Starting Problem
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,804
Likes: 358
From: Northville, MI
Starting Problem
I am having problems starting the car with the positive battery connected and the trickle charger removed, battery will show 12.8V on VOM but car will not start. Disconnect the battery negative cable and then attach my battery negative cable and tighten to 11 ft/lbs and car will start. Leave it 10+minutes and the interior lights and dash will light up with key on but car will not start or turn over. Suspect it might be the negative cable but not sure. When I disconnect and reattach the negative cable a clicking sound be heard from the front headlight area and the it will start.
Moderator, Tech Contributor
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Cape Coral, Florida
You should always get your battery load tested first…do you have a 12 volt test light ??…if so connect the test light to battery ground and with the test light on a clean spot on the engine block see if the test light illuminates while attempting to start the car…it should NOT…if it does you have a bad engine block ground…OR if you have a pair of heavy duty jumper cables connect one of them to battery ground and the other lead to a clean spot on the engine block…see if the car starts.
Last edited by C5 Diag; Jun 1, 2024 at 03:58 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,138
Likes: 802
From: Espanola New Mexico
When the car starts after disconnecting and reconnecting the negative battery cable usually points to the BCM which is reset when you do that. The clicking sound you hear by the headlight when you reconnect the cable is the headlight module and is totally normal.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,804
Likes: 358
From: Northville, MI
Checked the battery voltage, 12.68V, attached the test light to engine ground to start the car and no illumination. Sat for 10 minutes and no engine would not even turn over to start. However when I opened the door to start the car the interior lights did not come on and the key did not buzz when I put it into the ignition switch., but the gauges all light up on the dash
Moderator, Tech Contributor
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Cape Coral, Florida
May be a BCM issue…do you have a scan tool to check all modules ??…if so I would see if you can communicate with the BCM…another data PID to check is “key in ignition”…car won’t start if you can’t communicate with the BCM…can you check for trouble codes using the DIC ??…may want to remove the BCM connectors and check for issues there…if “no comm” with BCM you’d want to check its powers and grounds first.
Last edited by C5 Diag; Jun 2, 2024 at 04:19 PM.
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From: Dyer, IN
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,138
Likes: 802
From: Espanola New Mexico
Yes, after disconnecting and reconnecting the negative battery cable after 5 minutes or so can reset or clear several issues even a check engine light. Many forum members have had the same problem as the OP, remember that the BCM provides a ground to the TDR, without that ground the car will not crank over.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,804
Likes: 358
From: Northville, MI
Checked the codes and several came up and all point to the BCM. B2282,2283,2284,2285 U1000,1064,1160. When I pulled the BCM,code nothing showed up, the other areas said NO Codes.
For the open hood I took the light out of the housing, wondering if that could cause a problem?
Later today I will check out the BCM grounds and TDR (highly unlikely because when negative terminal reconnected it would start)
For the open hood I took the light out of the housing, wondering if that could cause a problem?
Later today I will check out the BCM grounds and TDR (highly unlikely because when negative terminal reconnected it would start)
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,138
Likes: 802
From: Espanola New Mexico
Sounds like the BCM is corrupting the data buss, might pull the BCM covers and look for obvious signs of corrosion. Might have to replace or have the BCM repaired by companies that specialize in automotive electronics modules repair.
Moderator, Tech Contributor
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Cape Coral, Florida
Not all these DTC’s are BCM related…the U1064 means a module can’t communicate with the BCM…with your Tech 2 can you communicate with the BCM ??…the 4 “B” codes are battery faults in both door modules…did you find the data PID that says if the key is in the ignition ??…you want to check BOTH power and grounds if you can’t communicate…if no comm with BCM and all power and grounds are OK looks like a bad BCM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,804
Likes: 358
From: Northville, MI
Thanks, that is what I expected. Last year the central udder filled up on me and the carpet got wet. I will look for the "Key in the ignition: and check the grounds later today.