camshaft
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 31,976
Likes: 487
From: Guinness Its whats for B'fast JAWGA
CI 3-4-5-9 Veteran
Springs- yes. Most cams have more lift that requires new springs
Ti retainers- nice to have. Its lighter which is good, but no reason you can't reuse steel ones or get new steel ones.
Valve locks- nice to have. Cheap insurance I guess? Its unlikely you have one worn enough to worry.
Spring seat locators- Some have these as part of the valve seal, which you should replace. If you have a 2 part one, Meh. Probably not much money.
Valve seals- Almost certainly should do these. If you have relatively new ones its not like a cam requires new ones, but its a while you're in there deal.
rockers- Most likely your rockers are fine. Do the Trunions. However if you're paying labor to have someone put trunions in its probably cheaper to buy rocker with new trunions already in them.
Pushrods- Depends on the cam. If it has a new base circle you might need them. If you have a really aggressive cam with super high ramp rates you might want the hardened ones. Don't need them, but look at it as insurance. If you can't do the work, might as well. If you can, pushrods are easy to swap out later.
The lifters are under the head. Its not physically possible to get to them without removing the head. Well, other than maybe dropping one into the crankcase accidentally when you have the cam out
Ti retainers- nice to have. Its lighter which is good, but no reason you can't reuse steel ones or get new steel ones.
Valve locks- nice to have. Cheap insurance I guess? Its unlikely you have one worn enough to worry.
Spring seat locators- Some have these as part of the valve seal, which you should replace. If you have a 2 part one, Meh. Probably not much money.
Valve seals- Almost certainly should do these. If you have relatively new ones its not like a cam requires new ones, but its a while you're in there deal.
rockers- Most likely your rockers are fine. Do the Trunions. However if you're paying labor to have someone put trunions in its probably cheaper to buy rocker with new trunions already in them.
Pushrods- Depends on the cam. If it has a new base circle you might need them. If you have a really aggressive cam with super high ramp rates you might want the hardened ones. Don't need them, but look at it as insurance. If you can't do the work, might as well. If you can, pushrods are easy to swap out later.
The lifters are under the head. Its not physically possible to get to them without removing the head. Well, other than maybe dropping one into the crankcase accidentally when you have the cam out
Springs and titanium retainers are cam and use dependant. Weight of the retainer limits RPM but this is in combination with the other parts in the system. A beehive spring might have less mass and a smaller keeper than a dual spring with a larger keeper. So, the bee hive may be stable to a higher RPM than the Dual. However, the ramp rate of the cam lobe may dictate a higher spring pressure which may require a dual spring. IMO discusss what you need with the cam vendor and spring vendor if the two are not the same.
Pushrods should always be meassured when changing parts. Base circle can change between cams, further if you have the seats machined and/or heads decked the measurement changes. Lifters may not have the same cup height or required preload if they are changed. In an OE application the lifter preload range is wider which allows for some work without changing pushrods. An aftermarket performance cam really needs stiffer pushrods. Again, discuss needs with the cam vendor.
How to measure:
When ordering pushrods, tell the vendor how you measured, especially if you go with a limited travel lifter. If you used calipers measuring you're measuring tip to tip. Custom push rod companies may measure from another point on the pushrod.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 12,861
Likes: 4,662
Last edited by grinder11; Sep 6, 2025 at 08:33 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,988
Likes: 1,325
From: Des Plaines, Il
No need to change lifters with a roller cam setup when changing the cam, unless you suspect a problem with one or more of them. If it was a flat tapped cam, then the lifters need to be changed when changing the cam. They need to fall in love with each other, in other words, they must wear in to each other. The only way to change the lifters without pulling the heads that I know of would be if you have the engine removed and turned the engine upside down. With the cam removed you could probably change them. I've never tried this, and the crankshaft may be in the way, too, though I doubt it.....
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 31,976
Likes: 487
From: Guinness Its whats for B'fast JAWGA
CI 3-4-5-9 Veteran
You can change a cam in a LS without dropping a lifter using dowel rods
I am in the camp of changing the lifter but if the lifter is healthy and the cam isn't overly aggressive the stock lifter can work for many.
I am in the camp of changing the lifter but if the lifter is healthy and the cam isn't overly aggressive the stock lifter can work for many.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 450
Likes: 48
Hi everyone, I’ve decided to replace my camshaft and I’m looking for advice on what parts and tools I’ll need for the job so I don’t forget anything. I’d also appreciate any tips or recommendations on what should be replaced or checked during the swap. I’d like to know if anyone here has experience with this specific camshaft and whether you think it’s the right choice. The seller told me that I don’t need to replace the torque converter or reprogram the ECU. My car is a 2001 Corvette C5, 56,000 miles, automatic transmission, base model. My goal is to increase performance, mainly for street driving at low to mid RPMs. The car is currently stock with no modifications. In the future, I plan to upgrade the rear differential, install long-tube headers, and get the car tuned. I’m starting with this camshaft, which was recommended to me by Summit Racing: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-54-103-11 Do you think this is the right choice, or is there something better you’d recommend? Thanks!
Hey Sir... (or ma'am...???)
I have tried to read through all the replies. I have done the head\cam change more than 20 times... between my C5s and working on many friend's c5s (in the ATL area...). I am actually doing my latest C5 ZO6 this weekend...
Your C5 has either a 2:73.1 or 3:15.1 rear axle ratio. Hopefully in your glove box there is a code that designates your axle ratio. (GU2 Axle, Rear, 2.73 Ratio OR G90 Axle, Rear, 3.15 Ratio).
I have done this already for an auto.. your greatest seat of the pants improvement is the rear diff axle ratio change. Since you said your C5 is a "base model" I am assuming 2.73 rear gears.
Do this...
- Find and install a good used 3.42 (3 ribbed) rear differential
- OR find a 3.42 (3ribbed) rear diff that you can have rebuilt
- NO MATTER WHICH... your PCM will have to be reprogrammed to support the different RPM shift point rpms. and speedo changes. (THIS IS AN ABSOLUTE, YOU CANNOT SKIP THIS...)
- Do long tube headers
- Do some high flow air box
- ALL of the above can be tuned at the same time... and should be!
It is all about fun at full throttle!!! (and not breaking the bank...)
Last edited by Pipedream; Sep 4, 2025 at 09:05 AM.
