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I think it's about time for a clutch on my 02Z. Looking for a recommendation for something better than stock but good for street and my wallet. I hear about the LS7 clutch, but I see prices all over the place for the kit (where to buy?). Also considering monster single disk. Any other good options?
my car has a cam and LT headers and BB exhaust, so more than stock power, but not radical. Mostly street driven, hope to do some track time at some point but nothing crazy.
LS7 clutch kit (LuK 04905) on Rock Auto is what I went with for my Z06 a couple years back. Granted it costs $52 more now than I paid in April 2020, but still probably the best deal you'll find: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...&pt=1993&jsn=1
I'm not a fan of the LS7 clutch. It's bigger and heavier with a higher moment of inertia. It adversely affects acceleration and the added mass that the syncros have to deal with shortens their life span. I have a Spec Stage 1 with aluminum fw and pp and it adds a noticeable amount of acceleration. I'd hate to go the opposite direction, even if it were just a little bit.
I'm not a fan of the LS7 clutch. It's bigger and heavier with a higher moment of inertia. It adversely affects acceleration and the added mass that the syncros have to deal with shortens their life span. I have a Spec Stage 1 with aluminum fw and pp and it adds a noticeable amount of acceleration. I'd hate to go the opposite direction, even if it were just a little bit.
I'm not a fan of the LS7 clutch. It's bigger and heavier with a higher moment of inertia. It adversely affects acceleration and the added mass that the syncros have to deal with shortens their life span. I have a Spec Stage 1 with aluminum fw and pp and it adds a noticeable amount of acceleration. I'd hate to go the opposite direction, even if it were just a little bit.
I also have a SPEC 10.5" aluminum PP and FW but in a Stage2+ (different friction disc design). It's still a sprung hub single disc. It saves 20lbs in weight compared to stock LS6 combo and dyno proven gains from said reduced weight.
I also DD this clutch and my wife will drive/autocross my car with a cam/full exhaust combo.
Get the LS7 “kit” from Scoggin Dickey Parts Depot. Chev dealer since the ‘30s has a huge selection of performance parts.
The kit includes clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, bolts. $590. I bought mine from them and had great service, plenty of expertise. Note that this clutch is the same clutch used in the C6 Z06 LS7 over 500 hp, and is now the standard GM package for all C5 and C6 cars. So spend all you want, or get what you need.
Regarding other "while I'm at it", also planning on tunnel plate upgrade and heat shielding.
On the clutch side, help me avoid a mistake. Slave cylinder on our cars is the same as the release bearing, or throw-out bearing? This task is a step above anything I've done yet, so I have some learning to do. Not afraid to tackle it (maybe a little), but just have to learn a bit first!
LS7 clutch kit (LuK 04905) on Rock Auto is what I went with for my Z06 a couple years back. Granted it costs $52 more now than I paid in April 2020, but still probably the best deal you'll find: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...&pt=1993&jsn=1
By far the cheapest option. How has it held up? How does the build compare to the GM LS7 kit? At that price you could buy a lightweight flywheel separate and still save money.
I suggest looking into the Centerforce DF 12 inch. For about $850 with the flywheel. Torque is rated at 700lb ft. and it's a good street/mild competition clutch.
I have the Centerforce in my car now with a Fidanza flywheel. Installed when car was NA making 428rwhp/408rwtq. Multiple track days and still kicking since 2008. In fact it's still holding up to 640rwhp/568rwtq 2 years after the procharger. No track days with the new power. So not sure how long it will last but it owes me nothing at this point.
I went with the LUK LS7 years ago and it was a good street driving clutch. I had 2 years of flawless street driving with it. The first day at the track it let me down. A little slipping and hard launches caused it to glaze. It's a good street clutch but spirited driving and a few track runs and it may let you down as it did me.
On the clutch side, help me avoid a mistake. Slave cylinder on our cars is the same as the release bearing, or throw-out bearing? This task is a step above anything I've done yet, so I have some learning to do. Not afraid to tackle it (maybe a little), but just have to learn a bit first!
yes. It is quite a job but do-able. Most important to get everything properly aligned, don't force anything, keep everything clean on re-installation.
Originally Posted by Johnny Hardcore
I suggest looking into the Centerforce DF 12 inch. For about $850 with the flywheel. Torque is rated at 700lb ft. and it's a good street/mild competition clutch.
I have the Centerforce in my car now with a Fidanza flywheel. Installed when car was NA making 428rwhp/408rwtq. Multiple track days and still kicking since 2008. In fact it's still holding up to 640rwhp/568rwtq 2 years after the procharger. No track days with the new power. So not sure how long it will last but it owes me nothing at this point.
I went with the LUK LS7 years ago and it was a good street driving clutch. I had 2 years of flawless street driving with it. The first day at the track it let me down. A little slipping and hard launches caused it to glaze. It's a good street clutch but spirited driving and a few track runs and it may let you down as it did me.
^^ Agree with this. Centerforce is a great manufacturer and does not get a lot of love in late-model vette communities. I had a DF in a previous car and loved it. Easy smooth engagement at low revs, perfect for slipping around town. Fast engagement at high revs, best of both worlds.