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I went to start up my vette this morning and heard a strange noise, it sounded like a continuous scraping sound. I think it was my starter solenoid stuck out. I didn't realize that was what is was, so I turned it off and tried again, still the same. The 3rd time around, it made the same sound, I remove the key, and the starter was still cranking the engine over. I ran and disconnected the battery, and that stopped it. I have a new starter in the mail already, but I don't think that it's the issue. Has anyone had a similar issue? My best guess is the ignition switch is broken somehow, going to take it apart and poke at it with a multimeter later today.
Usually it's the starter when that happens, or some misalignment of the starter drive gear and flywheel. If the starter is removed you can just verify that the TDR clicks on and off when you turn the key to start and then release the key to the run position this will rule out the Ignition switch.
Usually it's the starter when that happens, or some misalignment of the starter drive gear and flywheel. If the starter is removed you can just verify that the TDR clicks on and off when you turn the key to start and then release the key to the run position this will rule out the Ignition switch.
I did have the starter out a few weeks ago, maybe it shifted? Would this explain why it kept cranking even when I had the key removed? I didn't think it had any power without the key.
I did have the starter out a few weeks ago, maybe it shifted? Would this explain why it kept cranking even when I had the key removed? I didn't think it had any power without the key.
The TDR relay contacts and the starter solenoid contacts always have power. So if one of those relays are stuck, that can cause the situation you are seeing. A mechanical issue with the solenoid or the wiring could also cause it to continue to crank.
I did have the starter out a few weeks ago, maybe it shifted? Would this explain why it kept cranking even when I had the key removed? I didn't think it had any power without the key.
Not necessarily. Your starter may be going out. I had this happen with 2 different reman starters in the 1990's on a 400 SBC in my dads 3/4 ton truck. The 3rd starter did the trick. I know the reman starters in the 90's had some questionable reman vendors doing the rebuilding. I assume your starter is still the OEM unit. But I hope things are better now, in case you need one. Is the one you ordered a reman? One thing you could try is lubing the starter gear shaft with Dri-Slide, a graphite based, non viscous lube, and loosening the starter bolts slightly to try shifting the motor a bit. If it didn't do this before you removed and reinstalled the starter, it could be it shifted ever so slightly. Also, some starters on the SBC's had thin shims installed. Did you find any small pieces of flat stock after removing the starter? If it had them (personally, I havent seen an LS starter with them), and now it doesn't, the starter gear may be binding against the ring gear/flywheel/flexplate/whatever you want to call it. Wishing you the best of luck......
The TDR relay contacts and the starter solenoid contacts always have power. So if one of those relays are stuck, that can cause the situation you are seeing. A mechanical issue with the solenoid or the wiring could also cause it to continue to crank.
I pulled the relay, I had another relay disconnected next to it for the LMC5 next to it that looked the same. I probed both and they seemed to be giving the same readings. I did not try to energize them though, Ill have to do that tomorrow.
Not necessarily. Your starter may be going out. I had this happen with 2 different reman starters in the 1990's on a 400 SBC in my dads 3/4 ton truck. The 3rd starter did the trick. I know the reman starters in the 90's had some questionable reman vendors doing the rebuilding. I assume your starter is still the OEM unit. But I hope things are better now, in case you need one. Is the one you ordered a reman? One thing you could try is lubing the starter gear shaft with Dri-Slide, a graphite based, non viscous lube, and loosening the starter bolts slightly to try shifting the motor a bit. If it didn't do this before you removed and reinstalled the starter, it could be it shifted ever so slightly. Also, some starters on the SBC's had thin shims installed. Did you find any small pieces of flat stock after removing the starter? If it had them (personally, I havent seen an LS starter with them), and now it doesn't, the starter gear may be binding against the ring gear/flywheel/flexplate/whatever you want to call it. Wishing you the best of luck......
I believe it is the oem. Ive only had the car for a few months, so I'm not 100% on its history. I bought an AC delco Gold from rock auto, brand new. Ive had some bad experiences with the carquest remans from my autozone recently. No shims on the starter, I was sure to check when I took it off.
When there is a misalignment between the starter drive gear and flywheel the starter drive gear will not release and keeps the high current contacts of the solenoid closed which provides power to the starter regardless of the Ignition switch or TDR contacts. The TDR has four wires red, violet, and two smaller gauge yellow wires, one of the yellow wires has a black strip.
When there is a misalignment between the starter drive gear and flywheel the starter drive gear will not release and keeps the high current contacts of the solenoid closed which provides power to the starter regardless of the Ignition switch or TDR contacts. The TDR has four wires red, violet, and two smaller gauge yellow wires, one of the yellow wires has a black strip.
Ok, that would make sense then. Thanks. I'll post an update when I get the starter.
My car is a 2000, other years should be the same, but I'm not 100%.
The starter was the culprit, somehow the solenoid got stuck engaged causing the motor to keep cranking. A new AC Delco Gold for $125 at rock auto was the fix. It starts much quieter now too, no metal scraping sound at all, even before I had this issue, I could hear a weird scraping sound that went away when the engine started.
To diagnose the TDR relay, which I had a bit of trouble finding info on, place a 9v battery across the pin labeled 86 (negative) and 85 (positive) and you'll hear the click. then the other 2 pins should have continuity.
If you have another relay next to it for the steering lockout, it should be exactly the same. At least, it was on mine.
Also check the fuse box next to the BCM, one of the big fuses is for the starter. Fuse 52 if I remember correctly.