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I am installing a new cam, cylinder hds, and valve train. Is there a suggested break in period and rules to follow?
For best results follow the manufacturer's recommendations. That's always a better starting point than some random goober on the internet with no vested interest in your project.
This installation guide is from Comp Cams, other manufacturers will have their own documentation.
For best results follow the manufacturer's recommendations. That's always a better starting point than some random goober on the internet with no vested interest in your project.
This installation guide is from Comp Cams, other manufacturers will have their own documentation.
I'm not sure why you would post instructions for flat tappet cam break in for an engine with a roller cam.
There is no break in procedure for a roller cam or its lifters.
For best results follow the manufacturer's recommendations. That's always a better starting point than some random goober on the internet with no vested interest in your project.
This installation guide is from Comp Cams, other manufacturers will have their own documentation.
I'm sure you are just citing an example here, but flat tappet design does not apply here......
I'm sure you are just citing an example here, but flat tappet design does not apply here......
Agreed, and their guide seems to indicate the inner spring removal is what they are referencing for the flat tappet design while the other part applies to all cams. But the document isn't perfectly clear on that which is why there is an included phone number one can call.
Would be interesting to know which specific cam the OP is using and if that manufacturer says 'no break-in needed'.
The OP has also stated he has more to consider than just the cam and lifters. He also states "valve train," and if that includes new springs there is actually a break-in of sorts. Most manufacturers recommend 1 heat cycle before any high rpm is attempted. A heat cycle as they define it is that the entire engine, including coolant AND oil temps, be brought up to normal temps. Then the engine should be allowed to cool to ambient temps. I agree with what lucky said about the manufacturer should have provided recommendations. The roller cam and lifters are ready for maximum use from the get go. If you are reusing springs, which I doubt you are, or should be, then it's ready to scream now.....
if that includes new springs there is actually a break-in of sorts. Most manufacturers recommend 1 heat cycle before any high rpm is attempted. A heat cycle as they define it is that the entire engine, including coolant AND oil temps, be brought up to normal temps. Then the engine should be allowed to cool to ambient temps..
99% of people are going to just naturally do this whether they want to or not just in the process of getting the engine put back together and a few test runs and leak checks before they go out and beat on the thing.
That being said, there are bazillions of valve springs out there in engines that have been put together and slapped straight on a dyno. Is it ideal? probably not but more often than not you will have no problems. Modern valve springs are pretty incredible.
Agreed, and their guide seems to indicate the inner spring removal is what they are referencing for the flat tappet design while the other part applies to all cams. But the document isn't perfectly clear on that which is why there is an included phone number one can call.
Would be interesting to know which specific cam the OP is using and if that manufacturer says 'no break-in needed'.
No.
The inner valve spring removal is to reduce the load on the face of the tappet during break in. Modern oils are not made for flat tappet cams and new cam failures are more common. That being said I really don't know why anybody would bother with a flat tappet cam in anything anymore.
Come on. Most classic cars, especially those on the original side.....have flat tapped cams. I guess you are limiting your friend-pool
Guess I'm one of those people that "bothered" installing a solid 30/30 cam in my 65.
lol I was speaking on behalf of going into an old engine that deep and leaving one in there. Not somebody that owns and drives a perfectly good running old car.
The chances are slim but if I were in the situation of owning an old small or big block of any brand and the engine was opened up for any reason, it is getting likely converted to roller cam!
lol I was speaking on behalf of going into an old engine that deep and leaving one in there. Not somebody that owns and drives a perfectly good running old car.
The chances are slim but if I were in the situation of owning an old small or big block of any brand and the engine was opened up for any reason, it is getting likely converted to roller cam!
To be fair, if I develop a problem on my 65 327, it will be replaced with a roller 383.
99% of people are going to just naturally do this whether they want to or not just in the process of getting the engine put back together and a few test runs and leak checks before they go out and beat on the thing.
That being said, there are bazillions of valve springs out there in engines that have been put together and slapped straight on a dyno. Is it ideal? probably not but more often than not you will have no problems. Modern valve springs are pretty incredible.
I agree on modern spring tech. I just had Tony Mamo rebuild my LS7 heads. I know, this is a C5 forum, but springs are springs. Anyway, I had 53,000 miles (!!) on my PAC 1905 springs. I had Tony check them to see if they were still within tolerance with that many miles with a .600" lift cam. Turns out they were still within PAC specs. I did this because after posting on LS1 Tech that I was still running springs that were 10 years old with 50,000+ miles on them, and I had one cam lobe bite the dust. Most everyone came down on me big time for running springs that long, and it was my own fault for leaving them in too long, as they had lost tension. Turns out they were incorrect!!! All 16 springs were in spec. One thing the LS platform has done is push valve spring tech.....
I'm not sure why you would post instructions for flat tappet cam break in for an engine with a roller cam.
There is no break in procedure for a roller cam or its lifters.
He likely has no idea what a roller cam vs. a flat tappet cam is. A cam's a cam, and he read these instructions somewhere on the internet so they must be right!