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Old Feb 8, 2025 | 12:57 AM
  #21  
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Google is your friend. It will tell you. I think there must be a sticky post on the forum somewhere here too with the codes listed.
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Old Feb 8, 2025 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Lerpy
Hello, I came to the car, plugged the BCM and battery. Turned on the car and I still had the "Service Vehicle Soon", "Service Ride Control", Etc. I didn't get the "reduced engine power" with the "Check Gauges" and "ABS" light that all come together when it all started happening 2 days ago (but i'm guessing it's because I didn't put the car out in the road). When I checked for codes this is what I got:

PCM: 1626 H.
28-TCS: U1301, U1016 H.
38-RTD: No comm.
BCM: 1016 H, 1096 H
IPC: No Codes.

What would be the next step in my situation?

Also, I am no genius when it comes to electrical but is it possible that, the corroded parts are the reason why I am getting codes like PCM code 1626H, RTD "No comm." and a bunch of 1016, and 1096 codes in other sections. Appreciate the help.
Ok good. I take it the engine started normally? I would expect those codes at this point. Clear the "H" history codes, and you are left with the RTD problem. The fact that the ride control system has lasted this long in the vehicle life is surprising, so you got your moneys worth. Next to the battery is the underhood fuse box. When you take the cover off, there is a diagram inside the cover that explains where the fuses are. You can check the following to see if the fuses are blown. Minifuse #7, Minifuse #5, and Maxifuse #51. Beyond that, you will need a test light or DMM to do more specific checks. You probably do not know if you have a front or rear mounted EBTCM, so just check Maxifuse #53 as well.

Last edited by lucky131969; Feb 8, 2025 at 09:38 AM.
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Old Feb 8, 2025 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
Ok good. I take it the engine started normally? I would expect those codes at this point. Clear the "H" history codes, and you are left with the RTD problem. The fact that the ride control system has lasted this long in the vehicle life is surprising, so you got your moneys worth. Next to the battery is the underhood fuse box. When you take the cover off, there is a diagram inside the cover that explains where the fuses are. You can check the following to see if the fuses are blown. Minifuse #7, Minifuse #5, and Maxifuse #51. Beyond that, you will need a test light or DMM to do more specific checks. You probably do not know if you have a front or rear mounted EBTCM, so just check Maxifuse #53 as well.
Yes! the car started up no problem. Do you think I can plug the BCM Back on and leave my battery in the car now? And I’ll take your Advice and check for blown fuses as well as clear the codes when I have time. I’ll keep you updated. Thank you pal.
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Old Feb 8, 2025 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Lerpy
Yes! the car started up no problem. Do you think I can plug the BCM Back on and leave my battery in the car now? And I’ll take your Advice and check for blown fuses as well as clear the codes when I have time. I’ll keep you updated. Thank you pal.
Yes button it up. Don'f forget to clean the udder so it drains!
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Old Feb 11, 2025 | 03:21 PM
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Hello, I came here to say that Im probably the most oblivious person In the word. Before I begin with this I get if you call me a idiot but here I go. About 2-3 days ago. My brother called me saying that my C5 stunk pretty bad when he opened the door of the car, jokingly he said that there was probably mold in there. When I got out there and checked the car's carpet, it was wet, soaked. I immediately drove it to my sister in laws house to park it in their garage and take the whole carpet out. On my way there however. All the old lights and messages flooded in... "Reduced Engine power" ABS, ETC. When I started taking out the carpets out of the Hatch. they were all soaked and there was even a puddle of water built up where my Electronic Suspension Module was. (I know that 100% explains why I had the Inoperative shocks message) I Opened my ESCM and this is the nightmare I found:




Moreover, I know my weather seals had to do something with it. (already ordered those)

My brother in law was telling me that the hole where the wiring for the ESCM was leaking because that part was soaked. Which is this part:
I sealed that whole part now with Silicone so water that gets thrown by the wheel doesnt go in there.


I have a bunch of questions...

Why did my "Reduced engine power" along with ABS and Check gauges come back? ( is it 100% the EBCM?)

Is my Suspension Control module cooked? (it prob is) and if is can I get one online and just plug it back in without reprogramming? I also threw in electronic cleaner in the little connections and I also tried cleaning the ESCM to my best ability.

At the point, this car is gonna be a project car for a little bit. (the interior is torn apart because i wanted stuff to dry and to get rid of the mold that was in the carpet. I didn't remove the dash part tho.)

I was super anxious from the start but now I sort of see this as a challenge and for me to learn more about Electrical stuff. When this is all over I will be replacing my Harmonic Balancer and I will be camming it btw.


Thank you.
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Old Feb 11, 2025 | 03:46 PM
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I don't know if the F45 computer is toast or not. But I do know you can put those shocks and the SENSORS at the shock on e-bay and folks will buy them eventually. Like I said, you can borrow a Tech 2 clone or buy a vxdiag to wipe the F45 function and the 80mph limit. And you can toss shocks on to replace the F45s really cheaply and easily. Or less cheaply but just as easily. Your call.
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Old Feb 11, 2025 | 03:53 PM
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I see, so not even replacing the ESCM will clear the 80 MPH limit. I was checking out another forum with a similar issue; https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ol-module.html
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Old Feb 11, 2025 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Lerpy
Hello, I came here to say that Im probably the most oblivious person In the word. Before I begin with this I get if you call me a idiot but here I go. About 2-3 days ago. My brother called me saying that my C5 stunk pretty bad when he opened the door of the car, jokingly he said that there was probably mold in there. When I got out there and checked the car's carpet, it was wet, soaked. I immediately drove it to my sister in laws house to park it in their garage and take the whole carpet out. On my way there however. All the old lights and messages flooded in... "Reduced Engine power" ABS, ETC. When I started taking out the carpets out of the Hatch. they were all soaked and there was even a puddle of water built up where my Electronic Suspension Module was. (I know that 100% explains why I had the Inoperative shocks message) I Opened my ESCM and this is the nightmare I found:




Moreover, I know my weather seals had to do something with it. (already ordered those)

My brother in law was telling me that the hole where the wiring for the ESCM was leaking because that part was soaked. Which is this part:
I sealed that whole part now with Silicone so water that gets thrown by the wheel doesnt go in there.



Why did my "Reduced engine power" along with ABS and Check gauges come back? ( is it 100% the EBCM?)
What codes? Other that than the C1295, you have not posted any codes for the EBCM?

Originally Posted by Lerpy
Is my Suspension Control module cooked? (it prob is) and if is can I get one online and just plug it back in without reprogramming? I also threw in electronic cleaner in the little connections and I also tried cleaning the ESCM to my best ability.
You were already provided a formula for best chance for success when cleaning a PCB, and you did not follow it? Why?
Everything, including the bulkhead wiring and connector need to be blown out with compressed air.

Originally Posted by Lerpy
At the point, this car is gonna be a project car for a little bit. (the interior is torn apart because i wanted stuff to dry and to get rid of the mold that was in the carpet. I didn't remove the dash part tho.)
There is a specific process for getting rid of mold. That **** will make you sick if you do not treat it properly.





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Old Feb 11, 2025 | 05:18 PM
  #29  
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I used the alcohol method for cleaning the board. I just couldnt get inside the little connectors with the brush and air so I resorted to the electronic cleaner which evaporates rather quickly . As for the codes the car is at my sisters in laws house. with the battery disconnected. today I am going to go and plug everything back in to see the codes and ill keep you updated. as for the mold treatment what products do u recommend? Should I clear the codes as well after I note them ?
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Old Feb 11, 2025 | 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Lerpy
I used the alcohol method for cleaning the board. I just couldnt get inside the little connectors with the brush and air so I resorted to the electronic cleaner which evaporates rather quickly . As for the codes the car is at my sisters in laws house. with the battery disconnected. today I am going to go and plug everything back in to see the codes and ill keep you updated. as for the mold treatment what products do u recommend? Should I clear the codes as well after I note them ?
I would take the car to a detailer that specializes in mold remediation. That car must have smelled horrible with that much growth. I wish you luck moving forward.
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Old Feb 11, 2025 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
I would take the car to a detailer that specializes in mold remediation. That car must have smelled horrible with that much growth. I wish you luck moving forward.

Understood. and how do you check the EBCM codes ? Doesn’t show up on the DIC. I also connected the ESCM and It’s definitely cooked. Messages are still there.Though I have the other codes that show up:


10-PCM: No Codes
28-TCS: U1301 H, C1255 H, C1295 H C, U1016
38-RTD: No Comm.
40 BCM: U1255 H, U1016 H, U1096 H
60 IPC: No codes


Forgot to add this but all the fuses you asked me to check are all good.

Last edited by Lerpy; Feb 11, 2025 at 07:01 PM.
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