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Guys I have done freaking everything the online videos and guides say to do for the drivers side header. I have the drivers side mount complete removed, the 4 subframe bolts loosened and the passenger side mount loosened, I have the drivers side of the engine jacked up till it starts lifting the damn car. I have the steering column out of the way, the fuel lines, oil filter and oil filter sensor and it STILL won’t go in! I’m pulling hair out here. If I could just pay someone to save me I already would but I doubt that even a thing. Here are some pics.
I have seen a bunch of guys do it easily from the bottom and if that’s what absolutely must be done than I guess I can buy taller jack stands or put the jack stands on 2x6 but that seems so sketchy.
Last edited by ApexMONSTER; Apr 5, 2024 at 04:02 PM.
They just wont fit between what seems like the valve cover and wheel fender of the car, like I simply don't have enough room. I feel like I have tried every angle and contorting and it just wont go in. I had the whole bottom up the the collector wrapped and gave up on that within the last half of the day... I am wondering if this is because they are the larger 1-7/8" and that little difference means this trick doesn't work or if I am missing something... After more reflection I will just do my best to lift the car up higher and stop taking things apart for no reason.
Is there something welded to the end of the collector?
Most header installs are just the header up to the collector. If there is a cat welded to the collector you may need a lift to get the angle to get the header in...
Ye I have tapped out for the second weekend and will attempt to raise the car with 2x8"s under the jacks until its high enough. I made a bunch of attempts from under as well and it did seem damn close, like I only need a few more inches. I wish I wasn't stubborn and would have just done this from the get because I busted the coolant sensor and think I damaged my fuel line trying to get it off.... Learning the hard way sucks... So ill wait for those and Im also doing the motor mounts just because they are cheap and I NEVER want to take these headers off again...
"OP", if picture #2, of the group of shots you posted, is how you're actually attacking this project, I think the jack's location is part of the problem. If it's still in that position, I suggest you re-position it so that it's coming in from the front of the car....
"Start by supporting the car on a lift, or 4 jack stands on a level surface about two or more feet off of the ground."
Do you have the car up high enough in the air? That is VERY critical.
Start by installing the driver side header from the bottom side of the car. The headers should slide into the engine compartment by pointing the collector towards the inside of the car and down, and rotate into place. You can ‘hang’ them from the head bolts until you can go back on the top side. I suggest installing only a front and rear bolt with the gasket first then only starting the rest of the bolts before installing the rest of the system."
"Start by supporting the car on a lift, or 4 jack stands on a level surface about two or more feet off of the ground."
Do you have the car up high enough in the air? That is VERY critical.
Best of luck!
Well as I saw about half of the DIY videos doing it from the top so I figured I could get away with it because I knew I would be height limited but it’s clear it won’t happen. I will raise the car after I get the new engine mounts and intake done. Thanks for the info!
Guys I still cannot believe I’m here after another failed weekend of trying to get these bastards on… Car is now up 26” and I’m able to get the header in standing straight up but I still can’t seem to maneuver them into place. Once again dealing with clearance issues even though I have stuff removed LG doesn’t even ask for (oil filter/sensor/steering rack). It’s taking me 5 cuts of 2x8 to raise the car and it’s just gutting really sketchy. I will have to buy another 2x8 and try again next weekend but my moral is totally drained….
Last edited by ApexMONSTER; Feb 25, 2024 at 03:02 PM.
All that's left is removing the cylinder head and trying again from the top.
Though, of course you should NOT have to do that.
Man I gotta say I thought about that. It was definitely rubbing against that but I felt it still would mot be enough. I’d assume the lifters are right under the cover so I’d only be gaining a few mm of clearance?
I'm not trying to be annoying, but let me ask again, do you still have the jack in the same location that your first pictures illustrated? You DO need an unobstructed path, in order to swing and wiggle the headers into place, and to me, that jack is right, square in the way.....
I'm not trying to be annoying, but let me ask again, do you still have the jack in the same location that your first pictures illustrated? You DO need an unobstructed path, in order to swing and wiggle the headers into place, and to me, that jack is right, square in the way.....
just sayin.
no I tried both with the mounts loose and the jack pushing up the motor and no jack. The jack is pretty much in the way regardless of where i put it hehe. LG does not say it’s required to loosen mounts and raise the motor. Worst case I will borrow a friend’s cherry picker and see if I can raise it up that way. Hopefully it was a matter of the car simply not being high enough.
Apex
I watched the guys at LG install my LT Pros. I remember the drivers side went in from the bottom and it looked effortless. I suspect you are on the right track and just need to get the car high enough. You are going to love those headers!!
VS
Take both mounts loose you don't have to remove them.
Jack motor up like youre doing careful with the cowl
Front edges of the floor pan seams I had to bend out of the way (some people cut but I bent them with a giant pair of channel locks), headers went in from the bottom, bent the floor pan and used a hammer and dolly to flatten them back out and used a brush and some black enamel I had to cover up the marks as I didn't want spray paint ever where.
Take both mounts loose you don't have to remove them.
Jack motor up like youre doing careful with the cowl
Front edges of the floor pan seams I had to bend out of the way (some people cut but I bent them with a giant pair of channel locks), headers went in from the bottom, bent the floor pan and used a hammer and dolly to flatten them back out and used a brush and some black enamel I had to cover up the marks as I didn't want spray paint ever where.
Gives you about 3/4" more room. I've seen others cut them with a dremel/cut off wheel, but since there are spot welds there I didn't want to do that, so bent them down, headers went in, bent them back in place and flattened them back out and painted them.
If you have old motor mounts this would also be the time to replace them, they are easiest now that the manifold/headers are out of the way just FYI.
I did not loosen the subframe at all.
Also the next thing is getting the starter hooked back up and put back in, headers make the starter a terrible job at least the way my headers are did.
Be careful you don't crack the cowl lip when you jack the motor, I put the jack in place and jacked the engine up while standing in front of the car watching the intake/cowl area when they touched I stopped.
The 2" primary's were so bad I thought at one point about pulling the heads to get them in there, but they eventually went in.
If you have enough room, try from the bottom. I had mine loose one time on driver's side and when I raised the car on my lift, it just fell to the ground unintentionally.
2 questions in my mind. Are the headers brand new? Just possibly they are just a bit out of whack when made at factory. **** happens.
Have you tried tech support at LG for some assistance? Good luck and be careful under there.
Gives you about 3/4" more room. I've seen others cut them with a dremel/cut off wheel, but since there are spot welds there I didn't want to do that, so bent them down, headers went in, bent them back in place and flattened them back out and painted them.
If you have old motor mounts this would also be the time to replace them, they are easiest now that the manifold/headers are out of the way just FYI.
I did not loosen the subframe at all.
Also the next thing is getting the starter hooked back up and put back in, headers make the starter a terrible job at least the way my headers are did.
Be careful you don't crack the cowl lip when you jack the motor, I put the jack in place and jacked the engine up while standing in front of the car watching the intake/cowl area when they touched I stopped.
The 2" primary's were so bad I thought at one point about pulling the heads to get them in there, but they eventually went in.
Im definitely gonna bend them and not cut anything if possible. I already put in new motor mounts and will be putting in a new belt/spark plugs/wires and a coolant sensor since I broke it 🙃. It looks like the starter will have to come out for the passenger side, I havnt event attempted that side seriously. What else should I fix it while I’m in there? I don’t care if the car sits for a week or 2 more if it means I won’t have to touch it for a while.
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