Camshafts
Do you plan to upgrade either to go along with a cam install?
Are you goals to actually be faster, or just to sound lopey? There may be better mods out there that will get you to go faster for less money. Are you doing the swap yourself?
A cam swap is a slippery slope with changing parts while you are in there. Fluids, balancer, Water Pump, pulleys and tensioners, gaskets, springs, oil pump, timing chain, and seals (to name a few) are all up for serious consideration for replacement while you are in there (It's a 25yr old car with likely high miles) Then there's tuning to deal with. You can easily be into this a couple thousand dollars (If you do the work yourself), and you may only see a 20-30 HP upgrade.
You can go with a bigger cam sure, but now dealing with at least upgrading the stock torque converter and maybe gears, which can potentially balloon costs exponentially.
I'm not trying to be negative, but we don't have a ton of details to go on, if you car has any supporting mods, your mechanical expertise, and budget.






Do you plan to upgrade either to go along with a cam install?
Are you goals to actually be faster, or just to sound lopey? There may be better mods out there that will get you to go faster for less money. Are you doing the swap yourself?
A cam swap is a slippery slope with changing parts while you are in there. Fluids, balancer, Water Pump, pulleys and tensioners, gaskets, springs, oil pump, timing chain, and seals (to name a few) are all up for serious consideration for replacement while you are in there (It's a 25yr old car with likely high miles) Then there's tuning to deal with. You can easily be into this a couple thousand dollars (If you do the work yourself), and you may only see a 20-30 HP upgrade.
You can go with a bigger cam sure, but now dealing with at least upgrading the stock torque converter and maybe gears, which can potentially balloon costs exponentially.
I'm not trying to be negative, but we don't have a ton of details to go on, if you car has any supporting mods, your mechanical expertise, and budget.

I started with the idea of adding a cam for a little more power, better sound, and improved performance, however in reviewing my goals with the shop I'm working with, I decided on the supercharger route. One of the primary reasons is that there usually is a lot more cost than just the cam in order to "cam the car" if you want to get the results you want. A lot of it can be baked in as replacement maintenance, however it still has to be done and you will need to add a lot more components in order for everything to work together.
I'm also not trying to be negative, just be ready for the additional costs and work needed to properly add a cam.

I started with the idea of adding a cam for a little more power, better sound, and improved performance, however in reviewing my goals with the shop I'm working with, I decided on the supercharger route. One of the primary reasons is that there usually is a lot more cost than just the cam in order to "cam the car" if you want to get the results you want. A lot of it can be baked in as replacement maintenance, however it still has to be done and you will need to add a lot more components in order for everything to work together.
I'm also not trying to be negative, just be ready for the additional costs and work needed to properly add a cam.
Lots of good info of what's needed, including a good breakdown of the cost of parts. I have been using this as a guide for my own cam/head swap.
With an auto trans and you do not want to replace your TQ converter stay with something in the .218 to .228 area duration @ .050 and a higher LSA no lower than a 112
Above that duration you will need a somewhat higher stall --anywhere from like a 2200 to a 3000 (typically wont need an extra trans cooler)
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Most cam companies do have lines of cams that are a step or two over stock that give a good sound and a little more performance.
But if you go big you need to match the gear and converter and may give up a little drivability along the way. The more radical a cam should the more likely the power band it higher in the RPM range.
Note if you have a manual it will be a little more forgiving but remember at low speeds you will have to clutch it more as it will shake the car with the lope. My Tunnel Rammed car had a 3,000-7,000 cam and it sounded good but it sure would shake driving into a cruise in and I had to ride the clutch a bit to just putz around to park.





ANY major engine modification worth its weight in power will require a TON of supporting new parts and a full bore PCM Tuning! When you try to squeeze extra power out of a stock OEM LS engine, some of the older aged parts will complain or outright FAIL!.
Good example: The LS1 OEM Timing Chain. The OEM Chain SUCKS and stretches a LOT. The up-grade/new replacement chain is the LS2 Timing chain which is a LOT more robust than the stock OEM LS1 chain. There are so many more parts that will need to be up graded that it can make your $300 project well into the $1500-$200 Project. Same with the OEM LS valve springs and valve seals.. They MUST be changed to accommodate the added lift and valve grind profile of the new cam. The valve stem seals will start leaking oil when the parts of the valve stem that never passed thru the seal does because the new cam has more LIFT. .
Remember the Ole Racers creed> FAST, CHEEP, RELIABLE. Pick TWO because you CAN NOT have all three!
Like others have stated, I hate to be a Negative Nancy but, do it right ONCE the first time and save headaches and cash in the long run!
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Dec 4, 2023 at 03:34 PM.
Too many people go blind into this and even if they spend a ton of money they never get the right combination of parts that work together.
I had a buddy years ago that wanted to be a hot rodder. He bought a lot of expensive parts and had a fortune in an engine. He never asked for help or guidance.
His formula was more cam, more compression, more carb and more gear were better. None of it was right and nothing worked with anything. He ended up with a car that had more money in it than it was worth. It broke down a lot and he could hardly drive it any where.
Also we took a 428 Pontiac GP with only a cam and killed him at the track. He never lived that down.
Look learn and ask for help. Get the right parts the first time that really work together for how you plan to use it.
Often those cars with blankets on them in parts were people who got in over their heads and ran out of money.
Too many people go blind into this and even if they spend a ton of money they never get the right combination of parts that work together.
I had a buddy years ago that wanted to be a hot rodder. He bought a lot of expensive parts and had a fortune in an engine. He never asked for help or guidance.
His formula was more cam, more compression, more carb and more gear were better. None of it was right and nothing worked with anything. He ended up with a car that had more money in it than it was worth. It broke down a lot and he could hardly drive it any where.
Also we took a 428 Pontiac GP with only a cam and killed him at the track. He never lived that down.
Look learn and ask for help. Get the right parts the first time that really work together for how you plan to use it.
Often those cars with blankets on them in parts were people who got in over their heads and ran out of money.
If you want some pep buy a converter and get a 3:42 take out rear from a z06.
Any cam worth the trouble will need the converter anyway. There are no free lunches with a cam swap. Your shifting the power band and your converter will have the stall matched to make use.
Get yourself a 2800 stall and that 3:42 and you will be quicker than a mild cam upgrade.












