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The harmonic balancer needs to be replaced (wobble) on my 2000 C5. I just bought this car from a Chevy dealer and I'm having some other work done on it too. However, they say the GM part (balancer) is discontinued and told me to get one from a salvage source. I'm not sure why they wouldn't tell me to get an after market one from any number of parts retailers because it seems like that would be the way to go. I can get one with OEM specs from Summit for less than $100 in a few days.
Is there any reason why this OEM balancer from Summit Racing wouldn't work?
Do I also need to order bolts or anything else to go with it?
Is there any reason to buy a much more expensive one? I'm not sure what the benefits of a sub $100 balancer are compared to a $400 balancer. Pretty sure I just want the OEM part specs.
I can personally endorse everything Toys4Life suggested in his video. I just did this balancer job as part of a larger job on my 99 by myself on jackstands using the tools, parts, and procedures he suggested. The balancer replacement was the easiest part. The tools are worth it, in my opinion.
You only need the more expensive balancers if you intend to race the car. The normal (stock) balancer will last another 23 years under normal circumstances.
You need to order the stock balancer bolt. It is a one time use bolt that is installed to a torque that stretches the bolt. They only stretch once and can't be reused. It's cheap.
You should also get a replacement front crank seal. The balancer seals against this. Your old balancer will have a groove warn in it by the existing seal. The seal will be hard by now and won't appreciate a new balancer. It's cheap too.
I still don't understand the dealership telling you to get a "used" balancer. That's just weird. Beware of those guys.
Just did mine. You don't have to fully remove the steering rack. it will move up and over toward passenger side. You can see it above balancer in this pic. When you position car for job leave enough room for rack to stick out 18". Plenty of room especially if you remove fans. Use ARP bolt and rent big *** torque wrench from auto zone. Not hard, just a PITA
If you’re having someone else do the work, sit back and watch the Super Bowl and enjoy!
Ps. There’s nothing wrong with a new stock bolt, they’re just a bear to torque down, so a lot of folks go ARP. Plus the ARP is reusable for those who may have a reason to.
I’d you’re spending the money to replace an h/b, always go with an ATI and am ARP bolt.
That's what I did........
Originally Posted by h8snow
If your car is a 6 speed might read the factory service manual about matching the factory balance weights to the new dampener. This is something that cant be done with the aftermarket parts. Is it important I don't know but GM thinks so.
That primarily applies to the OE balancer. I swapped mine out, for an ATI, and have no vibration issues.
I did have a cheap aftermarket come apart on me at the track. Can be very difficult to get clearance to loosen once the outer juts forward and jams up against things. Got an ATI, no more problems. Total cost: the cheap aftermarket, lost track weekend, labor and finally the cost of the ATI to solve all the problems which ends up a lot more costly and aggravating than if I had gone with the ATI to begin with. Lesson learned.
Got my Corvette back from the shop (two weeks!) and they replaced the harmonic balancer and addressed several other issues. Anyway, I got the PowerBond OEM balancer along with new bolt and seal and delivered it to the shop. They installed. No wobbles. No squeaks (new belts too). Seems good to go now... at least as far as that issue is concerned. Thanks much for the advice!
Edited to add: I should say I got the balancer, bolt and seal from Summit Racing. Second order from them and got both orders within three days (They are not too far away from me though). Communication is excellent. Updates on shipping daily.
Last edited by Skooter; Feb 18, 2023 at 07:20 PM.
Reason: More info
Got my Corvette back from the shop (two weeks!) and they replaced the harmonic balancer and addressed several other issues. Anyway, I got the PowerBond OEM balancer along with new bolt and seal and delivered it to the shop. They installed. No wobbles. No squeaks (new belts too). Seems good to go now... at least as far as that issue is concerned. Thanks much for the advice!
Edited to add: I should say I got the balancer, bolt and seal from Summit Racing. Second order from them and got both orders within three days (They are not too far away from me though). Communication is excellent. Updates on shipping daily.
I did have a cheap aftermarket come apart on me at the track. Can be very difficult to get clearance to loosen once the outer juts forward and jams up against things. Got an ATI, no more problems. Total cost: the cheap aftermarket, lost track weekend, labor and finally the cost of the ATI to solve all the problems which ends up a lot more costly and aggravating than if I had gone with the ATI to begin with. Lesson learned.
I have ATI on 525HP Supercharged Firebird and it is now double pinned. Spun stocker and caused crank replacement.
I learned from my installers mistake. He forgot to pin the crank with the balancer. 30mims more of work and he wouldn't have had to replace my crank.
We'll, at least now I have forged crank and upgraded cam to work better with Supercharger.
I have ATI on 525HP Supercharged Firebird double pinned. Spun sticker cause crank replacement.
learn from my installers mistake. He forgot to pin the crank with the balancer. 30mi s more. And he wouldn't have had to replace my crank. We'll, at least now I have forged crank
Got my Corvette back from the shop (two weeks!) and they replaced the harmonic balancer and addressed several other issues. Anyway, I got the PowerBond OEM balancer along with new bolt and seal and delivered it to the shop. They installed. No wobbles. No squeaks (new belts too). Seems good to go now... at least as far as that issue is concerned. Thanks much for the advice!
Edited to add: I should say I got the balancer, bolt and seal from Summit Racing. Second order from them and got both orders within three days (They are not too far away from me though). Communication is excellent. Updates on shipping daily.
Summit is a class act.
They have been stepping up lately with hard to get and cool upgrades for C5s lately. They started making replacements for crusty PVC paraphernalia and just lately new LCD stock type headlights. Woo Hoo.
Just did mine. You don't have to fully remove the steering rack. it will move up and over toward passenger side. You can see it above balancer in this pic. When you position car for job leave enough room for rack to stick out 18". Plenty of room especially if you remove fans. Use ARP bolt and rent big *** torque wrench from auto zone. Not hard, just a PITA
...
..big *** torque wrench......OR, use a pneumatic, 1/2" drive impact. I've used one for many years. No spin, no bolt loosened, etc.
WARNING!!!!!
I'd NEVER use one of the newer super "Earthquake" impacts. You may strip the threads!! I have a 35 year old Campbell Hausfeld 1/2" impact. Probably makes 300lb/ft of torque. The Earthquake impacts can develop over 600lb/ft of torque. Don't use those, unless you know what torque the dial back settings develop......