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I've got a Tick master cylinder, Spec slave. Both were replaced in the past two years. The issue I'm having is sometimes the clutch works as advertised, but sometimes it barely works at all. If I pump the pedal, wiggle the shifter, blip the gas, and say some cuss words it works again. There's no consistency to this problem. The clutch has previously worked flawlessly, and I haven't made any changes since the problem began.
I see no evidence of leakage from the slave-- no fluid under the car, nor is the fluid in the reservoir decreasing. I've tried bleeding the clutch and it didn't help anything, though the fluid was EXTREMELY dark. The dark fluid wasn't necessarily a surprise given how I use the car, but it does indicate the clutch sees a lot of pain.
WELL,,,, If it were ME,, I would suspect the master cyl. Its most likely bypassing fluid sporadically. Thats the easiest and least expensive thing (at this stage) to fix/repair.
If I'm not mistaken, TICK sells a Master Cyl rebuild/repair kit. Recommend looking into that route first.
How do you set your master stroke cyl adjustment rod? I have a very good procedure that I use that makes it shift and work excellent.
I set it per Tick's instructions-- I had the car on jack stands with it in gear. I'd set it so the wheels just didn't spin when the clutch pedal was depressed. I'm thinking I might need to change my adjustment setting on the rod for it. Either that, or the master cylinder has failed. That would be a real shame given that it's still fairly new. Then again, the car is 95% track/autocross use, so age and mileage isn't particularly relevant-- every part on that car lives a very hard life.
Might also be worthwhile to watch slave/clutch actuation from under the car with the inspection cover removed - of course with someone helping to press the clutch pedal.
Going by your description of the problem it could also be related to shifter alignment and/or the trans itself. Blipping the gas and wiggling the shifter suggests that your trans might like rev matching to help the synchros engage.
How does it shift while the engine is off? Same behavior that it's hard to get in gear?
I set it per Tick's instructions-- I had the car on jack stands with it in gear. I'd set it so the wheels just didn't spin when the clutch pedal was depressed. I'm thinking I might need to change my adjustment setting on the rod for it. Either that, or the master cylinder has failed. That would be a real shame given that it's still fairly new. Then again, the car is 95% track/autocross use, so age and mileage isn't particularly relevant-- every part on that car lives a very hard life.
EXACTLY CORRECT. Just checking to be sure to rule that out as a possible issue. That how I do it and it works great. May want to check it again.
MetalMan2 Had an excellent suggestion " Might also be worthwhile to watch slave/clutch actuation from under the car with the inspection cover removed - of course with someone helping to press the clutch pedal." The slave could also be hanging up at times. Doing that would allow you to see if its moving smoothly.