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I need help. My 2001 C5 is throwing a Throttle Actuator Control Module Code (1518). I have replaced the battery and alternator because they both supposedly tested bad. I replaced the TAC Module with a used one that is supposed to be good. I have run about half the tests outlined in the Service Manual. Up ti this point I have been able to unhook the battery and clear the codes enough to get the car home. Well , on Sunday it finally is not able to restart. I had to rescue it with my car trailer. I'm just OK with electrical issues. I've already torn the rest of my hair out. So it has to go some where. The dealers won't look at a car this old. So I need to take it some where. I need some recomendations of someone who can handle this type of problem in the western Pittsburgh or central Pennsylvania area. I don't need a fancy shop, just a capable one. Please give me your best places to go. Thanks.for your help.
Danner Automotive in Bethel Park (south of Pittsburgh) James (Danner) Danner is the owner and his brother Paul (Scanner Danner) is a diagnostic legend…sure they can fix it…did you check the throttle actuator motor connector ??…you should also check power and grounds at the TAC module…best to use at a minimum a 12 volt incandescent test light but an old headlight bulb works best…when using the bulb as a “substitute” load for power and ground the bulb should be bright !!..a bad “new” module is also suspect.
I agree with C5 DIAG, Use a multimeter and read the TAC Module Fuse voltage. Each FUSE has two small test points on top of the fuses. Read each test point to a good chassis ground/battery ground. You should see FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE on each test point to ground. You should also use an incandescent 12 vdc lamp to test for current capability on that circuit.
Let me say before I give the outcome with my car, I've found Danner Automotive to be a very honest shop with James Danner being very good at what he does. I don't believe Paul Danner was ever involved with my car. When I loaded my car on the trailer after problems, the car did not run nor was I able to get it to start. After pushing it off the trailer at Danner Automotive the car started up as it should. Jim told me after starting it 3 or 4 times the check engine like went out. Jim tried for 5-6 weeks to get my car to act up or not start with no results. At this point Jim expressed to me that if the car did not break for him he could not accurately diagnose the problem. I totally understand this. He has suggested some areas on concern or suspicion. He didn't want to take the car apart without knowing for sure that these were problem areas. Jim also did drive the car without any problems. Jim explained he doesn't throw parts at cars, which a lot of shops would along with the bill to the customer. After speaking with Jim, I have now brought the car home. I'm going to try address some of the things Jim suggested in attempt to make my car reliable again. Jim has also asked to keep him informed on my end results. In the end Jim did NOT charge me for his trouble which I thought was above and beyond what i expected. I would without hesitation go back to Danner Automotive. Unfortunately my car was one that they could not fix without a big bill to the customer and the possibility of no results for the customer. Jim Danner is a very stand up guy.
Back to the car, Jim suggested a crankshaft sensor could be my problem. After doing some research all of my symptoms seemto point to that. I have purchased a GM Crankshaft sensor and will be installing it in the next few weeks. I will keep you all posted on the results.
Just some light heartedness: My wife suggested the car may have "fixed itself". I told her if that happened one of my friends who passed away came back to play nasty tricks on me. Which he would absolutely do.
Wish me luck............................
You don’t find too many shops like his and yes you can’t diagnose it if it’s running well…I’d clear the codes and see if the P1518 comes back…don’t know why he mentioned crank sensor but maybe he saw something unusual…if the crank sensor is faulty the Tach will not move during cranking…low battery voltage can set that DTC…how’s your battery ??…would have been cool if Paul looked at it and did a case study and put it on his YouTube channel.
The car has a new battery. I have watched a few videos on crank sensor issues. It seems I have all the symptoms except the car never runs badly. JIm thought the 1518findings code was caused by a low battery from trying to start the car. I have purchased a new GM crank sensor and will be installing it. Jim is very interested in my car and what I figure out. I'm going to keep trying with his guidance. I will post in a few weeks to report my results. I may get the car apart this week but I'm leaving for a week after that so it may have to wait until I return to be completed. I really would like to keep this car if possible.
Update; I didn't get my car apart before leaving on my trip. Upon returning I decided to drive the car a little to further investigate the issues. The first time I drove it it briefly showed a charge system fault. But it ran great. The 2nd time it also showed the charge system fault. When leaving a place of business I had visited the car shut off 3 times. Each time the car restarted. After getting on my way home it ran fine. When I turned on the turn signal to enter my driveway the car shut off. I coasted into the driveway with no engine power. Running. the codes gave me a 230 fuel pump code. Looking into this the code can be caused by low voltage much like the Throttle Actuator Control Module I have had previously. I again turned to youtube for into. I somehow found videos on bad ignition switches. The car would still start at this point but I still had problems. Following one of the videos I removed the switch and disassembled it. The contacts did need cleaned. I cleaned them and reassembled the switch only to have the starter not work at all. I had made a change but not for the better. I then bought a new switch and installed it. The car now does what it is supposed to. I have driven it a few times without problem. I grow more confident I have now fixed my car. Time will tell. Thank You to everyone here who helped. And a Big Thank You to Danner Automotive. Without Jim Danner I may still be pulling my hair out. I don't have much left. :-)
Electrical Issues in western Pittsburgh Area
