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Today when I tried to start the car I heard a pop/bang type sound, quiet but audible, and the clutch pedal went halfway to the floor. It’s extremely stiff now and pressing it down doesn’t disengage the gear. At least not enough to shift.
Don’t think I saw any fluid under the car. Clutch fluid in the reservoir looks normal.
Taking it in for an inspection tomorrow. Any guesses to what could have happened?
On a side note, I am shocked with how unreliable this car is.. I spent more than 4k on this car since purchasing it 8 months ago and none of it went to mods or even tires. This is something I’d expect from an e36 with 200k miles on the dash, not from a garage kept Vette with 60k
Today when I tried to start the car I heard a pop/bang type sound, quiet but audible, and the clutch pedal went halfway to the floor. It’s extremely stiff now and pressing it down doesn’t disengage the gear. At least not enough to shift.
Don’t think I saw any fluid under the car. Clutch fluid in the reservoir looks normal.
Taking it in for an inspection tomorrow. Any guesses to what could have happened?
On a side note, I am shocked with how unreliable this car is.. I spent more than 4k on this car since purchasing it 8 months ago and none of it went to mods or even tires. This is something I’d expect from an e36 with 200k miles on the dash, not from a garage kept Vette with 60k
yup thats about normal buying a used c5. Ur not done changing the clutch is eazy another 1500 to 2000k
Today when I tried to start the car I heard a pop/bang type sound, quiet but audible, and the clutch pedal went halfway to the floor. It’s extremely stiff now and pressing it down doesn’t disengage the gear. At least not enough to shift.
Don’t think I saw any fluid under the car. Clutch fluid in the reservoir looks normal.
Taking it in for an inspection tomorrow. Any guesses to what could have happened?
On a side note, I am shocked with how unreliable this car is.. I spent more than 4k on this car since purchasing it 8 months ago and none of it went to mods or even tires. This is something I’d expect from an e36 with 200k miles on the dash, not from a garage kept Vette with 60k
Maybe throw out bearing disentergrated. To have a lot of trouble out of the vehicle sounds like maybe abuse.
Maybe throw out bearing disentergrated. To have a lot of trouble out of the vehicle sounds like maybe abuse.
Three pedal cars are always driven harder, particularly now that more than 90% of ‘drivers’ don’t know how.
Look up under the knee panel and ensure the master is connecting properly with the pedal arm. No real linkage in the master to go bad, and not much in the master to cause your symptoms — but pretty much everything else requires the drive train to come down.
My side note would be that my ‘99 has had the great majority of the known issues for its generation — it’s a long list. I have to say that in my case a lot of the problems have been age driven, instead of miles driven.
There is no hydraulic pressure at all in other words. The pedal could have just disconnected from the MC now that I think about it, I’ll take it into a shop right now and check. Hoping that’s the case.
There is no hydraulic pressure at all in other words. The pedal could have just disconnected from the MC now that I think about it, I’ll take it into a shop right now and check. Hoping that’s the case.
If you have to tear into it be sure to install a remote slave cylinder bleed hose. Makes it easy to flush from the topside of the firewall in the engine compartment. Many of us that track do this as it is needed from time to time.
If you are lucky its the master cylinder, which can be replaced without too much trouble.
Originally Posted by mmartinez
One more in agreement here. Sounds like the clutch master cylinder to me. Cheap and easy enough to replace. Probably full of clutch dust sludge. Then move on as needed.
Noting that the car has a tick master cylinder that was installed 6 months ago. It comes with a lifetime warranty. I am about to receive the replacement part free of charge. Hopefully this fixes the issue
Noting that the car has a tick master cylinder that was installed 6 months ago. It comes with a lifetime warranty. I am about to receive the replacement part free of charge. Hopefully this fixes the issue
Even better! Hopefully you get lucky and it stops there. Othwise you'll be diving in a bit deep to resolve the issue. Which is just a pain in the *** that could become expensive.
We’ll see, in my car I always heard a metal clank when clutch kicking or engaging a gear fast. Hopefully a new MC solves it; if not, I’m buying an RST.
We’ll see, in my car I always heard a metal clank when clutch kicking or engaging a gear fast. Hopefully a new MC solves it; if not, I’m buying an RST.
Hopefully an easy repair once you find the culprit. But I just don't understand how the M/C could make a pop/bang noise. I do know how the throw out bearing can. I have lost a couple of those.
Mechanic said it was a pressure plate spring failure. I was wrong in thinking that the system wasn’t creating pressure - it was, but that pressure does not disengage the clutch.
So yes, I will be doing a full clutch job. RST + LTW flywheel, slave cyl, remote bleeder line, throw out bearing.
Thinking about 4.10 or 3.90 gears as well since the drivetrain is coming off. That paired with a lightweight flywheel is gonna be fun
Mechanic said it was a pressure plate spring failure. I was wrong in thinking that the system wasn’t creating pressure - it was, but that pressure does not disengage the clutch.
So yes, I will be doing a full clutch job. RST + LTW flywheel, slave cyl, remote bleeder line, throw out bearing. + pilot bearing + driveshaft couplers
Thinking about 4.10 or 3.90 gears as well since the drivetrain is coming off. That paired with a lightweight flywheel is gonna be fun
4.10s are the bomb. Second gear screams to 60+ before you blink.
Applaud your choices and commitment. It’s gonna scoot.