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What temperature are you running down the road at 30mph and above on a Ft Wayne 90 degree day? A/C on or off you should be under 200 F if all is normal.
Did you already write in earlier posts that all three pieces of your air dam are in place? The air dams serve two purposes.
1. To direct air to the condenser when moving. C5’s are bottom breathers.
2. To prevent recirculation of hot air exiting the radiator from flowing back to the condenser.
Did you also confirm that your lower radiator hose is under pressure, very firm when you squeeze it (with a gloved hand because it is also very hot).
Breaking all kinds of heat records here in central Texas...103 degrees and Vette keeps between 192-196 degrees city and highway. Stock '04 vert...top to bottom!
Obviously a low temp temp thermostat is not the solution. But in the mean time it will buy time when stopped at a traffic light.
Please stop suggesting this. This is incorrect.
Update:
the car is now overheating at idle *Without AC*
this has to be radiator I imagine. I’ve replaced thermostat, relays, the fans are working properly etc.
I hate to be repetitive, but did you lift the car up in the air and use compressed air to blast the heck out of the radiator and condenser, back to front? Sometimes people use a leaf blower, or sometimes people bring it to a shop that says "yeah yeah sure buddy." Make sure... as the weather gets hot, this covers probably 80% of people with problems.
Boo. 160 degree thermostat controls when coolant starts being fully routed through the radiator. It does not affect how hot your coolant gets, after it goes past 160F. A lower-temp thermostat will not affect an overheating issue when coolant reaches 100F higher than the thermostat's rated opening temperature. Please don't suggest a cooler thermostat to solve an overheating issue unless a person's thermostat is (1) not working at all, or (2) hilariously high and way the hell out of spec for a corvette, like a 240F thermostat, which would be a real sight to see.
I'm SO glad to see your post about stats. Stat controls LOWEST temp, NOT highest!! TOTALLY AGREE!!! OP, you said you burped the system. How? If the car was fine before you drained and replaced coolant, you either haven't burped it sufficiently, and/or your new stat is defective. It does happen. That said, to thoroughly burp the coolant system, you should leave the fill cap off the reservoir tank, then find a steep area at your home, and park the car with the front elevated as far as you can, within reason. Not everyone has an incline, or hill, so lacking that, use a floor jack, or use some means of elevating the front end of the car. Put it on jackstands, start the car, and vary the rpm between idle and 2,500-3,000 rpm. You should be able to completely purge any remaining air from the coolant system. My $$ is on either not enough burping, or a defective stat. Water pumps seldom stop pumping enough water, they just start leaking at the impeller seal. You said it's been modded. Have the heads been off?
After reading, and re-reading the OPs posts, it sounds like either the radiator is marginal, or it's not getting enough air. Be absolutely certain your radiator is clean and no debris is plugging it. You may need to pull your fans (not a big job) to access the rear of the radiator, and then use some sort of air to blow forward to clear years worth of small bugs outta there!! I made up a small pipe that screwed into my air nozzle, then put a 90° end on it. Use about a 2ft long piece of 1/16-27 NPT pipe, and a 90° street el. It will make a difference. Vette4fl made some good observations, and suggestions. He lives in Florida. If he can keep his car running cool there, it'll be good anywhere!!!