I apologize for the long post, but I really hope one of the guru's here can help me. For a long time now (nearly 1 year) I have been dealing with an issue of my car not recognizing my key. When I turn the key, I get nothing. I insert the key and it "dings" with the car door open. But the gauges do not "sweep" as they normally do. At times it will half "sweep" then stop. Then does basically nothing when I turn the key and try to start the car. I have replaced everything and still nothing works. I have replaced the ignition cylinder, ignition switch, measured the ohm resistor (#3) and did the resistor trick, still nothing at all. I have confirmed the battery is just fine with a multimeter and have plenty of charge to crank the car. Today I actually tried a new key. It was a confirmed #3 key. As soon as I inserted the key, the alarm was going off and would not stop and the car would not start, gauges did not sweep and the key did nothing. The resistor was inserted in an attempt to trick the system at the time.
I disconnected the battery, to turn off the alarm, and tried it again while the resistor was removed with the new key. Nothing changed and the car did absolutely nothing. I left the key turned in the ignition for approximately 15 seconds in the 'acc' position. The gauges lit up, gauges swept, tried to start it and nothing at all. I am up to try anything at this point, but I really don't know what else to do. I am beyond frustrated with the car and just want to fix it or I am going to have to sell the lawn decoration and move on to something else, which is not what I want to do. I get the same symptoms with all of the 3 keys that I have.

 

First things first, Use the DIC to read the cars Diagnostic Trouble Codes. List all the DTCs If there are a lot of DTCs CLEAR them and read them again. Post results. You stated that you replaced the ignition switch and lock cylinder. However, you need to examine the TWO connectors that connect to the switch. The female pins in the harness connector that plugs into the ignition switch can and will spread apart and make very poor connections. Thus causing the symptoms you are seeing. Recommend inspecting those connectors looking for burnt, spread pins, melted plastic connectors. Especially on the large flat pins. I use old used male pins to do a pin PUSH/PULL test on the female pins.

We will also be doing some test on the Theft deterrent Relay which is located in the passengers foot well.after you check those connectors and read the DTCs

BC

 

Thank you Bill for responding, you are the person I was hoping would respond. Just to update and include more information. The "security" light/word flashes as it should when the door is open, turns off when the key is inserted. I am going to check those things now. I realize that it is late, but when I have assistance available I will get as many answers when I can. I have just removed the TDR and it looks just fine and it doesn't appear to be any issues with corrosion.

On second thought, I had probably wait til I get off work tomorrow evening as I am afraid the alarm will go off repeatedly and wake my neighbor.

 

I use the TDR to take voltage measurements. Its the HEART of the starting circuit. One side is low voltage low current control circuit FOR RELAY CONTROL and the other side is low voltage high current. that goes to the starter solenoid. You do know that our C5 starter solenoids are crap and fail often!! CORRECT? LOL! YEP! Before you throw parts at it, we need to take voltage readings. Do you have a good multimeter and able to use it?

BC

 

Welcome back Bill!

 

This slipring get some wear and may need som gentle cleaning on the sufaces contacting your ignition key .
When you have have proper contact between ign key and slipring you can verify this , if you measure resistanse between B2 and A3:C1 with plug disconnected from Body control module .
With the plug connected you will measure a voltage on these two terminals depending on the resitorvalue in the key .

On last drawing the B7:C3 output of the bodycontrol module will ground the TDR relay A1 side and the TDR relay will send 12volt to the starter on the purple wire

 

I have a multimeter and I can use it, but I am being honest with myself that I don't know exactly what setting to put it on to measure certain things appropriately. That being said, I am at the car and can look at and measure some things. I just need to know what to check and what to look for. I really appreciate all of the help. And the wiring diagram is helpful, but I am clueless at reading them. I can try to figure it out and will do all of the research that I can to figure it out.

 

I agree 100%, I would contribute to that. But to update on my original post. I reconnected the battery and when I inserted the key, the horn beeped 1 time, and the key did nothing. Only the A/C and radio began to turn on with the key in the ACC position. The gauges will not power up so I cannot read any DTC's. This has been the norm for the issues I am having. I did reconnect the TDR before doing this and nothing seemed to change or happen at all.

 

We can get you comfortable using any meter. . Snap a picture of the meter and we can go from there. You would be using the 20 volt DC scale. The highest voltage on most any vehicle is 14.5 - 15.00 VDC on a running engine. Much over that and something is wrong. Then theres the OHM Meter. Different rules there. Anytime you us an OHM Meter, Think NO VOLTAGE! Its used to measure resistance of a circuit or continuity between components/wires. AMPS = A completely different set up (specific AMP Jack) and it measures with the meter in SERIES with the circuit.

 

Call me.. PM sent..

Bill West TX

 

I have it set on that when I checked the battery. I am ready to do and check everything within my capabilities and powers to do so. Bill any idea on what I need to do first or check first so I can report back with the results

 

Simple, quick question. Does the security light go out when you turn the key to on?

I read something about "and did the resistor trick". I assume this means you disconnected the passkey circuit and inserted a fixed value resistor in the connector?

Whatever the case, it sounds like you have a classic case of the passkey blues. The resistor pellet in the key has to be read by the BCM. If there are any problems with the slipring oelarse posted a picture of, or any of the wiring between it and the BCM, or any internal problems with the BCM, all of the above can cause your woes.

 

Yes that is what I did with a set value resistor. Ok a little update on where I stand at this point in time. Bill was extremely kind and shared some great wisdom with me and took time out of his day to help me, I am beyond grateful. I have discovered that at some point in time, someone has cut and spliced wires going into the ignition switch. One pinkish wire on the white connector and one pink/purplish wire for the black connector. Before I touched anything based on Bill's advice I checked power volts at the #19 ICP fuse in the fuse box, which was at 2.x volts, which indicates that there is not a good connection somewhere. I also followed Bill's advise and "wiggled" the entire ignition, wires, and everything in the area, while I was "wiggling" the car came alive, my gauges lit up and the car almost started, but I assume it lost connection before it was able to start.

I also noticed that when this issue first began, it was mainly during either hot weather or extremely cold weather, if the temperatues were mild, it seemed to work just fine. I realize that may mean nothing, but it seemed odd to me and was definitely noticeable.

Also to add and keep it fresh in everyone's mind, the ignition switch was replaced by me and the ignition cylinder. Yes those wires have been like that the entire time.

I was checking the pins and in the connectors by removing them and I cannot remove the pin for the pink/purplish wire in the black connector. While trying to remove it the splice came apart and the wires are no longer connected. But I moved forward and did what was suggested by Bill. I cleaned all of the connections, adjusted the pins by cleaning them and closing them up (they were quite loose) and they were visibly loose and opened quite a bit. I also cleaned them with a high grit sandpaper lightly as well as the connections in the ignition switch itself. I was unable to properly connect that one wire, but with the key in the on position, I use my multimeter and measured between the 2 wires and I was reading 12.5x volts. Does that now mean that I have sufficient power through those wires as the power passes through the ignition switch, which is not what I had at all before, by testing the #19 fuse. I ran out of time and daylight, but I am going to continue tomorrow and make a solid connection with those wires and move forward.

 

Yes the security light does turn off when I insert the key

 

Here is some more schematics for the ignition switch I hope give som help.
The pink wire from ignition switch is feeding the cluster from point C> on first drawing further to fuse 19 on the second drawing .
Personally I prefer to solder wires together and cover the soldering area with heat shrink tubing instead of clamp on connectors to avoid future lack of connections in these areas.

BTW good working and I think your car will stop being a lawn decoration in a short time

 

Thank you, I am hoping so I do believe that will be the case as well with the assistance of these wonderful people here. My exact plan is to solder those together so there will hopefully be no more issues. The main issue is the wire is already pretty short, but I think I can make it work. I am just hoping measuring the current like I did and getting 12.xx volts means that I now have the correct current running through my ignition switch. I am going in a short while to purchase a soldering gun, flux, shrink wrap, and all that good stuff. I have watched several videos of how to do it and I think I can figure it out.

 

To help get the wires soldered back together, get a couple of #12-10 butt splices (similar to the ones on the wires, now).
Get un-insulated, or, if they are insulated, cut it off with a knife. Do not crimp the connector and solder the wire inside.
Use flux and heat the joint hot enough for the solder to flow freely and when cooled has a shiny appearance, not dull.

Larry

 

They make butt splices that contain solder already, you simply strip the ends of the wire and use a heat gun and they are insulated.

 

Yep,, Butt Splice, Solder and heat shrink is the way to go.

 

Thanks, I will be doing that as soon as this rain goes away. But Bill I have a question that I hope you can answer. When I cleaned all of the contacts as you suggested, I hooked up the battery and then used my multimeter and measured the voltage between the disconnected wires. I was reading 12.5x volts, If I understand that correctly, that should mean that when I reconnect that wire properly I should still see 12 volts at the #19 IPC. And since I was reading 12 volts at that wire between the broken connections, It appears the contacts have now been properly reseated and I have good contact. Also the ends of the wire that came disconnected are black and are not copper colored like the rest of the wire.