2000 Corvette 'While It's Apart' List For Dashboard
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 107
Likes: 42
From: Louisville, KY
Thank you Skooter, I should have added some context in that I need a bezel that is oversize to cover up the shrinking vinyl on the dashboard, not to replace my existing bezel. I could be wrong, but I believe all C5s have the same size HUD Bezel and even the same HUD.
My existing bezel is actually in really good shape, but the vinyl has shrunk quite a bit over her 25 years. There is no way it's stretching back underneath the bezel. Picture is attached.
Since the dash is already off of the car, replacing the whole bezel would not be much more work than gluing an overlay on top. I would consider 3D printing something, but I am almost certain it is too large for any 3D printer I have access to. Taking measurements to get the slope/curve right would also be a huge pain (and likely involve some trail and error). The 3D print texture/look would stick out like a sore thumb too.
My existing bezel is actually in really good shape, but the vinyl has shrunk quite a bit over her 25 years. There is no way it's stretching back underneath the bezel. Picture is attached.
Since the dash is already off of the car, replacing the whole bezel would not be much more work than gluing an overlay on top. I would consider 3D printing something, but I am almost certain it is too large for any 3D printer I have access to. Taking measurements to get the slope/curve right would also be a huge pain (and likely involve some trail and error). The 3D print texture/look would stick out like a sore thumb too.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 131
Likes: 25
I see now what you mean. I wonder if there is some way to treat that area around the opening to reconstitute and stretch the vinyl back to where it should be. Perhaps a good upholstery shop specializing in restoration could help. Maybe even take it to them while you have it out.
There are plenty of used HUD dashboards in the $200-$300 range. Bringing it to an upholstery shop would potentially exceed this? I am not sure exactly what needs to be done or how much it would cost though.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 107
Likes: 42
From: Louisville, KY
If anyone knows how to make the existing vinyl workable, I'd be up for giving it a try. I didn't even think of that, I'll have to do some searching to see if that could be done relatively easily.
There are plenty of used HUD dashboards in the $200-$300 range. Bringing it to an upholstery shop would potentially exceed this? I am not sure exactly what needs to be done or how much it would cost though.
There are plenty of used HUD dashboards in the $200-$300 range. Bringing it to an upholstery shop would potentially exceed this? I am not sure exactly what needs to be done or how much it would cost though.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 131
Likes: 25
Update on HUD issue:
I forgot again to bring a multimeter home, but I still had some of the old gauge cluster bulbs laying around. I put the leads on the two left most pins (looking at the gauges) coming out of the top of gauge cluster (that lead to the HUD) and it did not light. I tried the two right most pins and it did light, so those must be the correct pins for power. Unless there is an issue in the cable leading to the HUD, it is getting power. The issue must be in the HUD itself. Is there a bulb that lights the projector? Are there any replacement parts for this or do I need to just buy a new (used) HUD? At that point, I'll probably just leave it non-functional.
I forgot again to bring a multimeter home, but I still had some of the old gauge cluster bulbs laying around. I put the leads on the two left most pins (looking at the gauges) coming out of the top of gauge cluster (that lead to the HUD) and it did not light. I tried the two right most pins and it did light, so those must be the correct pins for power. Unless there is an issue in the cable leading to the HUD, it is getting power. The issue must be in the HUD itself. Is there a bulb that lights the projector? Are there any replacement parts for this or do I need to just buy a new (used) HUD? At that point, I'll probably just leave it non-functional.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,583
Likes: 415
From: Erwin, NC
Where are you getting the replacement screws from? I am missing a handful of them.
Your post is giving me a list of things to do whenever I install my radio. Previous owner had an aftermarket setup and kept most of it. I did my blend door actuators a few months back. The driver side is a pain in the *** if you have medium-size hands or larger. You don't need to do anything with the airbag for either side.
Your post is giving me a list of things to do whenever I install my radio. Previous owner had an aftermarket setup and kept most of it. I did my blend door actuators a few months back. The driver side is a pain in the *** if you have medium-size hands or larger. You don't need to do anything with the airbag for either side.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 131
Likes: 25
Where are you getting the replacement screws from? I am missing a handful of them.
Your post is giving me a list of things to do whenever I install my radio. Previous owner had an aftermarket setup and kept most of it. I did my blend door actuators a few months back. The driver side is a pain in the *** if you have medium-size hands or larger. You don't need to do anything with the airbag for either side.
Your post is giving me a list of things to do whenever I install my radio. Previous owner had an aftermarket setup and kept most of it. I did my blend door actuators a few months back. The driver side is a pain in the *** if you have medium-size hands or larger. You don't need to do anything with the airbag for either side.
I had to remove the passenger airbag to reach the passenger side blend actuator. Do you have dual climate zones? The driver's side definitely was not fun. I could not remember how the plastic HVAC tubes were routed, it took a while to figure that out. My advice is to take pictures along the way, even on small/easy jobs. Can never hurt!
I'll summarize what I did (and didn't do) with a list when I'm done all in one post too.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,583
Likes: 415
From: Erwin, NC
They are technically Fender screws, GM part number is 11570498. That part number will bring you to many non-GM parts as well. I got a cheap set from Amazon since they won't be seeing anything corrosive inside the car.
I had to remove the passenger airbag to reach the passenger side blend actuator. Do you have dual climate zones? The driver's side definitely was not fun. I could not remember how the plastic HVAC tubes were routed, it took a while to figure that out. My advice is to take pictures along the way, even on small/easy jobs. Can never hurt!
I'll summarize what I did (and didn't do) with a list when I'm done all in one post too.
I had to remove the passenger airbag to reach the passenger side blend actuator. Do you have dual climate zones? The driver's side definitely was not fun. I could not remember how the plastic HVAC tubes were routed, it took a while to figure that out. My advice is to take pictures along the way, even on small/easy jobs. Can never hurt!
I'll summarize what I did (and didn't do) with a list when I'm done all in one post too.
Mine is dual climate zones, I believe. I haven't tinkered with it much. I'm an open windows guy 99% of the time. Maybe the '04 model year did something different?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 131
Likes: 25
So, I am pretty much ready to start putting things back together except for:
-Heads Up Display: I have confirmed it is getting power, but there are no lights in the unit. The motor does move and adjusts the mirror. I have replaced the mirror pin and soldered the photo resister leads to eliminate issues. Are there replacement parts for these units, or am I better off buying a used one (or just leaving it non-functional)? Would be cool to see someone revamp this to a more modern display that works off of the same cable form the gauge cluster and in the same physical footprint.
-Shrinking Dashboard Vinyl: It looks as thought the only oversize bezels available are in the $200 range. At that point, I would considering buying a whole new dashboard for a bit more if that is my only other option. Anyone have any other ideas on cheaper ways to fix/cover this up? I'd love to 3D print something, but the bezel is just too big.
-Heads Up Display: I have confirmed it is getting power, but there are no lights in the unit. The motor does move and adjusts the mirror. I have replaced the mirror pin and soldered the photo resister leads to eliminate issues. Are there replacement parts for these units, or am I better off buying a used one (or just leaving it non-functional)? Would be cool to see someone revamp this to a more modern display that works off of the same cable form the gauge cluster and in the same physical footprint.
-Shrinking Dashboard Vinyl: It looks as thought the only oversize bezels available are in the $200 range. At that point, I would considering buying a whole new dashboard for a bit more if that is my only other option. Anyone have any other ideas on cheaper ways to fix/cover this up? I'd love to 3D print something, but the bezel is just too big.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 131
Likes: 25
So, I am pretty much ready to start putting things back together except for:
-Heads Up Display: I have confirmed it is getting power, but there are no lights in the unit. The motor does move and adjusts the mirror. I have replaced the mirror pin and soldered the photo resister leads to eliminate issues. Are there replacement parts for these units, or am I better off buying a used one (or just leaving it non-functional)? Would be cool to see someone revamp this to a more modern display that works off of the same cable form the gauge cluster and in the same physical footprint.
-Shrinking Dashboard Vinyl: It looks as thought the only oversize bezels available are in the $200 range. At that point, I would considering buying a whole new dashboard for a bit more if that is my only other option. Anyone have any other ideas on cheaper ways to fix/cover this up? I'd love to 3D print something, but the bezel is just too big.
-Heads Up Display: I have confirmed it is getting power, but there are no lights in the unit. The motor does move and adjusts the mirror. I have replaced the mirror pin and soldered the photo resister leads to eliminate issues. Are there replacement parts for these units, or am I better off buying a used one (or just leaving it non-functional)? Would be cool to see someone revamp this to a more modern display that works off of the same cable form the gauge cluster and in the same physical footprint.
-Shrinking Dashboard Vinyl: It looks as thought the only oversize bezels available are in the $200 range. At that point, I would considering buying a whole new dashboard for a bit more if that is my only other option. Anyone have any other ideas on cheaper ways to fix/cover this up? I'd love to 3D print something, but the bezel is just too big.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 131
Likes: 25
There is a bulb in the LCD, I believe the two leads closest to the bulb are the leads. They measured ~0.2Ω, so if so, the bulb should be good. Before I throw a 9V on those two leads, I wanted to see if anyone knew if I am incorrect in my assumption.
I don't see any way to replace the bulb without replacing the whole LCD.
There was a small bit of corrosion on the solder side. I'll clean it up with some contact cleaner, but I don't imagine that being the issue.
On the main/control board, I messed up the photo resistor connector off of the main board trying to remove the connector, so I soldered them together right on the board. Everything else looks good on this board, no corrosion.
Running Guns & Moonshine
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 12,672
Likes: 7,304
From: CT
I've seen replacement huds for 141 on ebay last week. You can transplant the good board from an externally scratched unit and get it working. I snapped up a hud/bezel/dimmer for cheapo to convert my non-hud 99 coupe.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 131
Likes: 25
Based on the fact that it has a gigantic heat sync, it is probably the LCD that is bad, I'll try fiddling with some wires, and then a 9 Volt on those two leads next time I have a chance.
Most of the e-Bay HUD's are ~$200 if they are in confirmed working condition. If I am using one as a 'donor', I'd like to confirm what part(s) of the HUD is(are) non-functional, so I don't buy one with the same part(s) broken.
Running Guns & Moonshine
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 12,672
Likes: 7,304
From: CT
That makes perfect sense. I got lucky with the timing and got the hud from a private seller, then got a bezel for 21 and paid a little high in my estimation for the cleanest condition appearing dimmer/harness (some have scratches, missing ****, marks) available from NextGenParts for 60 shipped.
Hopefully the only surgery I will need to do will be soldering the gauge cluster.
While I have it all apart for laughs I am going to see if a C6 cluster connects and/or can send signal out to the C5 hud. If not. I may go so far as to see which plug jumpers might be needed. I don't intend to burn much time or effort on that part so if it is easy.... so be it.... and if not then why bother? I am curious to see the C6 led-lit cluster in the C5 for night driving purposes. I have zero issue with the UV illuminated C5 clusters but a mod is a mod and the C6 Z cluster I grabbed for 89 shipped does have that 7k redline to match the 427 in the car.
Hopefully the only surgery I will need to do will be soldering the gauge cluster.
While I have it all apart for laughs I am going to see if a C6 cluster connects and/or can send signal out to the C5 hud. If not. I may go so far as to see which plug jumpers might be needed. I don't intend to burn much time or effort on that part so if it is easy.... so be it.... and if not then why bother? I am curious to see the C6 led-lit cluster in the C5 for night driving purposes. I have zero issue with the UV illuminated C5 clusters but a mod is a mod and the C6 Z cluster I grabbed for 89 shipped does have that 7k redline to match the 427 in the car.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 131
Likes: 25
That makes perfect sense. I got lucky with the timing and got the hud from a private seller, then got a bezel for 21 and paid a little high in my estimation for the cleanest condition appearing dimmer/harness (some have scratches, missing ****, marks) available from NextGenParts for 60 shipped.
Hopefully the only surgery I will need to do will be soldering the gauge cluster.
While I have it all apart for laughs I am going to see if a C6 cluster connects and/or can send signal out to the C5 hud. If not. I may go so far as to see which plug jumpers might be needed. I don't intend to burn much time or effort on that part so if it is easy.... so be it.... and if not then why bother? I am curious to see the C6 led-lit cluster in the C5 for night driving purposes. I have zero issue with the UV illuminated C5 clusters but a mod is a mod and the C6 Z cluster I grabbed for 89 shipped does have that 7k redline to match the 427 in the car.
Hopefully the only surgery I will need to do will be soldering the gauge cluster.
While I have it all apart for laughs I am going to see if a C6 cluster connects and/or can send signal out to the C5 hud. If not. I may go so far as to see which plug jumpers might be needed. I don't intend to burn much time or effort on that part so if it is easy.... so be it.... and if not then why bother? I am curious to see the C6 led-lit cluster in the C5 for night driving purposes. I have zero issue with the UV illuminated C5 clusters but a mod is a mod and the C6 Z cluster I grabbed for 89 shipped does have that 7k redline to match the 427 in the car.
The missing ***** can probably be 3D printed. I lost one of the metals tabs for the radio *****, so I sent over some CAD files to a buddy and he was able to 3D print some new ***** that don't need the metal tabs. A resin printer would have made them a little prettier, but the price was right!
A 427 in a C5 sounds scary, that has got to be a blast to drive!
Running Guns & Moonshine
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 12,672
Likes: 7,304
From: CT
I don't know yet. I need to pop over and get a fresh blower belt installed on it. The engine itself without boost is definitely comfortably in my wheelhouse. The current setup on E85-only with 16psi on top of the head/cam 427 is not. It was reported as making 850rw at 10psi on pump, but is now un-dyno'd at a much higher level. More than I want, and likely more than most anyone wants as I was able to grab the car at a thief's price with the car fully built. This particular 427 was built 4 years before the LS7 hit the market, so I will be eager to see what it can do with 20 year-old head and cam design once I remove the blower and put it back to NA / pump gas.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 131
Likes: 25
I don't know yet. I need to pop over and get a fresh blower belt installed on it. The engine itself without boost is definitely comfortably in my wheelhouse. The current setup on E85-only with 16psi on top of the head/cam 427 is not. It was reported as making 850rw at 10psi on pump, but is now un-dyno'd at a much higher level. More than I want, and likely more than most anyone wants as I was able to grab the car at a thief's price with the car fully built. This particular 427 was built 4 years before the LS7 hit the market, so I will be eager to see what it can do with 20 year-old head and cam design once I remove the blower and put it back to NA / pump gas.
Can I ask how much she set you back?
2nd Gear
Joined: Sep 2025
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
If you haven't already done so consider changing out the HVAC door actuators for driver and passenger sides.
If you are Houdini you might be able to change the drivers side actuator without taking the dash apart. But the passenger side (which goes out about a week after the driver's side) requires removal of the entire dash so you can remove the passenger side airbag contraption.
The passenger actuator is blocked by the air bag holder.
Also switch out the 4 way flasher since the dashpad is now off. This too is unbelievably difficult to reach with the dash in place. Easy as pie when off.
Don't pinch any wires when replacing the dash or you get to take it completely apart again and tape the wire. (don't ask)
Take both seats out before you start the project. Your back will thank you. It's only a few minutes and they are very light.
Stuff rags in the defroster vent as it is a magnet for your only 8mm socket.
If you are Houdini you might be able to change the drivers side actuator without taking the dash apart. But the passenger side (which goes out about a week after the driver's side) requires removal of the entire dash so you can remove the passenger side airbag contraption.
The passenger actuator is blocked by the air bag holder.
Also switch out the 4 way flasher since the dashpad is now off. This too is unbelievably difficult to reach with the dash in place. Easy as pie when off.
Don't pinch any wires when replacing the dash or you get to take it completely apart again and tape the wire. (don't ask)
Take both seats out before you start the project. Your back will thank you. It's only a few minutes and they are very light.
Stuff rags in the defroster vent as it is a magnet for your only 8mm socket.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 131
Likes: 25
If you can't get to it, all you can do is hope it won't rattle around as you drive!