WTF?!?!?!? My Motor is PINGING??? Why?
So come to find out the "rattling/tinging" noise I've been hearing for the last couple of weeks is my engine pinging. I thought it was some tranny problem since it only occurs upon acceleration and can mostly hear it between 30-70 mph. I stopped by my dealer today and picked up the Corvette Tech guy which came to the conclusion of it pinging and most likely due to "carbon buildup" for which he wants to keep it overnight and do some thorough cleaning to the motor with some chemicals and what-not. I use ONLY premium fuel (granted here in Southern California we are screwed and our premium gas is only 91 octane everywhere) at Union 76, Chevron, and Shell gas stations. Never at the cheap-o ones. Anyone else think this is the culprit (carbon-buildup) or is there something else I should be considering? :confused: Thanks.







Bill C
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I just changed my plugs and don't want to do it again.... :)
Patrick :cheers:
I just changed my plugs
I'm going to run outside right now to check if there are any codes showing up. :leaving:
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Okay...I am back: I had cleared ALL my codes this morning to see what would happen. Just checked and I have come up with these two codes:
BO-RFA U1000 H
BO-RFA U1064 H
These are the only two codes on the system and I have put on about 80 miles today since it was cleared. And yes, it has pinged constantly today.
[Modified by RskyBns, 8:29 PM 2/4/2003]
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts





BO-RFA U1064 H Loss of coms with the BCM Body Control Module. LDCM/ RDCM left and right door control modules and Left Seat Control Module LSCM
Sounds like you have an electrical problem. I would check for moisture in the passengers foot well under the cover.
Look there and let us know if it is damp or wet.
Bill C
I don't believe the Uxxxx communication codes are much to worry about. They are common.
How many miles on the car?
[Modified by TooManyIDs, 11:28 PM 2/4/2003]
there's a great chance that your car will run fine after the dealer decarb's the motor. I would recommend doing some sort of PCV mod to eliminate oil getting into your intake from now on.
Did you have any luck with your de-carbon from gm?
I am going to replace with 02 z06 intake and replace the sensors. Should i de-carb the cylenders at the same time?
[Modified by KEPRGHT, 3:52 PM 2/5/2003]
Also, the tech at the dealer said that there was a possibility it could be failing O2 Knock Sensors. I haven't taken it in yet, I guess I will do it tomorrow. There are 50k miles on the car now. And yes, since I have an '01 I do have oil consumption problems approximately 1/2 quart every 1000 miles. Also, if this does seem to be the problem with the carbon, pvc, etc.....should I remove the Blackwing and put the stock back on and/or do the PVC mod before I take it to the dealer?





The knock sensor is a piezo electric sensor that listens for a tuned frequency (the same frequency that knock/ping develops and when it hears that frequency it will retard your timing until the event stops. Details on page 6-1162. It can retard up to 20 degrees. Your diagnostic program should be able to tell you if there is a malfunction in the KS sensor operating perameters. There are two sensors in a C5 and they are under the intake manifold.
If your car is under warrenty let them go for it.
If your spending your own money, I would recheck your codes using the diagnostic program using your Drivers Information Console (DIC). If you do not have any codes set, I would suspect that the engine is carboned up. De-carbon it PRIOR to spending tons of money at the tech's easter egg desires. NAPA sells a decarboning cleaner (dont quote me on the name "Sea Foam") that you can do your self. It's easy to apply and it works. You can squirt it in the same place that the engine oil entered in the first place the PVC vacuum port.
Dealer drive by trouble shooting can be EXPENSIVE!! :eek:
bill C
If you do this, BE CAREFUL NOT TO LET THE ENGINE DIE while you're pouring it in, otherwise you could hydrolock the engine.
You also don't have to change the oil with the above method. If you pour it into each cylinder (as C5Tech described in the Tech Tips), then you DO have to change the oil. I think I'm going to try this one at my next oil change.
Also, I believe there's some truth to the old trick of running the engine at WOT occasionally to "blow the carbon out." What that really does is get the cylinder pressures up high enough to loosen/burn the carbon in the combustion chambers.
Hope this helps,
Mike





If this is true
" Also, I believe there's some truth to the old trick of running the engine at WOT occasionally to "blow the carbon out." What that really does is get the cylinder pressures up high enough to loosen/burn the carbon in the combustion chambers."
my combustion chambers should be clean enough to eat off of :D .
I run mine up to red line frequently and infact I have never had a carbon problem :thumbs:
I guess there may just be some truth to it after all!!
Bill C :cheers:
TIA,
Mike












