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Never heard about a VATS bypass module? Most people simply soulder some resistors at the BCM connector after cutting the two wires from the Ignition switch. Simply measure your car keys resistor pellet and purchase two resistors to match the resistance value of the key pellet.
Always thought adding a resistor was the old way of doing it, they make a module that does the same thing. Check it out, made by Gator and sold by CLK supplies.
The module is the easy way of bypassing VATS, can you hear the TDR click on when you turn the key to the start position of the Ignition switch? The TDR is located under the
passenger footwell area behind the toe board and above the BCM, it is the relay that sends power to energize the starter.
Should be easy to hear, you can always remove the toe board, or have a second person try to start the car after you position yourself to try to hear the relay.
Sounds about right, so it seems that the TDR is being energized, the TDR has four wires, a red, violet, two yellow wires one of which a black strip. The red should have 12v all the time regardless of Ignition switch position even if the key is not inserted. The violet wire should have 12v when the switch is held in the start position, and it is the wire that connects to the starter solenoid. A simple test is to use a simple wire jumper and insert it between the red and violet wires at the TDR socket, make absolutely certain that the car is in neutral, this test will determine if the starter is the cause of the no crank problem. Examine the cables at the starter solenoid insuring they are clean and tight.
Need to see the TDR to better understand where I would be inserting the jumper wire. So if the car does start with the jumper wire, this points to the starter being bad or maybe the solenoid?
No, if it starts that means the TDR is bad, if it doesn't crank with the jumper it means the starter solenoid or bad electrical connections of cables at the starter solenoid.
Did the jumper wire and the car cranked but did not turn on, guessing didn’t turn on since I didn’t have the key in the ignition and turned to the start position since I’m trying this by myself
Had my son turn the key while I was using the jumper cable and the car started, this is great news. Now I will find a store that sells the relay and hopefully reply next time with mission accomplished. Really appreciate the help Martinez.
Had my son turn the key while I was using the jumper cable and the car started, this is great news. Now I will find a store that sells the relay and hopefully reply next time with mission accomplished. Really appreciate the help Martinez.
I installed a new Standard brand starter relay # RY282 in passenger side footwell.
Old relay was Omron brand # 12177235 which may or may not be bad? causing an intermittent NO CRANK issue. I took it apart and cleaned up some of its contacts and will keep it for a spare.
I installed a new Standard brand starter relay # RY282 in passenger side footwell.
Old relay was Omron brand # 12177235 which may or may not be bad? causing an intermittent NO CRANK issue. I took it apart and cleaned up some of its contacts and will keep it for a spare.
I have the same Omron as you, ordered another one from Amazon, comes in tomorrow.
I tested my ignition switch when I was trying to figure out the problem and it tested good. I installed a bypass module for the VATS, hopefully this new TDR relay will be the end of the intermittent no start problem.