hi all, I recently purchased a 2002 6-spi with 45,000 miles. I noticed it makes a lot of noise from the clutch area. I included a clip from a YouTube video I made today. In this video, I had the clutch in, out and in first against parking brake. I know some noise is normal, but I can feel this in clutch pedal. Is this amount of noise normal? Thanks

 

Any guesses anybody?

 

send this to lyle at C&S corvette he will have a answer

 

ARGGGGGGGG,, My friend. Your throw-out bearing is going bad. I know it very intimating to go that DEEEEP into C5 surgery but in the Long Run, it all worth it. Are you a Do It Your Self Person or will you have to have it replaced by a service center??? I'm the DYI guy and did mine on Jack Stands in the garage. I know everything that you will need know and to be aware of and to be ready to replace. (YES, there are THINGS that are {While you are in there and have it apart } "that should be replaced" A kind of; been there done that SEVERAL TIMES preview.

Let us know more about your car and how you intend to use it. I'm positive we can give you some very good and important pointers. Its very important that you know what your up against before you rip it apart and put it back together and then get the OH **** moment when you find out that you need to take it back apart because..............

Bill Curlee

 

Lol, thanks for the comments. I am a diy guy, but things never seem to go to plan. I just bought this car a couple of weeks ago. It’s my first Corvette. I am just going to cruise in it. Funny thing is the thing I am most worried about is lifting it to do the work.

 

It most likely has some more light duty miles left in her for the longevity of that bearing. Its just noisy as heck now. If you don't beat it, it should get you to work and back. for a while :-) As it gets worse, it will start deforming the fingers on the pressure plate and it will start to get difficult to shift. When that happens, Put her up for the clutch replacement. The more you have to FORCE a shift, the more you will wear out synchro's and blocker rings shift fork pads in the trans and have to spend BIG BUCKS to get that rebuilt!

I myself have tons of clutch replacement information and recommendations for a successful clutch replacement. I used a floor jack to jack up the car progressively. I eventually got it up in a 3 ton truck jack stand leaving plenty of room to work and slide the transmission out the back. It was very sturdy and safe.. I used a motorcycle lift (almost like a transmission lift to raise and lower the transmission/Differential.

Like I stated previously, there are many parts and things that you will have to replace and many things that you SHOULD replace. There are also many things that need to be INSPECTED and most likely need parts replaced. That's where the CASH flow issues start! Like, OH HELL, I had ZERO idea that my TT rubber couplers were SHOT!
Oh Hell, I didn't know that my Differential Belview Limited Slip Clutch springs were broken!
My differential output shaft seals are leaking and need replacement???
The list goes ON & ON & ON!.

NOTE 1: Separate the trans/diff from the TT. Remove and install the trans/Diff as one unit onto the TT . Then remove/install the TT as a single It MUCH easier to lift and maneuver that light TT by its self and get it properly seated into the clutch/pilot brg then having to wrestle the TT/Trans/Diff beast.

I will PM you my number and we can talk if you would like.
I DO NOT want you to think that you just purchase a clutch kit and WHAM BAM Thank you Mam, your back on the road.

IMHO, Here are the mandatory replacement parts that you MUST buy to make a quality clutch replacement and successful job that you wont have any regrets and have to go back into the drive train:

. Clutch/pressure Plate (recommend the C5 ZO6 clutch)
. Throw Out Bearing/Slave Cylinder
. Pilot Bearing
. Remote Bleeder Kit
. Quart of DOT-4 Brake Fluid
. Replacement GM Master Cylinder
. Four Quarts of AMSOIL Torque Drive ATF
. Transmission to Differential O Ring
. Four quarts of Differential Gear Oil and friction modifier
. Replacement Differential Output Seals

NOTE! If you replace the Flywheel, you will need to have the NEW flywheel Offset Balanced to the OLD Flywheel to eliminate the possibility of introducing any drive train Vibrations/Harmonics. You SHOULD match Mark your flywheel to the location it is on the Crank Shaft in either event!!! At a MINIMUM, Resurface the old flywheel and reinstall it in the exact same orientation as it came off.

THINGS TO INSPECT

Disassemble the TT to make sure that the Bearings are in good shape and the Rubber Couplers are not dry rotted / cracked and falling apart
Differential Inspection to make sure that your Belview Springs are not broken.
Engine Mount and Differential mount inspection to make sure none are broken, Separated or Engine Mounts Leaking and separated
Rear Wheel Bearings for excessive wear.
Is the rear main seal leaking? If so, now is the time to replace it!
Is your Oil Pressure Sender leaking?
Does your OEM lower shifter box have excessive slop at the output shaft/ rear box opening?

THINGS THAT ARE NICE TO HAVE and or MANDO if you what to increase power significantly and have fun!

C6 ZO6 Output Shaft up-grade & side spider gear up-grade
C6 ZO6 Limited Slip Clutches, Belview springs.
C6 Shift Box and Shifter Its a Direct Bolt in Up Grade!
C6 ZO6 Shocks Direct Bolt in Up Grade
Replace the Swivel Joints on the shift bar that connects the shifter to the transmission

NOTE, Replacing the Output Shafts, Clutches Springs in the differential DOES NOT disturb the ring & Pinion set up and the new stuff bolts right in.

I installed an ECS Transmission/Differential Brace.
I used Rockland Standard Gear to build a Transzilla six speed to up-grade my NM12 transmission to a C6 T60/60 Conversion.
I installed a SPEC Duel Disk Clutch
I installed an Aftermarket Tick Performance Adjustable Master Cylinder Kit
I installed an aftermarket Kirban Kwik 6-speed Shifters (Spring Assisted to N/3/4 Gates)

Im sure I missed something. Call me if you have QUESTIONS!


Bill C

 

Kind of sounds like belt chirp to me but hard to video diagnosis. if the noise is only when clutch pedal action is occurring...yeah you got some cradle dropping time in your future. Not a bad time for it though as the car is new to you. Best time for big jobs is when the car is new to you and you are still excited about it lol

Joe