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Old Feb 5, 2025 | 12:21 PM
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Hey everyone, this morning I woke up to a whole bunch of unfortunate events. When I started my 98 C5 Corvette I noticed that there was a bunch of messages on the DIC that weren't there before when I last rode in my Corvette ranging from "Shocks Inoperative, and Maximum 80 MPH" those are the ones that keep showing up despite me resetting them through the DIC. I also get a weird thing where my Dash Turns on the "Check Gauges" light and a "reduced engine power" message. HOWEVER, those disappear as soon as they come up (maybe 1-2 sec). I also get "Service Vehicle Soon". for this one Im guessing it can be an oil change since I have about 4% Oil life but I could be wrong. (I forgot to reset it when I did an oil change 2.5k miles ago).

NOTE, that it has been pouring rain where I am and its been absolutely freezing. I left the car out in the sun today in case something got wet.

SOMEONE please help, I hate seeing these messages since I baby my car.



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Old Feb 5, 2025 | 01:01 PM
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You have the F45 selectable suspension system. One of the shocks themselves or the sensor has gone bad. Or maybe it hasn't, but the car believes it has. As a safety factor so you don't spin off the highway at high speed it reduces your speed to 80mph or under until resolved.

Replacements are not really available unless a new aftermarket supply has come up. The affordable move is to swap your shocks out for Bilsteins or factory C6 shocks. Bilsteins are about $400. RockAuto bargain basement base model C5 shocks are like $120. GM replacements are probably somewhere in between depending on source.

You will need someone near you when the suspension work is done who has a Tech 2 programmer to disable the F45 RPO in the car so it will no longer throw codes. The driver side trunk cubby has a computer behind the velcro fabric cover which needs to be unplugged or removed. If you reconnect it at any point the car will reinitiate the F45 RPO and you'll be back to that 80mph limit. You can do the Tech 2 yourself if you have a laptop and vxdiag software/adapter which emulates the Tech 2. Itself always a chinese clone of the original Bosch $20,000 GM tool.

Great time to upgrade the springs too if you're on the base model. These cars love the Z51 and Z06 suspensions. I lean more towards the Z51 for street comfort/performance matrix on factory style suspension. I will say I prefer coilovers replacing the entire leaf/shock combo.

As for your other messages, google how to run the codes through the dash display and look up the codes it gives you.
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Old Feb 5, 2025 | 01:12 PM
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Thank you for your response.

I was looking around on the forums and I seen that the issue can be that the BCM got wet during the storm and its throwing a bunch of warnings. Can that possibly be it? Some people were having the same "Reduced Engine Power" and Other similar Messages
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Old Feb 5, 2025 | 01:17 PM
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Anything is possible.

If your F45 is still working 27 years later, that is awesome.
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Old Feb 5, 2025 | 01:27 PM
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The car was working just fine before the storm. Which is why I think it might be the BCM that got wet during all the chaos. I had no Warnings 2 days ago besides my "change oil soon" and my "service traction control" but those I know why they are there.
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Old Feb 5, 2025 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Lerpy
The car was working just fine before the storm. Which is why I think it might be the BCM that got wet during all the chaos. I had no Warnings 2 days ago besides my "change oil soon" and my "service traction control" but those I know why they are there.
So you are saying you checked the passenger footwell and BCM area and discovered evidence of moisture, wet carpet, etc?

Post your codes.
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Old Feb 5, 2025 | 05:38 PM
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My BCM Codes are: U1016, and U1096
My TCS codes are: C1295 (but thats bc of my LEDs) and U1016


Why does the 1016 Code keep coming up? is my BCM Cooked ? HELP
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Old Feb 5, 2025 | 05:46 PM
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And also, should I start drying my BCM out ? I looked around my carpert and it was a little damp, I felt moisture around that area.
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Old Feb 5, 2025 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Lerpy
And also, should I start drying my BCM out ? I looked around my carpert and it was a little damp, I felt moisture around that area.
Yes. Disconnect the battery ASAP. Remove the BCM. Hopefully there is a cover on the fuse panel. Do whatever you have to do to see what all is impacted. You will have to open up the BCM to see how bad it is.

You will also have to clear the clog from the udder, which is most likely why the water backed up.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...de-udders.html
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Old Feb 5, 2025 | 08:26 PM
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I disconnected the battery, removed the BCM, tried drying it for like 15-20 min with a Blow dryer. Connected it back up, started the car back up and the DIC screen started flooding me with messages like "Reduced Engine Power", ABS light, and "check tire pressure". I Immediately disconnected the battery once again, and took it out so I can take a look inside the BCM and this is what I found:



Let me know if that looks bad. but that top part looks like corrosion to me. what do u think ????

I have also have videos of when I got flooded up with messages if that interests you. THANK YOU Lucky.
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Old Feb 6, 2025 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Lerpy
I disconnected the battery, removed the BCM, tried drying it for like 15-20 min with a Blow dryer. Connected it back up, started the car back up and the DIC screen started flooding me with messages like "Reduced Engine Power", ABS light, and "check tire pressure". I Immediately disconnected the battery once again, and took it out so I can take a look inside the BCM and this is what I found:



Let me know if that looks bad. but that top part looks like corrosion to me. what do u think ????

I have also have videos of when I got flooded up with messages if that interests you. THANK YOU Lucky.
Yes, looks like electromigration (shorts) between many areas. You can try to clean the surface with isopropanol and a nylon brush. Blow dry with a clean compressed air source. 50/50 chance of recovery.

I'm surprised there is no DTC set with the "shocks inoperative" message. Are you reading the codes from the DIC ?
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Old Feb 6, 2025 | 03:14 PM
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Yes, I am reading out the codes that the DIC was giving me. And I am going to the store today so i can get the Isopropanol Alcohol and nylon brush. When brushing with the Alcohol what do I hope to get off?? How long should I Scrub for? would a regular blow drier on high heat work? When the cleaning is done Do I just put everything as it was? If it works out is the messages going to automatically go away when the car is turned on?

Thanks.
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Old Feb 6, 2025 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Lerpy
Yes, I am reading out the codes that the DIC was giving me. And I am going to the store today so i can get the Isopropanol Alcohol and nylon brush. When brushing with the Alcohol what do I hope to get off?? How long should I Scrub for? would a regular blow drier on high heat work? When the cleaning is done Do I just put everything as it was? If it works out is the messages going to automatically go away when the car is turned on?

Thanks.

Originally Posted by Lerpy
Yes, I am reading out the codes that the DIC was giving me. And I am going to the store today so i can get the Isopropanol Alcohol and nylon brush. When brushing with the Alcohol what do I hope to get off??
The residue on the printed circuit board bridging the circuits that is not supposed to be there.

Originally Posted by Lerpy
8545901]How long should I Scrub for?
Are you f-ing with me ? Until the residue is removed....IF it works.

Originally Posted by Lerpy
would a regular blow drier on high heat work?
No. Some stores carry cans of compressed air for cleaning keyboards, that will work too.

Originally Posted by Lerpy
When the cleaning is done Do I just put everything as it was?
Is this a trick question? How else will you find out if you were successful?

Originally Posted by Lerpy
If it works out is the messages going to automatically go away when the car is turned on?

Thanks.
No, because it looks like you have a problem with RTD. The DTC preciptates the messages, that's why I'm surprised you do not have any. To my knowledge, RTD does not have any input from the BCM. Cleaning up the BCM was to address (and hopefully mitigate) the water leak that you had.

The codes you posted "U1016 and U1096"..... U1016 is loss of communication with the PCM, and U1096 is loss of communication with the IPC.

Get it cleaned up, put everything back together, make sure you have a fully charged battery...and see if she fires up. Then try to clear the codes.
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Old Feb 6, 2025 | 03:52 PM
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sorry for the dumb questions, just want to make sure I don't f*8k with anything. So what I am getting from your message is that all those messages like "reduced engine power" has nothing to do with the BCM? Ill let you know what happens after once I clean it up and put everything back together. Again, sorry for the stupid questions and I do really appreciate you helping me.
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Old Feb 6, 2025 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Lerpy
sorry for the dumb questions, just want to make sure I don't f*8k with anything. So what I am getting from your message is that all those messages like "reduced engine power" has nothing to do with the BCM? Ill let you know what happens after once I clean it up and put everything back together. Again, sorry for the stupid questions and I do really appreciate you helping me.
No worries. I can't emphasize enough the importance of having a good fully charged battery.
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Old Feb 6, 2025 | 04:01 PM
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Yes, I just got this battery not too long ago, it was very expensive battery and right now its just sitting in my closet while I get this issue resolved. Be honest with me right now, out of 10 how f**kd am I in this situation? Thanks.
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Old Feb 6, 2025 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Lerpy
Yes, I just got this battery not too long ago, it was very expensive battery and right now its just sitting in my closet while I get this issue resolved. Be honest with me right now, out of 10 how f**kd am I in this situation? Thanks.
0.5 out of 10. Relax.
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Old Feb 7, 2025 | 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
0.5 out of 10. Relax.
Greetings, I just wanted to update you with the situation. I cleaned it yesterday with The Products you listed and put it back as it was.

This is the after results. Later today I’m going to plug it back in as well as my battery to turn on the car on. Is there anything I’m hoping to see when the car is on with the cleaned BCM. Thank you.
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Old Feb 7, 2025 | 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Lerpy
Greetings, I just wanted to update you with the situation. I cleaned it yesterday with The Products you listed and put it back as it was.

This is the after results. Later today I’m going to plug it back in as well as my battery to turn on the car on. Is there anything I’m hoping to see when the car is on with the cleaned BCM. Thank you.
Looks much better. As already explained, drying out the BCM and cleaning the shorts was a preventative measure given the leak. Make sure the BCM connectors on the unit and car side are free of moisture as well(if you have not already) before plugging in. Ideally, everything should work related to the BCM, and you will just have to troubleshoot the RTD issue. Don't forget to unclog the udder on that side or it will happen again.
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Old Feb 8, 2025 | 12:31 AM
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Hello, I came to the car, plugged the BCM and battery. Turned on the car and I still had the "Service Vehicle Soon", "Service Ride Control", Etc. I didn't get the "reduced engine power" with the "Check Gauges" and "ABS" light that all come together when it all started happening 2 days ago (but i'm guessing it's because I didn't put the car out in the road). When I checked for codes this is what I got:

PCM: 1626 H.
28-TCS: U1301, U1016 H.
38-RTD: No comm.
BCM: 1016 H, 1096 H
IPC: No Codes.

What would be the next step in my situation?

Also, I am no genius when it comes to electrical but is it possible that, the corroded parts are the reason why I am getting codes like PCM code 1626H, RTD "No comm." and a bunch of 1016, and 1096 codes in other sections. Appreciate the help.

Last edited by Lerpy; Feb 8, 2025 at 01:45 AM.
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