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If you open the Connector C412 (B&C) and the C414 (A&B) you can measure each senders resistance value . These values should be between 40-250 ohm .
The driver side shows 5 volt on the PCM input term C1:23 and C2:54 . This can be caused by a sender element (slipring potentiometer) or bad connection /broken wire somewhere.
If you measure each sender it should be "easy" to verify if the senders are working ok or not
I tested a passenger side fuel sender for a friend some years ago and got these resistance readings
I crawled under the car, over the weekend, but without skinny arms, I didn't see how I could get to the connectors to test resistance. I didn't pull up the floor board to get to the PCM,
oelarse's diagram showed a connector labeled C412 - item #8 going to the left side tank bulkhead. That may be accessible without dropping a bunch of stuff. Getting it apart would allow you to test the resistance of the left sender, which is what's suspect based on your Tech2 data.
The PCM is under the battery tray and is quite easy to access (relatively speaking) from underneath the car. There's an access panel in the right inner fender that has about six or seven small trim screws holding it in. Once out of the way the PCM headers can be unbolted and removed quite easily.
There's not much that's fun about working on these cars. It's either a labor of love or a massive drain on your bank account. Pick one. It's how they have to build them to keep the center of gravity so low. Well not all the stupid design is because of that, but you get the point.
If you are doing any PCM work on jack stands it's best to unbolt the PCM from it's bracket and let it hang. Trying to back probe the wires while it's still bolted in the fender is a PITA.
Like mentioned, check resistance at the connectors going into the tank hats. If that's OK then the wiring from the tank hats to PCM may be bad.
Then check resistance at the PCM connectors going into the PCM. If things are OK going INTO the PCM then the issue may be the PCM or the cluster.
It's not common for a PCM or cluster to be bad, but they are electrical components...I once had a PCM "go bad" on ONE pin. It was my crank sensor signal pin on the PCM which had something happen internally that would trigger crank signal issues and hard starts at times. My crank sensor was not the issue nor was the wiring.
