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Going to do some work on the '99 A4 tranny like changing the filter and fluid because it started to slip and slide into gear from the "D". Got the filter kit from Rock Auto for $26 AC Delco 24208574. Also looking to get the ATF from them because it's $5 versus everyone else. But then I got confused as I was focusing on Dex III and now there is Dex V and VI. I suppose they are the formulae updated version of the Dex III which makes sense since the technology from 1999 to now has changed dramatically. So, my question is, which Dex version should I be using? I have read various articles and bulletins stating that Dex VI is the replacement for Dex III, but I am old school and need a bit more confirmation from actual persons using this stuff. I am not going to do a "flush" as that would not be good as I understand it but I am going to just drop the pan and do the regular maintenance on the A4. Any suggestions and tips? TIA and cheers!!!
Going to do some work on the '99 A4 tranny like changing the filter and fluid because it started to slip and slide into gear from the "D". got confused as I was focusing on Dex III and now there is Dex V and VI.
which Dex version should I be using?
Originally Posted by Stingroo
They are backwards compatible. Dexron VI is the replacement for your original Dexron III fluid.
Dex VI is compatible*, Dex ULV is not. https://gmserviceinsights.com/use-th...mission-fluid/
"DEXRON VI - GM auto transmission where a DEXRON VI, earlier-generation DEXRON or AW-1 fluid is specified.
Recommended for use in GM transmissions model year 2006 and newer calling for DEXRON®-VI and replaces DEXRON III (H) and DEXRON II (E). Also recommended for any other vehicle manufacturers that call for DEXRON®-VI, Type III or II (E).
DEXRON ULV - Fully synthetic ultra-low viscosity for use in 10-speed transmissions. Not a suitable replacement for DEXRON III or DEXRON VI.
ATF Type III (H) - GM auto transmissions from 2005-and-earlier model-year vehicles that are no longer under warranty, where the OEM previously specified DEXRON III H, DEXRON II or DEXRON ATF.
Not recommended for use in newer automatic transmissions that require a GM DEXRON-VI, Ford MERCONLV, Ford MERCON SP or Ford MERCON V fluid for warranty coverage. Not recommended for continuously variable transmissions (CVTs)."
*compatible BUT...
Mobil has a 'find the right oil' tool on their site and that tool recommends Synthetic ATF or ATF D/M as the correct lubricant for a 99 Corvette, NOT their DEXRON VI ATF.
Last edited by Dads2kconvertible; Nov 22, 2023 at 02:36 PM.
It's also worth noting that the DexIII designation is no longer certified by GM, so anything claiming to be a DexIII fluid doesn't technically have to meet any spec now.
PLEASE MAKE SURE that you have the CORRECT GM A4 refill procedure 100% down and correctly followed.! Its a very exact procedure to have it done correctly and is NOT a common sense type of general run of the mill refill procedure.
If not followed correctly, you WILL damage the transmission.
After the initial fill, you MUST start and bring the engine to operating temps and add additional fluid WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING until the pan is full and fluid flows out of the fill port. Then install the fill port cap BEFOREyou turn the engine off.
IF,,, You turn the engine off withe the cap off, fluid will gush back out of the fill port!!!
dex 6 has a substantually lower viscosity. you decide if such an oil is for you.
"to do a "flush" as that would not be good": typical internet b.s., i did this a week ago.
btw, are you shure you want to cheap out on transmission oil? do you get cheap engine oils as well? yes, there is more of it, but thats not a good reason.
supercharged, you think now they can sell you apple juice instead of dex 3? not quite. what you get nowadays is an oil with a contemporary formulation (→higher viscosity index, longer stay-in grade etc.) and the original viscosity. i always use a product of at least the hydrocracked variety if not fully synthetic (in the real sence = pao/ester).
Last edited by romandian; Nov 18, 2023 at 02:13 PM.
dex 6 has a substantually lower viscosity. you decide if such an oil is for you.
"to do a "flush" as that would not be good": typical internet b.s., i did this a week ago.
btw, are you shure you want to cheap out on transmission oil? do you get cheap engine oils as well? yes, there is more of it, but thats not a good reason.
supercharged, you think now they can sell you apple juice instead of dex 3? not quite. what you get nowadays is an oil with a contemporary formulation (→higher viscosity index, longer stay-in grade etc.) and the original viscosity. i always use a product of at least the hydrocracked variety if not fully synthetic (in the real sence = pao/ester).
Doing trans flushes on high mile cars isn't all internet BS. I had a 150,000 miles on a Grand Cherokee, and I requested they flush the trans.. The tire/brake/muffler shop had a special machine that did the flushes. It would've cost me close to $100, but the shop refused to do it! When I asked why, he said they'd had issues flushing high mile transmissions, and wouldn't do any flushes on vehicles with over 100,000 miles on them. Im sure if there was no problem on his end, I'm sure he'd have gladly taken my $100. He was covering his posterior! FWIW......
Doing trans flushes on high mile cars isn't all internet BS. I had a 150,000 miles on a Grand Cherokee, and I requested they flush the trans.. The tire/brake/muffler shop had a special machine that did the flushes. It would've cost me close to $100, but the shop refused to do it! When I asked why, he said they'd had issues flushing high mile transmissions, and wouldn't do any flushes on vehicles with over 100,000 miles on them. Im sure if there was no problem on his end, I'm sure he'd have gladly taken my $100. He was covering his posterior! FWIW......
With the machine, sure there are plenty of horror stories. But you can purge old fluid out of a high mileage unit just by putting the return line in a bucket and idling the engine. I've done this to multiple high mileage neglected transmissions with 100% success rate. Gets the old, nasty, broken down fluid out without knocking any deposits loose and causing problems.
yes, i dont trust the machines (and their stupid operators), i do it like supercharged sais, nothing can go wrong, unless you believe the remnants of destroyed linings create a "friction dust" that makes your trans live. i know a few guys that do the same on different cars regularly.
on the other hand i have jeeps that live for over 300k miles without a change. they are for taking the dogs to the woods and for skiing.
I'm not of much help on the 4L60E. I either got a really good one, and/or my tuner knows how to make them live. I just passed the 140,500 mile mark, and have done nothing to it but a fluid and filter change@100,000 miles. That may change soon, as I added a Vararam system, with larger airbridge. IDK if the system itself has added anything, but that airbridge did!! The car has now increased power output considerably. So, the trans is taking more of a beating than ever. The method you guys have posted sounds like a great idea. I may do just that at 200,000 miles.....IF the same 4L60E is still alive........
i dont think the trans is a s fragile as many believe. mine has been living behind 600-700 lb-ft for close to 10 years now. im surprized it has, but all depends on how you treat it*. i wouldnt worry too much about that airbridge.
*) - mine has not ever seen a wot 1-2 shift, its even impossible because of traction
- i dont do wot kickdowns
- i shift manually from d1-d2-d3 during a pull (whitch makes the overrun clutch support the sprag)
- no burnouts, racing, its a street car
what i can confirm, however, is that after 5500rpm line pressure starts falling considerably. its probably the pump springs not holding up. this is not "internet b.s.". so if you want to shift at 6500 you need build trans imo.
grinder, dont you have an ls7 in there? is that the car you mention above? where do you shift?
I got the car with one previous owner who had a regular schedule of maintenance recorded which was outstanding as he kept what appeared to be xlnt records. I have put on 6k comfortable (no racing) miles since purchasing and a few days ago she started "slipping" from "D" to second gear. Kind gave a high rev then finally kicking into gear. The day before that she was running fine, so I suspected maybe a fluid change was in order. Just to note, when I purchased her, I did change ALL the fluids myself except the diff fluid. Anyway, I was amazed at all the different tranny fluids on the market these days. When I did the initial tranny fluid I used the recommended DEX 3 according to the manual. I can't remember if I even noticed the variations on this but i am sure I did only it didn't register at the time because i was focused on D3. Now that this issue has come up 6K miles later I was surprised and equally confused of all the varieties which is why I posted here. By the looks of it here and my own personal reading elsewhere D6 is compatible and can be used in the A4.
Also contemplated on swapping the A4 for an A6 if she is truly done at 85K and needing a rebuild but I may hold out for a bit on that. She is garaged for the winter and I PNO'd her for the duration until I can get her back in shape which hopefully won't be longer than 1 year. I have a list of things to get replaced on her as I continue my rebuild and mods that I had started a few months back. TIA Cheers!!! Happy Thanksgiving to all.
By the looks of it here and my own personal reading elsewhere D6 is compatible and can be used in the A4.
I did get a response from someone at Mobil. They said for Dexron III spec their current products are Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF, Multi-Vehicle ATF, and ATF D/M.
So I'm not sure anymore if Dexron VI is compatible. Seems like not in all cases.
i dont think the trans is a s fragile as many believe. mine has been living behind 600-700 lb-ft for close to 10 years now. im surprized it has, but all depends on how you treat it*. i wouldnt worry too much about that airbridge.
*) - mine has not ever seen a wot 1-2 shift, its even impossible because of traction
- i dont do wot kickdowns
- i shift manually from d1-d2-d3 during a pull (whitch makes the overrun clutch support the sprag)
- no burnouts, racing, its a street car
what i can confirm, however, is that after 5500rpm line pressure starts falling considerably. its probably the pump springs not holding up. this is not "internet b.s.". so if you want to shift at 6500 you need build trans imo.
grinder, dont you have an ls7 in there? is that the car you mention above? where do you shift?
Regardless of what some may think, I believe you are correct on lengthening trans life by not doing WOT downshifts. A wise 4L60E builder once told me that, and then so did my tuner. They both said that it's really hard on the trans to leave it in drive, and use WOT to downshift to 2nd gear at 65-70mph. Why? Don't ask me, I'm an engine guy, NOT an auto trans guy. Since both said the same thing, neither knew the other one had said this, and over 600hp has been giving it a hard time for over 15 years with nothing more than a fluid/filter change, I gotta believe there's some truth to it. I manually downshift when I want to pass on a 2 lane. Yes, I have an LS7 in my C5. Many times, with the brute torque of the motor, I just press the pedal down maybe 1/3 of the way. It builds speed pretty quick. The last 80,000 miles, my tuner has programmed the 4L60E to shift at 7,000 rpm, FWIW. No issues ever with the trans, and glad some others haven't had them either......
I got the car with one previous owner who had a regular schedule of maintenance recorded which was outstanding as he kept what appeared to be xlnt records. I have put on 6k comfortable (no racing) miles since purchasing and a few days ago she started "slipping" from "D" to second gear. Kind gave a high rev then finally kicking into gear. The day before that she was running fine, so I suspected maybe a fluid change was in order. Just to note, when I purchased her, I did change ALL the fluids myself except the diff fluid. Anyway, I was amazed at all the different tranny fluids on the market these days. When I did the initial tranny fluid I used the recommended DEX 3 according to the manual. I can't remember if I even noticed the variations on this but i am sure I did only it didn't register at the time because i was focused on D3. Now that this issue has come up 6K miles later I was surprised and equally confused of all the varieties which is why I posted here. By the looks of it here and my own personal reading elsewhere D6 is compatible and can be used in the A4.
Also contemplated on swapping the A4 for an A6 if she is truly done at 85K and needing a rebuild but I may hold out for a bit on that. She is garaged for the winter and I PNO'd her for the duration until I can get her back in shape which hopefully won't be longer than 1 year. I have a list of things to get replaced on her as I continue my rebuild and mods that I had started a few months back. TIA Cheers!!! Happy Thanksgiving to all.
If I were you I'd do a LOT of research on that. It may not fit. I once entertained thoughts of swapping in a 4L80E, until everyone said I'd have to cut the trunk floor for clearance. This was before the C6 A6 was even available, or I woulda checked into the A6 conversion. After the 4L80E no-go, I just accepted the 4L60E as a permanent part of the car. If you do make this work without cutting up the trunk floor, I'm sure there'll be a lot of folks here that would be very interested in how you did it. Best of luck to you, and Happy Thanksgiving to all!
Man, if you’re willing to go 6 speed auto, then head on! I have a mn6, but the only reason I didn’t get the auto was the A4. …not that there’s anything wrong with that
Yeah, I am looking at so many things just in case the A4 is done that my head is spinning. When I lived in LA I had a GVO installed in my '68 Camaro (BTW I still have her). It was a TH 400 and with the added gears from the GVO it was like todays 8 gear auto trans. I put in a call to them yesterday, so I am waiting on a response. HTG to all
We need a turkey moticon and one for Christmas too.