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How much will a 4.10 diff rebuild cost and who does this anyway?
If they pull the driveline out, about $2200, including parts. Make sure to have them save your old gears for you. Some shops will just lower the rear end, and that would save about $600. My shop would only do it by pulling the driveline…
You’re looking for a differential shop, some transmission shops, or a corvette/performance type shop.
If they pull the driveline out, about $2200, including parts. Make sure to have them save your old gears for you. Some shops will just lower the rear end, and that would save about $600. My shop would only do it by pulling the driveline…
You’re looking for a differential shop, some transmission shops, or a corvette/performance type shop.
Damn that’s expensive asf. If I put 4.10 gears in it’ll be at the same time as the clutch I’m not paying to get the part dropped twice. Calling around speed shops now trying to get an estimate.
I’ll be supplying all the parts as well. What differential components will I need to purchase other than the ring and pinion? And this a dumbass question but pozzi still gonna work correct ? I drift this thing last thing I want is a one legging 5.7
Yes, absolutely the right time! R&R of the driveline is about $800 alone. Cry once as they say.
My advice would be to let the installer buy the parts, but insist on Motive or Yukon gears; preferably Motive. If there is a failure of some kind, it’s better for warranty if it’s their part.
Originally Posted by acefominC5
Damn that’s expensive asf. If I put 4.10 gears in it’ll be at the same time as the clutch I’m not paying to get the part dropped twice. Calling around speed shops now trying to get an estimate.
I’ll be supplying all the parts as well. What differential components will I need to purchase other than the ring and pinion? And this a dumbass question but pozzi still gonna work correct ? I drift this thing last thing I want is a one legging 5.7
Yes, absolutely the right time! R&R of the driveline is about $800 alone. Cry once as they say.
My advice would be to let the installer buy the parts, but insist on Motive or Yukon gears; preferably Motive. If there is a failure of some kind, it’s better for warranty if it’s their part.
Local shop that does both tried to take me on a ride - said the diff will break if they just put the new gears in and said I need new housing. Quoted me $5000 for just the diff. Noped out of there
So hold on brother my question still wasn’t answered, is pozzi going to work with new gears? Like will it lock when I drift? And is there anything other than the gears that’ll have to be purchased parts wise? I don’t know **** about diffs
Local shop that does both tried to take me on a ride - said the diff will break if they just put the new gears in and said I need new housing. Quoted me $5000 for just the diff. Noped out of there
So hold on brother my question still wasn’t answered, is pozzi going to work with new gears? Like will it lock when I drift? And is there anything other than the gears that’ll have to be purchased parts wise? I don’t know **** about diffs
That local shop is smokin crack. You can get a complete RPM stage 3 diff for about $3600 and stage 4 for about $4300.
When Cartek did one of my 4.10 gear swaps it was about $1100 with the gear. That was a while back but still.
Yes, you will still have posi. The gear swap does not turn your rear into a one wheel peal stinker.
Other than the gear I don’t need anything else? No gaskets or some supporting parts or anything like that?
$1100 was the gear, seals, gaskets and labor to install the gear. I paid another $600 for hardened output shafts but that was preference not required. If you want a full rebuild with new springs and clutch packs the cost goes up.
I pulled the diff and reinstalled the diff myself. Just about 6 hours DIY moving slow and drinking beer with a 16 yr old helper.
Other than the gear I don’t need anything else? No gaskets or some supporting parts or anything like that?
There will be more parts, like bearings possibly, for example. Some of this is unknown until they pull it apart to inspect. It’s like taking your engine in for a rebuild and trying to buy parts ahead of time. Yes, some parts are assumed, some will be a surprise.
As Vette4fl stated, you may want to replace bearings. Personally, I removed my fidanza Al. flywheel and installed quartermaster for track. There is still some time lag with fidanza, better than stock, but not as quick as quartermaster. However, some quartermaster configurations are not suitable for street at all. My latest one, the 2 disc 7" is much easier to modulate than the 3 disc I had before. But, back to bearings; I have used previously run torque tubes from others that went crappy shortly after install. I had one that was used but I had to remove it because of misalignment and spacer traveling back and forth on shaft. I replaced the bearings in my last one and it has been silky smooth even with solid puck conectors of shaft, solid rear mount, solid motor mounts and quartermaster (no flywheel).
Right on, thank you, thing is I’m getting a shop to do the whole job - I’m trying to find a place near me that can do both the diff rebuild and clutch job.
Obviously can’t just send the diff out to wherever to get it rebuilt w/ this route. The car is in San Mateo, California.
Copy that. Clutch swap is easy. The gear swap and diff rebuild is best left to seasoned pros with experience doing them for these cars. Otherwise you get those astronomical quotes because the shop likely doesn't want the job based on their lack of experience with this diff and having to send it out to get it done right in the first place. Just an assumption, but they are likely outsourcing and just adding their upcharge.
R&R of the diff is easy enough DIY if you have access to a lift and moderate wrenching skills.
I just had Abel Chevrolet do clutch work on my 04z. My slave was toast and I had oil all over my clutch, so they installed an LS7 clutch, flywheel, pressure plate and new slave/throwout assembly for 2,900 out the door including cost of parts and got it done in just a few days too. Car runs beautifully now. I'd imagine they could install gears while they're at it being corvette specalized.
As far as rear end I would think the Quaife is a replacement once and forget it type unit. Haven't replaced the OEM yet but when I do I will probably go with the Quaife.
Rule No. 1 of clutch issues - ALWAYS replace the master first!!
OEM master is $150 and takes literally 20 minutes to install, if that.
Most problems can be solved with a new master!!
Happy Motoring
I didn’t phrase the issue correctly - there is pressure in the system, but the clutch won’t disengage.
I already pulled the trigger - RST & Balanced Aluminum Flywheel from McLeod is on the way, along with a remote bleeder, slave cylinder, pilot bearing and ARP flywheel bolts.
I didn’t phrase the issue correctly - there is pressure in the system, but the clutch won’t disengage.
I already pulled the trigger - RST & Balanced Aluminum Flywheel from McLeod is on the way, along with a remote bleeder, slave cylinder, pilot bearing and ARP flywheel bolts.
I decided not to touch the diff.
not a matter of pressure!? clutch won't disengage!? these are signs of a failing master. START THERE FIRST! you can always return the clutch. clutches last 100k miles PLUS! masters fail faster. just trying to save you some money. labor on a clutch replacement is $1600.
not a matter of pressure!? clutch won't disengage!? these are signs of a failing master. START THERE FIRST! you can always return the clutch. clutches last 100k miles PLUS! masters fail faster. just trying to save you some money. labor on a clutch replacement is $1600.
You came on here for a reason. take the advice!
Nevertheless, happy motoring
Heard a bang under the car and the clutch failed all at once as I said. Point is the master cylinder creates enough hydraulic pressure with each press to disengage the clutch. The master is also a tick performance master that was put in not too long ago.
Both of my mechanics agree that it’s the clutch - said pressure plate spring failure
Heard a bang under the car and the clutch failed all at once as I said. Point is the master cylinder creates enough hydraulic pressure with each press to disengage the clutch. The master is also a tick performance master that was put in not too long ago.
Both of my mechanics agree that it’s the clutch - said pressure plate spring failure
I would still start with replacing the master first. of course your mechanics want to replace the clutch. Its a $2k job!!
Clutch weak points are master, slave or worn out disc. Spring failure would be highly rare!!