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by grinder11
Thank you for the explanation!! Now I know why this happens. Care to elaborate whether or not the climate systems have 2 small heater cores for the opposite effect? Or is this handled by just a single core and the actuators/air dams? Sorry for the hijack, but thought this was useful info.....
Grinder11 didn't we just talk about this and we came to the conclusion there was 3 cores. Take it eazy on that booze.
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Old Mar 13, 2022 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by helga203
Grinder11 didn't we just talk about this and we came to the conclusion there was 3 cores. Take it eazy on that booze.
Not that I remember, Helga!! I dont drink, so......Damn, nothing I can blame.....****!!!!
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Old Mar 13, 2022 | 05:35 PM
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Is the ac switch making good contact mine threw a code with the pressure switch unhooked but on a 2007g6 i thought the freon was low but was at 50lbs and had wiggled the ac pressure switch and the ac started functioning again. Had already wasted a 5$ can of freon trying to recharge it.
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