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Old Jan 29, 2024 | 04:17 AM
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Default Inline a/c filter

Friends, again need forum expertize.

As my last compressor lasted for 1 year only, this time I decided to do everything correctly - and replacing everything besides evaporator and lines (these ones are flushed).
As extra safety net, I had purchased [from RockAuto] ACDelco Professional 15-10413 inline filter.

Device is looking as on picture below:
https://www.rockauto.com/info/315/15-10413_Primary.jpg

In general, it has filter body plus 2 spacers from each side: one is named ' anti-vibration tension ring' and another - ''expanded seal sleeve'; sleeve to be closer to filter, followed by ring and fixed with the clamping nut.
One of spacers is rubber (green at the pic) and another is copper (conus with cuts)
Filter is having a bit unclear instruction (only sequence is shown, while parts are looking same at the Fig), and my brain is blowing up what is what ?

Logically, I'd say that anti-vibration part should be rubber, while - if rubber will be under nut, it won't fix anything. Also, when assembling this way, rubber is pressed out via nut opening.
At same time, I'd expect rubber to go inside the filter body, with copper cone being under the nut (smaller diameter out) for proper fix - but rubber is only coming inside filter for a millimeter and nit giving a nut to reach body at all.

If I'd buy this from eBay, I'd say that this can be a fake and rubber is too big to fit in properly; but item is in proper AC Delco box from RockAuto - so don 't think it is fake...

So, question: had anyone used same (or possibly, TSI Supercool filter, looking same: https://supercool.ac/wp-content/uplo...0/09/13128.jpg) - to advise me the way, before I start sanding out rubber to fit inside filter body ?

Thanks a lot in advance !
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Old Jan 31, 2024 | 12:26 AM
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still need help
surprised that noone share any advise...
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Old Jan 31, 2024 | 09:44 AM
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I am in the process of doing the same job, Compressor, condenser, accumulator,orifice tube, screen and low side line.

I looked at this filter but I decided not to go with, it seems you would have to cut the line to install this and that would make two other places for leaks to occur.
I am at the point in my job where I am flushing the evaporator and high side line.
I wish I could help you out, I searched and found nothing on this,
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Old Jan 31, 2024 | 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by pjdbm
I am in the process of doing the same job, Compressor, condenser, accumulator,orifice tube, screen and low side line.

I looked at this filter but I decided not to go with, it seems you would have to cut the line to install this and that would make two other places for leaks to occur.
I am at the point in my job where I am flushing the evaporator and high side line.
I wish I could help you out, I searched and found nothing on this,
Thanks a lot !
As I'm restoring vehicle from really pathetic condition, my tube cannot be worse already: control valve is missing (and soldered there); 2 more soldered areas... so decided to try filter and - if will leak - will install new pipe...
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Old Jan 31, 2024 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Castor
Friends, again need forum expertize.

As my last compressor lasted for 1 year only, this time I decided to do everything correctly - and replacing everything besides evaporator and lines (these ones are flushed).
As extra safety net, I had purchased [from RockAuto] ACDelco Professional 15-10413 inline filter.

Device is looking as on picture below:
https://www.rockauto.com/info/315/15-10413_Primary.jpg

In general, it has filter body plus 2 spacers from each side: one is named ' anti-vibration tension ring' and another - ''expanded seal sleeve'; sleeve to be closer to filter, followed by ring and fixed with the clamping nut.
One of spacers is rubber (green at the pic) and another is copper (conus with cuts)
Filter is having a bit unclear instruction (only sequence is shown, while parts are looking same at the Fig), and my brain is blowing up what is what ?

Logically, I'd say that anti-vibration part should be rubber, while - if rubber will be under nut, it won't fix anything. Also, when assembling this way, rubber is pressed out via nut opening.
At same time, I'd expect rubber to go inside the filter body, with copper cone being under the nut (smaller diameter out) for proper fix - but rubber is only coming inside filter for a millimeter and nit giving a nut to reach body at all.

If I'd buy this from eBay, I'd say that this can be a fake and rubber is too big to fit in properly; but item is in proper AC Delco box from RockAuto - so don 't think it is fake...

So, question: had anyone used same (or possibly, TSI Supercool filter, looking same: https://supercool.ac/wp-content/uplo...0/09/13128.jpg) - to advise me the way, before I start sanding out rubber to fit inside filter body ?

Thanks a lot in advance !
Without having the filter and its pieces in my hand, here is how I would expect it to be installed.

1. Cut the liquid line with a tubing cutter and remove a small section of it to account for the installed length of the filter.
2. Select two of the green rubber pieces that will fit snugly over the OD of each end of the liquid line. Select the corresponding brass sleeves that will fit over the liquid line OD too.
3. Slide a nut over one end of the liquid line followed by the brass sleeve, followed by the green rubber seal. I am just guessing but either the nut or the filter must have a cone shape to them so that tightening the nut will compress the cone shaped end of the the brass sleeve and compress it so that it locks onto the liquid line.
4. Hand tighten the nut and repeat for the other side.
5. Tighten both sides. Did they give you a torque spec?
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Old Feb 1, 2024 | 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by bookyoh
Without having the filter and its pieces in my hand, here is how I would expect it to be installed.

1. Cut the liquid line with a tubing cutter and remove a small section of it to account for the installed length of the filter.
2. Select two of the green rubber pieces that will fit snugly over the OD of each end of the liquid line. Select the corresponding brass sleeves that will fit over the liquid line OD too.
3. Slide a nut over one end of the liquid line followed by the brass sleeve, followed by the green rubber seal. I am just guessing but either the nut or the filter must have a cone shape to them so that tightening the nut will compress the cone shaped end of the the brass sleeve and compress it so that it locks onto the liquid line.
4. Hand tighten the nut and repeat for the other side.
5. Tighten both sides. Did they give you a torque spec?
Thanks !
Having problem with #4 - either rubber is too wide or cone in the nut is not done - but I'm missing 2-3 mms to reach filter body with nut...

And yes, torque is specified in the instruction.
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Old Feb 2, 2024 | 09:24 AM
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Hi Castor
by curiosity, where exactly are you installing this filter?

I did a tremendous amount of research on this and there is not much information on this.
The only place that would make sense in my opinion would be right after the compressor just before the condenser. This way it will catch any debris that the
compressor pumps out before it hits the condenser (which is almost impossible to clean).
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Old Feb 2, 2024 | 10:01 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by pjdbm
Hi Castor
by curiosity, where exactly are you installing this filter?

I did a tremendous amount of research on this and there is not much information on this.
The only place that would make sense in my opinion would be right after the compressor just before the condenser. This way it will catch any debris that the
compressor pumps out before it hits the condenser (which is almost impossible to clean).
From page 4 of the attached AC Delco guideline, the filter goes in the liquid line after the condenser:

IN-LINE FILTERS
ACDelco recommends the use of in-line filters to capture contaminants within the air
conditioning system. ACDelco has introduced a new universal in-line filter, Part Number
15-10413 (GM# 89016656) that can be used with any size air conditioning line. These
filters are designed to fit in the liquid line and trap the contaminants that could be
introduced into the system, which may result in damage to the air conditioning
components.
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Old Feb 2, 2024 | 12:18 PM
  #9  
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Thanks Bookyoh for posting this
this is the document I have been following in my procedure to the T except for the in line filter.

it appears that this filter is just an enhancement to go with the orifice tube to capture some particles but will not stop a compressor catastrophe that would enter the condenser.
have you installed this? What is your opinion on this ?
TIA
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Old Feb 2, 2024 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by pjdbm
Hi Castor
by curiosity, where exactly are you installing this filter?

I did a tremendous amount of research on this and there is not much information on this.
The only place that would make sense in my opinion would be right after the compressor just before the condenser. This way it will catch any debris that the
compressor pumps out before it hits the condenser (which is almost impossible to clean).
My line from condenser to orifice was already soldered and missing control valve... so decided to test there. In any case, condenser is changed...
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Old Feb 2, 2024 | 02:39 PM
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Thanks, I'm asking because my system is still opened, I'm waiting on some Ice-32 from Summit, tomorrow I will be flushing the evaporator and the high-side line .
I am still considering this
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Old Feb 2, 2024 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by pjdbm
Thanks, I'm asking because my system is still opened, I'm waiting on some Ice-32 from Summit, tomorrow I will be flushing the evaporator and the high-side line .
I am still considering this
Please share photos if manage to assemble it
If will be doing in garage - ask them to make a video of assembling, please !
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Old Feb 2, 2024 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by pjdbm
Thanks Bookyoh for posting this
this is the document I have been following in my procedure to the T except for the in line filter.

it appears that this filter is just an enhancement to go with the orifice tube to capture some particles but will not stop a compressor catastrophe that would enter the condenser.
have you installed this? What is your opinion on this ?
TIA
An inline filter in the liquid line will not hurt anything except you will now have two additional joints that need to remain leak free. For me, when I get around to replacing my leaky compressor which runs just fine but it leaks a bit, I will replace the compressor, orifice tube, accumulator dehydrator, balance the oil charge in the new compressor, and install a suction screen.
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Old Feb 2, 2024 | 03:11 PM
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I did replace the condenser,the low side line, accumulator,water pump, thermostat and compressor. I used Four Seasons new for everything but the low side line, that was GM.
With parts/chemical/tools, so far I am in it for about $900.00
Take a look at this PDF, this is the part, correct?
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File Type: pdf
ACDelco1510413Filter.pdf (170.1 KB, 115 views)
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Old Feb 2, 2024 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by pjdbm
I did replace the condenser,the low side line, accumulator,water pump, thermostat and compressor. I used Four Seasons new for everything but the low side line, that was GM.
With parts/chemical/tools, so far I am in it for about $900.00
Take a look at this PDF, this is the part, correct?
Looking like this, but I didn't have any tube adaptors in the set...
Well, if they are saying that rubber is sleeve and should be closer to the filter.
This is "logical way" out of first post.
I'd expect rubber to go inside the filter body, with copper cone being under the nut (smaller diameter out) for proper fix - but rubber is only coming inside filter for a millimeter and nit giving a nut to reach body at all.

But rubber is too long; possibly I should cut 2-3 mm to reach filter body with nut - and than it will work ?
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Old Feb 17, 2024 | 06:59 AM
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Received TSI Supercool 13128 filter - assembled in few secs.
It seems that AC Delco Rubber sleeves are of incorrect outer diameter... As having spare pipe, will assemble now with filter - and see. If there will be a leak - will replace the pipe...

Will keep you posted.
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Old Feb 18, 2024 | 01:10 PM
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When I replaced my compressor 2020, I purchased the Four Seasons kit #68277 new compressor kit, #33752 drier & #38623 orifice tube early, all from RockAuto, Mine is a '99 and GM made a change in the orifice tube filter during that model year, so I made sure I had both units before opening up the system. The orifice tube filter was dirty enough when I pulled it, no idea how long it had been in there. Never occurred to me that there was an aftermarket in-line filter that could be installed or was needed.

Note; to replace the dryer required removing the intake manifold, so I skipped that step. When I had the intake off last year, I could have replaced the dryer, but I didn't want to release the refrigerant and then have to get the system recharged, yet again. With the intake off I couldn't take the car to my local shop either to have them do the work, so the new dryer is still in the box on the shelf in the garage. The system has still working great when put her into storage this past fall.
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Old Feb 18, 2024 | 03:30 PM
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I just completed this all and thank God, no leaks
I just need to wait for warmer weather to charge the system.

I chose not to install this because if the compressor takes a crap, it will go right into the condenser and you will need to replace everything anyways.

Now, if I did do this, I would put two filters in, one on the high side and one at the low side just before the condenser.

Last edited by pjdbm; Feb 18, 2024 at 07:58 PM.
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Old Feb 19, 2024 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by JHrinsin
When I replaced my compressor 2020, I purchased the Four Seasons kit #68277 new compressor kit, #33752 drier & #38623 orifice tube early, all from RockAuto, Mine is a '99 and GM made a change in the orifice tube filter during that model year, so I made sure I had both units before opening up the system. The orifice tube filter was dirty enough when I pulled it, no idea how long it had been in there. Never occurred to me that there was an aftermarket in-line filter that could be installed or was needed.

Note; to replace the dryer required removing the intake manifold, so I skipped that step. When I had the intake off last year, I could have replaced the dryer, but I didn't want to release the refrigerant and then have to get the system recharged, yet again. With the intake off I couldn't take the car to my local shop either to have them do the work, so the new dryer is still in the box on the shelf in the garage. The system has still working great when put her into storage this past fall.
JHrinsin - I do not believe you need to remove the intake manifold to replace the accumulator dehydrator. You remove the battery, the battery cover, some brackets, and disconnect the fittings to get it out and back in.

Use of a filter in the liquid line and/or a suction screen at the compressor is not necessarily needed. It is a recommendation if your compressor has had an internal mechanical failure that releases debris into the system.
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