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yes. It is quite a job but do-able. Most important to get everything properly aligned, don't force anything, keep everything clean on re-installation.
^^ Agree with this. Centerforce is a great manufacturer and does not get a lot of love in late-model vette communities. I had a DF in a previous car and loved it. Easy smooth engagement at low revs, perfect for slipping around town. Fast engagement at high revs, best of both worlds.
I will note that when I initially installed the Centerforce I was driven mad by the clutch chatter which turned out to be the weight ring. Enough in fact to call Centerforce and discuss my concern. The tech at that time suggested removing the weight ring "which is good for an additional 10% of the stated clamping power".
I pulled the clutch next day, removed the weight ring and chatter was completely gone.
I believe the current version has slight design modifications as compared to the older version which I have. Which limits the weight movement and reduces chatter.
Great clutch for the money even with the early design shortfall with the original weight ring. Hands down better than the similarly priced LUK LS7 in my experience.
I will note that when I initially installed the Centerforce I was driven mad by the clutch chatter which turned out to be the weight ring. Enough in fact to call Centerforce and discuss my concern. The tech at that time suggested removing the weight ring "which is good for an additional 10% of the stated clamping power".
I pulled the clutch next day, removed the weight ring and chatter was completely gone.
I believe the current version has slight design modifications as compared to the older version which I have. Which limits the weight movement and reduces chatter.
Great clutch for the money even with the early design shortfall with the original weight ring. Hands down better than the similarly priced LUK LS7 in my experience.
that LUK is $280 on rock auto... not really a similar price point.
that LUK is $280 on rock auto... not really a similar price point.
That's cheap! Just the clutch and cover I'm assuming? Although not really a similar clutch either. The Luk kits typically run over $550. Even if you do part and parcel by the time your done (depending on flywheel) it's $300 to $400 difference for a MUCH better performance oriented clutch. Just something to chew on.
None the less If you decide to go the Luk route hopefully you'll have better long-term luck than I did. Many have had better experiences with them. Some haven't... like myself.
That's cheap! Just the clutch and cover I'm assuming? Although not really a similar clutch either. The Luk kits typically run over $550. Even if you do part and parcel by the time your done (depending on flywheel) it's $300 to $400 difference for a MUCH better performance oriented clutch. Just something to chew on.
None the less If you decide to go the Luk route hopefully you'll have better long-term luck than I did. Many have had better experiences with them. Some haven't... like myself.
yeah, to be honest the price on that one scares me a bit. Strange that its usually $5-600. So I don't think I'll be rolling the dice on that one.
Last edited by Vette-kid; Sep 16, 2022 at 09:40 AM.
I will note that when I initially installed the Centerforce I was driven mad by the clutch chatter which turned out to be the weight ring. Enough in fact to call Centerforce and discuss my concern. The tech at that time suggested removing the weight ring "which is good for an additional 10% of the stated clamping power".
I pulled the clutch next day, removed the weight ring and chatter was completely gone.
I believe the current version has slight design modifications as compared to the older version which I have. Which limits the weight movement and reduces chatter.
Great clutch for the money even with the early design shortfall with the original weight ring. Hands down better than the similarly priced LUK LS7 in my experience.
I've heard of the chatter issues - my clutch was probably 2008 or so, it had the weight ring but no chatter, no issues. I assume the current clutches do not have the issue.
I've heard of the chatter issues - my clutch was probably 2008 or so, it had the weight ring but no chatter, no issues. I assume the current clutches do not have the issue.
Many have had the same experience you have. I was one of the "lucky ones". The tech suggested it would settle once it was broken in. My OCD couldn't wait it out. Put in on a Saturday, removed and replaced on Sunday.
The new ones have a better design. But to your previous point it's an often overlooked budget friendly performance clutch. I would 100% put another in a 500hp C5..
While Luk does manufacture items for GM, their brand clutch is not the same quality as the GM LS7.
Vette4l- are you 100% certain the GM unit is not a reboxed Luk?
I'm thinking back almost 15 years (so I'm faded on the memory of this) but I'm almost certain the LS7 Clutch I bought directly from the GM Parts counter in circa 2006/07 was in fact a Luk unit. Perhaps that is not the case today nor was it back then and I'm mistaken.
That's cheap! Just the clutch and cover I'm assuming? Although not really a similar clutch either. The Luk kits typically run over $550. Even if you do part and parcel by the time your done (depending on flywheel) it's $300 to $400 difference for a MUCH better performance oriented clutch. Just something to chew on.
None the less If you decide to go the Luk route hopefully you'll have better long-term luck than I did. Many have had better experiences with them. Some haven't... like myself.
The LuK clutch kit that can be found on Rock Auto ($280) and elsewhere includes clutch disk, pressure plate, flywheel, bolts, clutch disk alignment tool, and I believe a pilot bearing.
On my old 2001 Audi A4 and 2001 Audi S4, there was a similar "cheap" LuK upgrade clutch I was able to run from a ~2007 Audi RS4. It cost something like $210 but didn't include a flywheel. LuK was the OE supplier for Audi clutches as well.
Originally Posted by Vette-kid
By far the cheapest option. How has it held up? How does the build compare to the GM LS7 kit? At that price you could buy a lightweight flywheel separate and still save money.
The LuK LS7 clutch/FW kit has been on my '01Z for about 2 years and 6k miles and it's been great for how I use the car. No issues with it to my knowledge.
A couple months ago I attempted to fix an issue I thought might have been related to the torque tube, so I pulled everything out and in the process took the clutch/FW off and replaced the relatively new pilot bearing "just in case". Everything looked fine at time of removal, and I do believe that rebuilding the torque tube (again) fixed the issue for now at least.
Last edited by MetalMan2; Sep 16, 2022 at 10:58 AM.
The LuK clutch kit that can be found on Rock Auto ($280) and elsewhere includes clutch disk, pressure plate, flywheel, bolts, clutch disk alignment tool, and I believe a pilot bearing.
On my old 2001 Audi A4 and 2001 Audi S4, there was a similar "cheap" LuK upgrade clutch I was able to run from a ~2007 Audi RS4. It cost something like $210 but didn't include a flywheel. LuK was the OE supplier for Audi clutches as well.
The LuK LS7 clutch/FW kit has been on my '01Z for about 2 years and 6k miles and it's been great for how I use the car. No issues with it to my knowledge.
A couple months ago I attempted to fix an issue I thought might have been related to the torque tube, so I pulled everything out and in the process took the clutch/FW off and replaced the relatively new pilot bearing "just in case". Everything looked fine at time of removal, and I do believe that rebuilding the torque tube (again) fixed the issue for now at least.
do you know what the weight of that kit is compared to stock. I've heard it's actually heavier, which would cause slower to rev (slower throttle response?). I'd like to go the other way if that's the case. But you are making a good case for the money saver... my wife would approve!
Im way late to the party here, but I use a Fidanza aluminum flywheel with the stock Luk LS6 clutch and pressure plate. It saves like 14lbs over stock, drives nice on the street, and revs fast. With your mods you wont need anything with more clamping force than that.
do you know what the weight of that kit is compared to stock. I've heard it's actually heavier, which would cause slower to rev (slower throttle response?). I'd like to go the other way if that's the case. But you are making a good case for the money saver... my wife would approve!
I don't know how the weight compares exactly, but have heard the LuK LS7 clutch/FW kit is heavier than typical LS1/LS6 stock clutch/FW.
The LS7 is the stock clutch….now. GM designed it to replace all LS models from 1997-2013. It is a different design, and the flywheel may be heavier. On the other hand, it is intended to handle far more power than most of the LS engines make.
Opinions vary on the efficacy of aluminum flywheels on street cars. Members have posted they are fine, and some regret it. That may very well correlate to the torque of a given engine. Perhaps a call to couple of clutch outfits like Monster and McLeod and get their insight on flywheel weight for your setup.
The LS7 is the stock clutch….now. GM designed it to replace all LS models from 1997-2013. It is a different design, and the flywheel may be heavier. On the other hand, it is intended to handle far more power than most of the LS engines make.
Opinions vary on the efficacy of aluminum flywheels on street cars. Members have posted they are fine, and some regret it. That may very well correlate to the torque of a given engine. Perhaps a call to couple of clutch outfits like Monster and McLeod and get their insight on flywheel weight for your setup.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
on the flywheel. I love a light weight flywheel for faster revs and rev matching on downshifts. But it did take some getting used to launch the car at first. A heavier flywheel makes the launch from a deadstop easier than a lighter one. For me that was 100% the case.
Heavier flywheel is great for me since the car is mostly a DD in SoCal where there is often lots of traffic. I don't need to be extra-revving the engine constantly to accommodate a lighter flywheel.
Heavier flywheel is great for me since the car is mostly a DD in SoCal where there is often lots of traffic. I don't need to be extra-revving the engine constantly to accommodate a lighter flywheel.
that makes sense. Mine isn't a DD and I get plenty of open highway time.