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The yellow wire with black strip is a ground provided by the BCM, if you measured with the other lead connected to ground you will see 0 volts, you have to connect one lead to a 12v source, like one side of a fuse from the fuse box and the yellow black stripped wire.
...or you can make it simple and just turn the dial to measure resistance.
Originally Posted by mmartinez
The Ignition switch should be in the run position, not necessary to hold the switch in the start position.
Actually it is if you are trying to evaluate 12 volts at C2 of the TDR connector (yellow wire).
Voltmeter with positive lead in the pigtail for the TDR (which is the relay on the left correct?) and the negative lead clamped onto the negative battery post I get 12.19 volts from the yellow wire when the key is turned to the crank position.
The yellow wire with the stripe, when the key is turned to the crank position I get 0.07v.
When connected to the voltmeter, the wire that is yellow with the black stripe gives me 0.00 volts with the key in the ON position.
I don’t know if I need to say this, but I will, when I was conducting this test, I had removed the relay so that I could put the probe in to the pigtail.
If I push start the car and then drive it for a minute or two and then shut it down, I can restart it with no problem every time.
A small distinction, but specifics matter. What you are probing is a connector, not a pigtail. A pigtail is a connector that has wires connected, but has not yet been terminated to a harness, system, etc.
Ok. I went back in just now. Black lead of my voltmeter in the yellow/black pigtail spot and the red lead on the voltmeter on the positive battery post.
I get 0.00 volts with the key in the run position and 11.9 volts in the crank position.
Ok. I went back in just now. Black lead of my voltmeter in the yellow/black pigtail spot and the red lead on the voltmeter on the positive battery post.
I get 0.00 volts with the key in the run position and 11.9 volts in the crank position.
That's good, and tells you the BCM is supplying the necessary ground to the TDR. .....but..your battery voltage is low.
Yeah, yes, I did replace the relay. I just verified it in the car. I replaced the relay on the left, the one that has the yellow wire with the black stripe.
these are how the relays are oriented above the BCM. The relay on the left is the one that was replaced and was originally a four pin however, the four pin replacements do not fit so I got a five pin. The relay on the right has not been replaced.
...or you can make it simple and just turn the dial to measure resistance.
Actually it is if you are trying to evaluate 12 volts at C2 of the TDR connector (yellow wire).
can you explain this a little bit more, please? Is this something that I need to do? I’m really lost. I feel like I have tried everything. Everything that is except for a new cylinder.
I found this in another thread. I wonder if I tried this if it might give any further insight on the problem.
Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
I press the Clutch to the floor and Turn the key to CRANK If it doesnt crank, WHILE HOLDING THE KEY IN CRANK, let up on the clutch just enough to release that clutch safety switch. Use the clutch switch to open and shut that switch and LISTEN for the TDR relay to click each time you open and shut that switch. If you dont hear the relay open and close, you have a problem in the relay control circuit or the relay. If the relay clicks, the issue is on the 12VDC High Current side RED/PURPLE wires or the relay contacts for the red purple wires inside the relay. My 98 Coupe TDR relay was FULL OF WATER/corrosion because of a condensation leak.
Hello Nick, I am still available to help you solve your cars no crank problem.
Thank you Sir!
Cleaning up all of my data so far, while trying to make it readable, heres what I know:
-I have attempted two keys (black with resistors from GM)
-New ignition switch
-New battery
-Battery terminals are clean and tight.
-Throttle body is cleaned with throttle body fluid and verified it moves with the gas pedal movement.
-I cleaned the grounds under the hood (3 locations)
-All power in the cabin works.
-Steering wheel is not locked
-Security light flashes when I remove the key
-When the key is inserted I can hear a click from the in-cabin fuse panel.
-All fuses seem good and I even swapped the J-Case fuses (relays) under the hood from the lights and the starter to make sure it worked.
-Tapping the starter did not help.
-Starter removed and bench tested, passed.
-Jumper between the red and violet wires at the TDR socket starts the car in neutral (6 speed)
-TDR clicks when you turn the key to the start position of the ignition switch.
-I cleaned the key cylinder with electric contact cleaner. The keys are also clean.
-The 60 Amp IGN 2 fuse has power with the key in the off position. If I turn the key to on or start, it loses power.
-The 10 amp CRK fuse is receiving power when I turn the key to the start position.
-The clutch pedal start switch gets power when the key is turned to the start position.
-Placing a jumper wire in between the connections on the clutch pedal sensor did not allow the car to start.
-Fuse 19 under the hood (ENGIGN1) has power with key in both the ON position and Start position.
-I get 12.19 volts from the TDR yellow wire when the key is turned to the crank position.
-The TDR yellow wire with black stripe: when the key is turned to the crank position I get 0.07v.
-The TDR yellow stripped wire gives me 0.00 volts with the key in the ON position.
-If I push start the car and then drive it for a minute or two and then shut it down, I can restart it with no problem every time.
-Voltage on the TDR yellow/black wire is 0.00 volts with the key in the run position and 11.9 volts in the crank position. (probably from the seat and steering wheel moving so many times during testing)
I belive that you have a problem with the Ignition switch, the set of contacts that send power out to start the car are not making up. Many made in China Ignition switches are out there and many people have had to change them three times before they got a good one. Many people have disassembled a new switch and repaired their switches themselves.
I wasn’t aware of that. I disassembled the factory ignition switch and slightly bent the contacts and slightly sanded them to ensure they had good contact, but if that’s original then it’s for over 120k on it so my effort may have been in vain.
The replacement I got is from a company called Standard. Oreilleys offers another brand AC Delco, meanwhile AutoZone offers Duralast and AC Delco.
I can return the Standard one.
If I’m reading correctly, Duralast is made in Germany while AC Delco is made in China.
I I’m going to drive over to AutoZone and pick up their Duralast. Maybe that will work better. I can test it this weekend.
Sounds good, I hope that solves the cars no crank problem, because it seems you have done just about everything without actually correcting the problem. Curious that it seems to work sometimes, and even starts on its own after a push start. One other thing to check for is corrosion on the socket for the TDR, blocked drain bladders can cause water to leak inside the car and cause problems.
Cleaning up all of my data so far, while trying to make it readable, heres what I know:
-I have attempted two keys (black with resistors from GM)
-New ignition switch
-New battery
-Battery terminals are clean and tight.
-Throttle body is cleaned with throttle body fluid and verified it moves with the gas pedal movement.
-I cleaned the grounds under the hood (3 locations)
-All power in the cabin works.
-Steering wheel is not locked
-Security light flashes when I remove the key
-When the key is inserted I can hear a click from the in-cabin fuse panel.
-All fuses seem good and I even swapped the J-Case fuses (relays) under the hood from the lights and the starter to make sure it worked.
-Tapping the starter did not help.
-Starter removed and bench tested, passed.
-Jumper between the red and violet wires at the TDR socket starts the car in neutral (6 speed)
-TDR clicks when you turn the key to the start position of the ignition switch.
-I cleaned the key cylinder with electric contact cleaner. The keys are also clean.
-The 60 Amp IGN 2 fuse has power with the key in the off position. If I turn the key to on or start, it loses power.
-The 10 amp CRK fuse is receiving power when I turn the key to the start position.
-The clutch pedal start switch gets power when the key is turned to the start position.
-Placing a jumper wire in between the connections on the clutch pedal sensor did not allow the car to start.
-Fuse 19 under the hood (ENGIGN1) has power with key in both the ON position and Start position.
-I get 12.19 volts from the TDR yellow wire when the key is turned to the crank position.
-The TDR yellow wire with black stripe: when the key is turned to the crank position I get 0.07v.
-The TDR yellow stripped wire gives me 0.00 volts with the key in the ON position.
-If I push start the car and then drive it for a minute or two and then shut it down, I can restart it with no problem every time.
-Voltage on the TDR yellow/black wire is 0.00 volts with the key in the run position and 11.9 volts in the crank position. (probably from the seat and steering wheel moving so many times during testing)
To dive into the #6 thing you did, did you clean just the frame and the mounting tab with the bolt hole in it? Because if that is all you did, you need to go further. You need to actually pry apart the plastic insert from the main body. When you do this, you will see a bunch of male pins that plug into female pins. These need a good cleaning with, say, #120 grit wet/dry (black) sandpaper and spray contact cleaner. Clean with compressed air and contact clean, then plug them back into each other. Before bolting back to the frame seal the black plastic perimeter with dielectric grease. This will help keep corrosion from re-entering the contacts. Bolt the assembled unit back onto the frame, and coat with some more dielectric grease. If you're only cleaning the frame and mounting tab, that isn't enough. Maybe someone here can post a Pic of what I'm trying to describe. Best of luck to you......
