I don't know, but I'm sure there must be someone who could. I just dont know of one. You could try the tuning section. You could also try PMing @RonSSNova He may know of someone.

 

Yes there are remote tuners however, I have not used one to comfortably recommend one nor do I know if they would tune cars out of the country. Google searching LS remote tuner will turn up options and topics on various forums. I would select a tuner and discuss your goals, cam options, and required supporting modifications before you buy the cam.

 

That cam is mild enough that it might be tolerable without a tune, but IMO if you're going to go through the trouble to replace the cam you might as well upgrade to a cam that adds enough power to justify that trouble.

 

**“In the end, Mamomotorsport is going to make the camshaft for me:219 / 225 on a 114 LSA… lift a little over 0.600". Hopefully it will be okay. Of course, it can be tuned afterwards.Or do you think the cam should be different? I want power across the whole RPM range.”**

 

Most cams don't make low end power. Any cam that's worth installing will need a tune. There is a fair likelyhood it won't even START without a tune. Cams are primarily good for high end power. The only time I'd say, might as well throw a cam in is if you're already taking the front of the engine apart to do the harmonic balancer, oil pump, etc.

If you're looking for low end grunt, get long tube headers. Some intake manifolds have proved gains over the whole rpm range a fast 102, etc. However they are a terrible return on investment down low, and for a very stock car. You'd probably be better off with long tubes and a stall converter.

FWIW Long tubes also require a tune to really take advantage of them. Probably the stall converter too. Either way if you do much you need to plan on a tune.

 

A cam change can increase power across the entire power band. Granted the largest percentage gains are more easily gained in the upper RPM.

OE cams are designed to meet many goals which those of us modifying engines may not be concerned about.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...hp-22rwtq.html

 

Since you have an auto you probably have 2.73 gears or MAYBE 3.15s. If you could find a Z06 rear diff with 3.42s you'd notice a bit more acceleration in the range you desire. Add a set of long tube headers and you might decide a camshaft change is not needed for your driving style. Both items will require a tune. If you're tech savvy OR you have a mechanic friend who is also tech savvy maybe consider tuning it yourself. HP Tuners is an option. For headers, ARH, Kooks and LG are very good and on the upper end of pricing while Speed Engineering seem to be a good economical choice.

 

Stop trying to cut corners, you’re going to ruin your car. Get everything done at once or don’t do anything at all. Your going to have a 10,000 bill by the time your done, cam, rear gears, converter, and headers. If you don’t do the install yourself, your bill might be even higher. Hands down, you need a tune, but it’s your car, these are just recommendations, do what you want.

 

It technically can. But if you compare vs a tuned stock cam you're looking at sub 10hp gains under 4k even on the truckiest mild cams. Given the amount of work involved it is not the place to start looking for low end power.

Here's a video showing what you can expect from these types of cams. Keep in mine its a engine dyno without accessories so all the gains are slightly magnified vs what you'd see on a chassis dyno.

If you move to a more typical corvette cam you're typically look at giving up power under 3k.

 

I'm not going to disagree with Mamo's recommendations, he knows his stuff.

But I do wonder about "I want power across the whole RPM range." I'm guessing that translates to "I want more power but I'm not willing to shift to a lower gear to get it."

I have had a couple cars that required downshifting to get full power, and IMO shifting down one gear is a perfectly reasonable tradeoff to make. You end up with a car that's docile under normal conditions but very strong when you want power. It puzzles me that so many people are so uncomfortable with the idea of shifting that they'll give up tons of power in order to avoid it.

 

I think auto guys are stuck a lot more with this. Slow down shifts and a stock stall probably makes you want power as low as you can get. Or they just don't like revving the engine out. Too loud or like some people I've met, they think high revs will damage the engine. Its a bad tradeoff though. If you really want off idle power get a positive displacement blower or an appropriately sized turbo. FI will hit low in a way that NA never can.

 

Hello, I would like to ask if someone could give me some advice. I will be changing the camshaft and at the same time, based on recommendations, I would also like to replace the lifters.

Is it necessary to remove the cylinder heads?

Thank you.

 

For lifters, yes. Why though? Its not normally needed to do a cam. Springs and trunions. Maybe pushrods. All that is done with the heads on.

 

I was told that I need to replace the springs, titanium retainers, valve locks, spring seat locators, and new valve seals. I take that as a given. Then, the person who will be tuning my ECU also recommended that I replace the lifters and pushrods.

What do you think about that? I’d appreciate more opinions on whether it’s really necessary. If the cylinder heads have to come off, I’d prefer not to replace the lifters and would only swap the pushrods. Ideally, I’d like to know if it’s possible to change the lifters without removing the cylinder heads

 

No offense, why cut corners, you own a corvette and your modding the engine, is 3,000 to 4000 extra going to make you or brake you, heads, cam, intake manifold if you have the cash, lifters, push rods, rockers, timing chain, balancer, oil pump. Do it all, refresh that thing and enjoy it. Top end rebuild. Let’s go…

 

No offense, but I’d appreciate if I could get an answer to what I actually asked... Just because I didn’t write here that I’m not going to change the oil pump, timing set, crank damper, etc., doesn’t mean I won’t do it. I asked something else. If needed, I’ll repeat it: Is it possible to replace the lifters without removing the cylinder heads? Or is it enough if I just replace the pushrods?

 

Springs- yes. Most cams have more lift that requires new springs

Ti retainers- nice to have. Its lighter which is good, but no reason you can't reuse steel ones or get new steel ones.

Valve locks- nice to have. Cheap insurance I guess? Its unlikely you have one worn enough to worry.

Spring seat locators- Some have these as part of the valve seal, which you should replace. If you have a 2 part one, Meh. Probably not much money.

Valve seals- Almost certainly should do these. If you have relatively new ones its not like a cam requires new ones, but its a while you're in there deal.

rockers- Most likely your rockers are fine. Do the Trunions. However if you're paying labor to have someone put trunions in its probably cheaper to buy rocker with new trunions already in them.

Pushrods- Depends on the cam. If it has a new base circle you might need them. If you have a really aggressive cam with super high ramp rates you might want the hardened ones. Don't need them, but look at it as insurance. If you can't do the work, might as well. If you can, pushrods are easy to swap out later.

The lifters are under the head. Its not physically possible to get to them without removing the head. Well, other than maybe dropping one into the crankcase accidentally when you have the cam out

 

Thank you, that answer was great . If I replace everything except the lifters, do you think it will be fine? I really don’t want to take the heads off… and if it’s not absolutely necessary, I’d rather keep the original lifters. What’s your opinion on that?

 

I didn't replace mine when I did a cam. I'll get to them when I do heads. No sense in taking heads off unless there is actually a problem. Lifters+baskets+MLS gasket+labor probably going to add around a grand. If I were going to do it, I'd get some cheap heads to make it worthwhile. Or send yours off to get ported. Katech has a basic package for as low as $500.

 

Thank you.If you didn’t do it, then I won’t either it will make the job easier for me.