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Help with knock sensors!!!

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Old Mar 6, 2025 | 07:29 PM
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Default Help with knock sensors!!!

I took the intake off to change the knock sensors, braided hose for the oil pressure sensor, and to change the gaskets. The knock sensor wires have been severed on the harness side. Was just the two connection points, and the cut wires barely sticking out. Can I run two wires to the ECU pinned at 11, and 51. Do I have to ground the wires too? Do I need a whole new harness. Should I give up, and take it to a mechanic? Help please. I would prefer to do the work myself cause I'm pretty sure a mechanic is just going to replace the entire engine harness. Much appreciated
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Old Mar 6, 2025 | 10:26 PM
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If you can splice them back together you'll be fine. Take a pic of what you're seeing.
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Old Mar 7, 2025 | 09:11 AM
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Replacement knock harness is cheap.
Dorman makes a harness.
Amazon Amazon
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Old Mar 7, 2025 | 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by cdee63
Replacement knock harness is cheap.
Dorman makes a harness.
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-917-03...s%2C164&sr=8-1
Unfortunately the OP's problem is the wire harness side
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Old Mar 7, 2025 | 11:37 AM
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I agree with merv. You can splice those wires just fine. Just to a good job. Also I'm not sure what you mean about grounding. Just repair the harness so it is like OEM.


Also be very careful replacing Gen 3 knock sensors. I have seen people replace perfectly good sensors because they think they are doing the right thing, only to induce never ended knock sensor codes. Auto parts store knock sensors are crap. Even the replacement Delphi or AC Delco knock sensor are crap.
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Old Mar 7, 2025 | 12:01 PM
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Sorry to the OP, dumbass me didn't notice the harness part.
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Old Mar 7, 2025 | 02:58 PM
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As was mentioned....splice the wires and you'll be fine.
Depending on where the splice is, I highly suggest using either liquid electrical tape or the waterproof kind of heat shrink tubing if you have the space.
I don't use the regular kind of heat shrink tubing anymore...lesson learned from marine application.
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Old Mar 7, 2025 | 05:36 PM
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I use the heat shrink tubing that seals on both ends.
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Old Mar 8, 2025 | 09:11 AM
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I would also recommend soldering wires over crimping them, and yes, use shrink tubing. Thru the years I've had several crimped connections fail, or go intermittent, and some were crimped by "professionals." In all the soldered connections I've done in my 55+ years of doing this stuff, I've never had a soldered connection fail. Ever.....
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Old Mar 8, 2025 | 10:33 AM
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Use marine heat shrink. Filled with goo that melts and seals the connection. I have used it on snowmobile trailer lighting for years with great results.
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Old Mar 8, 2025 | 11:34 AM
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I use similar but they are aircraft spec. Those are great to use. The glue on the end seals and the tube hardens when it shrinks. Crimp the splice and put one of them on it's solid.
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Old Mar 8, 2025 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by the_merv
I use similar but they are aircraft spec. Those are great to use. The glue on the end seals and the tube hardens when it shrinks. Crimp the splice and put one of them on it's solid.
Are you talking about the RayChem Enviro Splices?

I've used those at work for a hundred years. They are probably the best crimp style splices on earth.

At home I am cheap ***. I splice by either solder and adhesive heat shrink or if I am in a hurry or without power I use the un insulated barrel crimps and adhesive heat shrink.
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Old Mar 8, 2025 | 01:11 PM
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Yup those are it. That splice with the proper crimper and the tube over it fully sealed in you can't beat them.

For those who don't know what we are talking about, they are not cheap but they WORK.

https://www.prowireusa.com/raychem-miniseal-splices
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Old Mar 8, 2025 | 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by grinder11
I would also recommend soldering wires over crimping them, and yes, use shrink tubing. Thru the years I've had several crimped connections fail, or go intermittent, and some were crimped by "professionals." In all the soldered connections I've done in my 55+ years of doing this stuff, I've never had a soldered connection fail. Ever.....
solder and heat shrink tubing,only use butt splices in temp/emergency ( automotive ) repairs.
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Old Mar 8, 2025 | 11:55 PM
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What me and @Mr. Black are talking about are stuff that's MIL Standard accepted to run with military aircraft in the air. I use them on a daily basis at work because that's what I do. They aren't your normal butt connector and way better than soldering.
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Old Mar 11, 2025 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by the_merv
If you can splice them back together you'll be fine. Take a pic of what you're seeing.


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Old Mar 11, 2025 | 11:16 AM
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You should be able to find a replacement pigtail at all sorts of places including Amazon.

Example

https://www.wiringspecialties.com/ls...xPsBHOSc&gQT=2



Then splice to repair appropriately.
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Old Mar 11, 2025 | 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Black
I agree with merv. You can splice those wires just fine. Just to a good job. Also I'm not sure what you mean about grounding. Just repair the harness so it is like OEM.


Also be very careful replacing Gen 3 knock sensors. I have seen people replace perfectly good sensors because they think they are doing the right thing, only to induce never ended knock sensor codes. Auto parts store knock sensors are crap. Even the replacement Delphi or AC Delco knock sensor are crap.
I have read all the horror stories I'm aware. The first knock sensor I put in broke off at the threading bolt with maybe 10lbs of pressure. It was fun fishing that out at the bottom of the cylinder. 🙄 I got two good ones as in they didn't fall apart when torquing.... Took the car to a mechanic to splice back into the harness. I'm comfortable splicing, but not on an engine harness that will cost me thousands of dollars if I eff it up.
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Old Mar 11, 2025 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by C5BD
I have read all the horror stories I'm aware. The first knock sensor I put in broke off at the threading bolt with maybe 10lbs of pressure. It was fun fishing that out at the bottom of the cylinder. 🙄 I got two good one...fingers crossed. Took the car to a mechanic to splice back into the harness. I'm comfortable splicing, but not on an engine harness that will cost me thousands of dollars if I eff it up.
Nah, you are overthinking this. It is just two wires in the main harness that are very long that should go to the pigtail I posted above. You can't eff this up that bad.

I wish I was there, we'd have this fixed up in minutes.
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Old Mar 11, 2025 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by C5BD

Yup been there. I have all kinds of extra GM wiring and connectors. This case I would un-pin and put in a couple that are long enough to splice in.

Ordering one won't hurt if you don't have stuff on hand.
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