Wrap Headers or Ceramic Coat Instead?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 413
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From: Bloomfield Hills Michigan
Wrap Headers or Ceramic Coat Instead?
I installed a set of stainless steel Billy Boat headers on my '98 convertible ages ago along with their x-pipe, high-flow cats and PRT's. I'm pretty happy with the set up (although the left hand header was a HUGE pain in the butt to install) - but now have managed to melt my O2 connectors and I feel like I'm starting to slowly cook everything under the hood!
Back in the day I used heat wrap on a set of budget steel headers (Pontiac Trans-Am days...) and that just seemed to rapidly accelerate their decomposition into a pile of rust. I've read all kinds of opinions that with stainless steel the trapped heat anneals the metal and weakens it and on and on...
Is sending them out to get coated a better option or is wrapping them just fine?
Any thoughts greatly appreciated!
Jeff
Back in the day I used heat wrap on a set of budget steel headers (Pontiac Trans-Am days...) and that just seemed to rapidly accelerate their decomposition into a pile of rust. I've read all kinds of opinions that with stainless steel the trapped heat anneals the metal and weakens it and on and on...
Is sending them out to get coated a better option or is wrapping them just fine?
Any thoughts greatly appreciated!
Jeff
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Orlando Florida
I’ve done both on fully faired motorcycle exhaust, and the coating was clearly better at heat reduction. I did not leave the wrap on long enough to degrade the steel, but it only provided about half the heat reduction (my main goal). I used a JetHot competitor that was local to me. They sand or bead blasted the exhaust and then coated both inner and outer surfaces, which is where I think that reduction in radiant heat came from.
Safety Car
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Look into Cerakote for coating your headers and even the rest of the exhaust.
Cerakote.com - Global Leader in Thin-Film Ceramic Coatings | Cerakote
Cerakote.com - Global Leader in Thin-Film Ceramic Coatings | Cerakote
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '25
I agree with having them coated, mine are.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Orlando Florida
I did a quick google search on exhaust coatings near me and there are three shops in Orlando area. Sent a request for an estimate to the shop that looked the most like what I had used in the past. Asked for an estimate on surface preparation and coating of both inner and outer surfaces of a previously used set of LS1 stainless steel long tube headers. Which, as luck may have it, I have in my shed right now. Maybe it won't be shocking. When I had the bike pipes done, it was about $150 or so. I image this may be a bit more than that...
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '25
Pricewise, I believe mine were about $850~ last year.
Pro
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Team Owner
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From: Western NY
Swain was one of the pioneers in ceramic/thermal barrier coatings. They've been in the business for over 40 years, and the Swain brothers, themselves, were heavily involved in oval track racing, which was their personal "test bed" for their products.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2000
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From: Maryland
I used Swaintech on my ARH headers. Underhood temps during track days seemed cooler than when I had the stock exhaust. Several friends had used the paint on (ie jet hot) type of coatings and they never lasted long on a track car (one guy got maybe 3 years at best).
But, Swaintech doesn't last forever either. Mine started to flake off in some areas at around 10 years. I called to ask as I didn't remember seeing anything on their web site about it and the guy got a major attitude. Don't know why it set him off, I was just asking if it was typical, not demanding a free re-coat. They were great to deal with when I originally had them coated. That coating is significantly thicker than the others and very tough to remove when new (think angle grinder).
Don't remember what it cost but it was not cheap!
But, Swaintech doesn't last forever either. Mine started to flake off in some areas at around 10 years. I called to ask as I didn't remember seeing anything on their web site about it and the guy got a major attitude. Don't know why it set him off, I was just asking if it was typical, not demanding a free re-coat. They were great to deal with when I originally had them coated. That coating is significantly thicker than the others and very tough to remove when new (think angle grinder).
Don't remember what it cost but it was not cheap!
Le Mans Master
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From: Florida
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Engine Masters measured a 59° drop in surface temperature with wrap, vs 10° drop with ceramic coat. This test was performed in a controlled environment using the same engine for each medium. I watched that episode when it aired, but can’t find a YouTube of that episode to attach.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...s-s7-ep10.html
All the talk about wrap rusting headers goes back to the days of mild steel. Stainless steel is not going to rust. I’ve had ceramic coated headers and they’re still hot as f—-, and ceramic doesn’t last forever either.
My SE headers are going in this fall….with DEI titanium wrap. I drive the car about 1500 miles a year, so it should last many moons.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...s-s7-ep10.html
All the talk about wrap rusting headers goes back to the days of mild steel. Stainless steel is not going to rust. I’ve had ceramic coated headers and they’re still hot as f—-, and ceramic doesn’t last forever either.
My SE headers are going in this fall….with DEI titanium wrap. I drive the car about 1500 miles a year, so it should last many moons.
Race Director
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Bill, I saw that same episode. Knowing the hassle of R&Ring my first generation C5 Kooks headers, I decided 10° wasn't worth the effort. I honestly believe that I'd get way more bang for my buck with hood vents than header coatings. My opinion....
Le Mans Master
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I am with you 100% on the hood vents. Just can’t bring myself to cut them, lol.
Race Director
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